windlestone

i saw something similar on a sherco recently you could stick your riding number on it but the owner thought it was a drinks bottle

Thanks for all the suggestions and offers of help lads. it was much appreciated and needed. Now i have tried pushing fluid into system with the syringe and i have tried drawing fluid out with the syringe. I took the bleed screw out completely and modified an extended bleed screw on the lathe. this meant the bleed screw was open at all times but threads were perfectly sealed. i still could not push/pull fluid past master cylinder. I ordered a new master cylinder and banjo bolt washers and a new bleed screw oh and a new adjusting rod for base of master. by the way a lot of the time master has been disconnected from frame and rear brake rod so i presumed master was in a position to let fluid leave/enter. I hung bike from garage roof by the front wheel and removed rear wheel. I stripped rear caliper and took pistons out. then filled caliper and put pistons back only half way. Reassembled caliper blew out hose from master cylinder to rear caliper with an air line then connected rear caliper but left it to hang. Put wooden wedges in against pistons to stop them extending too far. Connected rear hose to master cylinder then connected master cyl to brake fluid reservoir. By the way i blew out reservoir nad hose. Connected syinge to caliper bleed screw and back filled system up to reservoir. Lots and lots of air coming through to reservoir. refilled syringe 4 times then no more air bubbles. However if i closed bleed screw off and drew back into syringe i was getting air coming in through hose/bleeder connection to syringe even whith wire on connection so i presumed i was still pushing some air into system. However i kept bleeding system first at bleed screw then caliper hose then highest point master cylinder. after probably 20 times of this process i started to get a pedal. No air at bleed nipple slight air at caliper and slight air at master cylinder. Kept bleeding in same order and topping up reservoir and eventually got rear wheel to lock up. Still have lots of pedal travel which i can't seem to cure. I have new pads and the more i bleed now i get no air and still no difference to pedal travel. So at least i'm fixed. Now i can't sleep trying to figure out how the master cylinder could have become damaged whilst i was bleeding or forcing fluid into systeem. Changing the master did the trick but the old system was working perfectly apart from one sticking caliper piston. Thanks again lads.

i still have no rear brake. I have blown everything out with compressed air. filled caliper before assembly then filled hoses from caliper to master cylinder.With a syringe i cannot "backfill" system past master cylinder. i've had bike hanging from front wheel and bled system and i've hung bike by rear wheel and bled system. still nowt. Had a small amount of movement at caliper pistons today but then it disappeared. One minute the hoses are bleeding fluid and air then they stop. Sometimes i can backfill the hose from the caliper bleed nipple to master cylinder then the next minute i can't. i'm becoming obsessed with fixing it. i should just take it to my dealer but it's getting right under my skin now.Haven't took swing arm off but had bike hanging by front wheel with master cylinder, header tank and caliper all diconnected from frame and still no joy!

white bros usually keep them in

another day and still no brake at pedal. can't understand logic of swinging arm coming off cos hoses will still need to be connected and caliper. i've had bike upside down and sideways and i'm sick of it now!

hope i can keep the forks in lads they look ok not riding now glen thanks for offer of help. niaevely i assumed pipe inside swinging arm would run straight through. i'll try high vacuum pump then if no good out with swinging arm. i'll leave chain tensioner well alone... heard they are a nightmare. think i'll go back to 348 mont after this

still no pedal. got a syringe and hose today. syringe is about 4" long and 1" in diameter. the clear hose or tube is an excellent fit on syringe and extremely tight on bleed screw. Pulling syringe plunger out with or without fluid in tube did bring a few spits of fluid and what seemed to be a fair amount of air into tube. as soon as i shut off nipple and started again with syringe it was like being back at square 1. Pushing plunger the other way did not make any impression at all.While all of this was going on my fluid level did not drop??? I did a very basic air test on caliper and air was coming through bleed nipple hole. i removed the exhaust, yes exhaust then removed the master cylinder. did an air test on hoses and they appear clear. Emptied reservoir and feed pipe air tested fine too. Took master cylinder apart and to be honest i'm a bit baffled as to how it works. anyway it has one spring, one central rod with two seals on it and a central groove.The central groove does not appear to line up with inlet or outlet? the rear seal is tapered so the only conclusion i could draw was that the rear seal must collapse under pressure to allow fluid to circulate. Put a high vacuum pump on to bleed nipple and it is drawing fluid and air. i've had enough for today so i'll go back to it tomorrow. thanks again for all the help it,s much needed and appreciated

cheers charlie I may seem a bit thick here but when do you close bleed nipple? or is it a bit of trial and error just keep trying pedal till i get one?

