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brian h

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  1. Wonderfull pics Brian H
  2. Try www.abebooks.com Max Kings magnificent books on Trials Riding (Temple Press) these fine books tell the story of how it all began and how to get into Trials - they are really history books on todays Trials scene. Max was a very respected journalist, Radio broadcaster and accomplished Trials Rider from Dorset, I like Big John have most of the books on this subject, but none to sell. Sammy Miller has Videos on Trials as well as Duke Marketing on the IOM.also check out the book dealers on the web. Hope this helps Brian H
  3. Woody, I have to agree, anything second hand in the ignition line over 30 yrs old is a gamble indeed. It would seem that the Spanish repair of both the coil and stator may be the only solution, however, it is a costly exercise to ship parts to Spain from N.Z. for repair. I was hoping someone may have done a ignition upgrade on the 244 Ossa MAR utilising an ignition sysytem from the new breed of Trials bikes. Brian H
  4. Thanks for the inputs guys, The Sherco ignition system sounds worth looking into. I do not believe any PVL system is available for Ossa MARs unfortunately, all suggestions are welcome to enable me to get this bike going reliably once more. Athough I am not completely confident yet - I may have a serviceable stator, however, I believe the HT coil is defective and may be the reason for no sparks. Does anyone know if there is another HT coil with the similar connections on the market that will suit the Mk1 Ossa MAR ?? Thanks Brian H
  5. Can anyone tell me if there is an alternative solid state ignition system on the market that wil fit straight into a 1973 Mk1 Ossa MAR to replace the troublesome Motoplat system ? I am aware I can get my Stator and HT Coil repaired in Spain, however, I am interested to know where I can obtain Mk1 Ossa MAR ignition parts ?? Thanks Brian H
  6. OTF - I am also an OTF too!! I would recommend you stay with Bing - fit a new slide , needle and jet (from Dave Renham) and set the ignition to 3.75 BTDC this setting was provided by SHM on one of his trips this way several years ago, I can assure you my engine runs smooth and very responsive. I am pleased I decided to stay with Bing, rather than spend up large on a Dell Orto or Mikuni - after all I believe Mart used Bings on his works Bultacos. Brian H
  7. Its the crankcase that needs to breath, the last two methods you mention both work fine, a breather tube stub can easily be fitted to the bung cap (1 inch long X 3/16 I/D x 1/4 O/D tube - alloy/brass) on top of the crankcae, you then fit a 1/4 I/D plastic tube long enough to tuck under tank, the second option is to fit a similar size breather tube to the either rocker cover, the plastic tube is then fitted and the much shorter tube again tucked under the tank - both methods work fine, I favour the first option being closer to the crankcase. Hope this helps Brian H
  8. There are three essential components to an engine running properly to respond to throttle demands thru the rev range, viz, sound mechanical Engine condition, correct ignition and clean carburation - pretty much in that order. Remember Triumph Works riders rode Cubs with Amal carburettors, as did hundreds of us who were Clubmen - I would personally recommend the following checks before swapping carburettors. 1. Compression is good, know what camshaft is fitted, correct valve clearances, sound mechanical engine ? 2. Ignition timing is correct BTDC, and ignition source reliable, viz, solid state, battery, or energy transfer, correct spark plug ? 3. Carburettor fitted correctly with no air leaks, correct needle and needle jet not worn, needle clip set in middle groove, mixture adjustment 1 1/2 turns out, good slide and aircleaner ?. The first task is to ensure the above list checkout OK, as they all add up to provide the good throttle control required to get the best from a four stroke Trials engine. You can experiment with a smaller throttle slide cutaway, and also remove the springs in the auto ignition advance unit (if you have points on the RH side cover) Cubs experienced flat spots and spit backs also due to wear in the auto advance assembly, the fix was to lock it up which produced good results. Hope this helps you get it sorted Brian H
  9. Whilst this thread belongs to the Alta Suzuki Trials motorcycle, I am saddened to read the decision that Big John has reached in regard to providing Classic period pics on TC for publishinh on this site (I should add I totally support his reasons and the decision he reached). Is there anyway I can contact Big John by email, phone. FAX, other ? Brian H
  10. Big John, How come - no more of your nostalic Trials pics - have I missed something here - I cannot believe what I have just read - I would like to know how this situation has come about ??. Brian H
