magicmat

just be careful, i nearly welded up a tool, but then it came free, that article i posted before is very good and tells you how to crack the engine,(altho it does say use a tool) you just need to keep the gap equal around the casing, be careful with wedges, you could heat the casing that holds the main bearing to expand it and release the crank? dont expose the main bearing to direct heat or you will burn all the lubrication away, have you got the flywheel off yet? cos that above doesnt really apply till you have. Mat

all this semi and synthetic oil, are you all talking about pre-mix oil, or the gearbox oil as mentioned earlier, im guessing premix? Mat

Im recently new to the sport, (still building bike) 1) does the 06 GG have a digital display? i saw them on some 06's in a shop, looks very cool 2) what cc should people use? i know what if your under 16 and to compete then you cant have more than a 200cc. but im 21, and 12 stone, and very comfortable on bikes. would the likes of a 280 say be too powerful for my skill? i handled a my bike (250cc) before i stripped it well enough, and was comfortable, is it a matter of perference OR are 125's still really good on power...with weight etc.. just wondered what made people buy different sizes?? Mat

im changing the mains on my 1993 GG at present, and there are galleries that allow oil to go behind the main bearing and lubricate it, using the house steam cleaner to clean my casings before the new bearings go in !!

couldnt adding more weight be a bad thing?? as you are affecting the balance, between the flywheel and the counterweight, (yes i know the counter weight is alot smaller/ lighter anyway, but are you not putting extra strain on your main bearings heading for an earlier bottom end rebuild? Are these a larger problem with them?

this is mad, dont know whos right,... sounds like a good idea, but then starting the bike?. well if it works !!

thing is, you have to fill the tank with water when you weld, my dad knows a guy who welded a tank without water in, and it blew up in his face, so best to fill up the water to the weld area. but job done, excellent

I was reading an article on how to do these for a motorcorss http://www.ericgorr.com/twostktech/2techlowrebuild.htm excellent guy and article, anyway,... im completely rebuilding a 1993 GG engine, and the whole gearbox and every thing stayed in the right hand casing, as it would with the motorcross. which is the opposite to the flywheel side?? ....its late... ..but i removed the flywheel and split the left hand casing to get me to it, i got my flywheel puller from <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central>. could give them a phone? Mat

im rebuilding a 1993 250 engine, should i use two base gaskets to make sure this problem doesnt develop ? or just wait and see?? How could you tell? the engine encredibly hot? or is it about staying hot after you've killed the engine?? Cheers

Excellent, Cheers Chris, had a really good read of the other site, the bottem end rebuild article wasvery helpful, and yes you do get the pin in the kit, but i dont have the kit yet on order from GasGas BUT -i have the magneto back after its rewire!!

What, so that kit is to actually make the flywheel heavier ?? to make for smoother power delivery ??

there seems to be a widespread opinon, its best not to leave it ticking over as said above, unless your bedding in cams in a car engine, where you need to, i just got this off the erik gorr website, (recently shown to me seems to know his stuff) http://www.ericgorr.com/twostktech/twotopw....html#10%20TIPS 10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize. ive also heard that you should run the engine for 5mins x 3 10mins x3 15mins x 3 allowing it to completely cool, and dropping the oil. from these, i would say thats its best to drive the bike around as said by ERIC and NOT LABOUR the engine, (making it work to do hills and stuff) that should do you,....im also researching this and engine building as im rebuilding an engine,..(see other topic) Have fun

thats very good advice ! i bought my little bro a mini moto,...cheap air cooled chinese things...ANYWAY **** got in the airfilter, and water and through the whole engine, Result water kept mixing inside the engine and it wouldnt start, So after a complete strip down and rebuild (while breaking piston ring ) It works 1st pull !! So yes Always keep airfilter and carb clean !! FOR ANYTHING !

yeah, as said, i will go for the conrod kit, so now i am expecting the crank 'pin' ? to be there as well. i shall stop moaning now, the initial cos was just over

hmm. had a chat with my old man, hes a fabricator/welder/engineer dude, And he recons that we could true the crank in the lathe using D.T.I's as we have them from aligning motors and gearboxs in heavy machinary etc etc. But it will take alot of checking and messing around to get it right. and rotating the mass on the crank pin? not the ends of the crank. I couldnt use a lazer, i was just beeing doopy, as im doing my finals at uni and brain is like s sponge I had a good read of that website, very good info, he definately knows what hes on about, i will seek costs of having it professionally done but if costs too great ill enlist the old man. If i was to do it, the problem i would encur is at present i dont know the tolereances between the bearing (or thrush washers) to the crank. hmmmmmmm.... Looks like the rod kit will be a sound investment, but the connecting rod does need to be changed within MX bikes which he talks about but i dont know if it is as true for trials. i will have a chat with the shop and find some engineering firms,....unseen costs are starting to rise ... The advice is greatly appreciated (printing off the guide !!)

GasGasser told me that he has now fixed the problem apparently gasgas told him to use an expanding/flexible (something gasket) gasket sealer, as aparrantly the head holds just about all of the compression in the chamber and he says he hasnt noticed a much of a difference, nice cheap and easy fix, which ill remember !

Hey, thanks for the reply, i took the engine to the shop, and they said the bearing was gone, and they would get one in, thing is instead of being

Hello, i need just alittle advice, apart from later for torque settings but ill try and get that infor out of <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central> Can i redirect you to the LAST two posts of this link http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6244 sorry to play silly buggers Mat

but then i dont potentialy get the dowel, which is like having the crank ground, i dont know if you even get this 'dowel' with the kit !!! i want this bike to last 3-4 years so will the bearing be enough? or go for the kit, Cheers

hey, ive ordered all the parts now, -new piston -bore replate -main bearings -crank seals -little end -Gasket kit -Manifold rubber (mine split) -Magneto rewire -and thermostat (as someone wired the radiator to always be on, so guessing thats the prob -BUT the big end, the guy at <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central> wasnt sure if i could buy the big end by its self, said i may have to get a conrod kit cost

i way quoted by the guys at GASGAS UK,

I learnt to ride at BUMPY !! when i was little altho apparently is changed abit now. But im only 20 so it was only around 10years ago im in the same boat as you too. My dad bought a number of cheap bikes that broke. and breack, shame fianances arnt fantastic. gone from 179 sherpa, to a 1983 MH349....to a 1993 Gasser in a box !! lol...but working on that, intend to get my self over to bumpy when its finished. which hopefully should be for the start of the summer. Good luck with the bike, and have fun in the trials world. Mat

heres a wiring diagram m8 http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Elec...ing-ducati.html trying to get my 93 gasser out of the box too, and this site is really help full found loads of info there !! Mat

hey, i got an email from the guys at <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central> (who were selling the shock on ebay) and they told me, the gasgas shock cant be rebuilt.

WOW !!.... ... the raga is mad.... and the hebo one...well now im in a real bloody sticky choice.. ...