thanks a lot lads. i had a seized piston so had to strip the caliper. now i have two free pistons and no brake pedal! Just seems to be pumping air. i had to leave it tonight but will have to sort it tomorrow. The fluid level is not moving with cap on or off and no fluid is coming through banjo bolt if i disconnect it from caliper. Any ideas would again be appreciated

i'm trying to fit new rear pads. the pistons in the rear caliper will not return far enough to allow new pads in let alone pads and disc. any suggestions guys?

anyone got any suggestions where i might get a decent petrol can from. the plastic green and red ones are hopeless. keep leaking and the spout is never at the right angle especially in the middle of a trial when it's raining

get Dad to go over scotswood bridge and drive along towards blaydon macdonalds. go up the new road. second exit from roundabout and follow that road all the way. U will go over roundabouts and by pass ryton and crawcrook and prudhoe. you will go along prudhoe industrial estate and pass Thompsons of prudhoe wagon depot. At the end of the ind.estate there is a speed camera and a large roundabout with a badger in the hill on the left. go straight over roundabout and up hill past finnigans paint factory. at the top of the hill you will pass a garden centre on the right and the road goes down into mickley. There is a shop/cafe on the left and you need to turn right. Sign post says cherryburn. its down there. Hope to see u there

i saw advertised in t&mx the chance to watch at sheffield from the riders area. this was at a cost of

thanks for reply ronm you were spot on with your diagnosis. took motor off and ran it with a 12v supply. motor did not run but would if you flicked it. replaced motor and it works perfectly. one interesting thing though. uk dealer quoted

nigel u sure look like Dougie in your avatar

spoke to a lad at the trial on sunday who had a hydraulic clutch mod catrried out and he thought it was great. clutch felt much lighter and no snatch

04 gas gas 250 pro the fan motor has stopped cutting in. with engine running you can flick the blades and the fan will run ok. but it will not cut in by itself. everything looks ok i would appreciate any suggestions

I've seen trees advertised "needles don't drop" but never seem to mention branches

thanks for all the suggestions lads. Been surviving on tongue,cold shoulder and lettuce alone sandwiches all week SHE has just gone and ordered a chastity belt off the internet. Reckons she had to go for the one with the reinforced backend ? When it arrives she takes it into MY garage and uses My Jizer and MY power washer to remove the traffic film. Anyway she wore it last night and i Solvol'ed it while she was asleep. Bit of a bugger staying awake till she turned over. Anyhow it's know looking quite " trick " it.s all shiney and has purple anodized hinge covers. If i can get in in half i'll be able to make a couple of sump shields only trouble is because of her humongous backside my Pro would be lost inside one. The conclusion is SWM stands for Sumpshield What'lle only fit a Montesa

i'm eating humble pie at the moment

thinking about the scottish and who will get in etc. i started thinking about the first time i spectated and i saw bernie schrieber riding an swm. I thought i would remind myself what the swm looked like i can remember a nice yellow tank and black engine. So i type swm into the search engine and what do i get? pages of single white men all looking for similar. Just then the lady of the house comes in and i start to panick. i can't clear the screen fast enough. Now she thinks i'm gay and looking for rent boys! she reckons i'm doubly guilty cos of my frantic efforts to clear the screen before she could see it. Any suggestions on how to get back in the good books would be appreciated.

I reckon the bike doesn't matter. if you can't keep your feet up your knackered. Thats what i like about trials you can spend all the money in the world on bikes and kit but you will always find the person with the most ability will win.

Oops the little detail i failed to mention is the u.k. DVD for maintenance sounds excellent. thanks for your replies

when purchasing a new gas gas everyone i speak to seems to receive different equipment. One person received the bike and lights others have recieved a handbook, tool kit and bum bag. Anyone know exactly what you should get. I always have and will continue to support my local dealer but some guys buying imports seem to get a lot more kit than guys purchasing from a dealer.

when i first rode my 02 250 pro if i wheelied then put down the front end the plastic front brake disc cover chattered like crazy. noise got faster/louder when revving. it could sound like pinking. just a thought coz i'm puzzled why you would have two carb's producing the same fault.