  11. I have experience with a 12V dry cell battery "total loss" ignition system on a Triumph Cub - works OK, I cannot recall the Ampere Hr rating, short circuit Trials are usually no problem in time duration, I would not like to risk any battery holding out on a C15 on a long Trial unless you have a charged second battery available along the way. This system is possibly the least expensive method, however there are a couple of reliable solid state systems available which would cost more but very reliable and be the preferred option to check out. The original C15T Lucas Energy Transfer system worked from new, however, after some distributor / ign system / engine wear took place, breakdown of the alternator stator in oil etc, the spark quickly dissappeared, forcing many to convert into battery / coil ignition until the later solid state ign development. If you choose to go the total loss ign system way, various sizes of Japanese 12V dry cell batteries are normally available from battery suppliers, choose the biggest capacity Ampere hour battery you can buy that will fit the space available on you bike. The C15 would be very similar to the Cub in the ignition department I would suspect. Standard 12V HT coils for Japanese bikes are normally available (smaller and lighter than standard car ign) the only other item is an ign switch - and remember to use it !! Brian H
  12. Nice to see the Norton 500T on this site, I helped restore this 1951 model some years ago, bought as a basket case from the UK in the 1980's, many parts were missing which required making a replica copy of the alloy cylinder barrel of the period, making a pattern, casting the alloy barrel, turning the steel liner, oil holes, and maching including the fins, then shotpeening to replicate a cast alloy appearance, making pushrods, pushrod tubes, exhaust nut, carb stub, forged footrests, wheel hub parts, etc. All machining was done in a home workshop on a centre lathe and mill. I recall the flywheels weighed 22 pounds ! I was rewarded many times having rode it successfully in NZ Trials in the Classic Clubman classes. The alloy tank was made by a local panel beater to a series of sectional templates taken from another 500T at that time, in all, a truly great British Trials bike of the period - had Norton built a swing arm frame in the early 1950,s, Trials results could have been very different for Norton. Jeff Smith and Johnny Draper rode 500T models and later left Norton to go to BSA and the Gold Star. I am always pleased to see the 500T still being ridden in our Classic Trials events - it brings back a lot of memories both in the building / restoration and the enjoyment of riding a powerfull single of the 1950's. Brian H
  13. A long held view on spitback When the 149 Terrier and 199 Cub appeared in 1954/55, they both lacked flywheel weight, spitback was common place aided by the Lucas distributor. Subsequent models had heavier flywheels, points in the side cover being an improvement, however, there has always been a flywheel weight shortfall - the flywheel balance factor was too high - principally designed to be a peppy little four stroke (which it was) and did not like ultra low rpm Trials work, locking up the ignition advance / retard mechanism helped. I built a Triumph 149 Terrier Trials model some 25 odd years ago replicating a factory model built by my mentor Triumph teamster Jim Alves (Refer Don Morley's book on British Trials Motorcycles) which I still own. I use a total loss 12V battery ignition and removed the Lucas RM13 Alternator / Rotor, and designed a third flywheel to take the place of the Alternator / Rotor inside the primary case which has produced amazing low rpm / accel results. I rode Trials Cubs in the 1960s and P65 events in NZ - I still believe a Cub has to be ridden with a bit of determination and use the tap!! - it has to be this way to make up for only 199cc - the spitback can be helped by modern carburation and ignition, however, its a design shortcoming from the days when mototorcycle manufactures simply converted a road motorcycles for Trials / Scrambles use often with very poor results. My advice - change your riding technique, the Cub likes a bit of stick !! Brian H
  14. After a second look at the Yorks classic trials website covering the Pre 65 Scottish pics (I really appreciate this photo coverage service being down under) On one pic I noticed the Big John Matchless has a modified primary cover which would indicate the shock absorber spring is removed / changes to the chain drive, the result being a slimmer / reliable good primary gearing and a neat primary drive. I have not noticed this mod previously and am interested in what constitutes the primary drive which looks like a major improvement as well as reducing engine width. Although I have never owned a trials Matchless during the classic period, I have always maintained a great interest for the AJS and Matchless models and would be interested to ask Big John for e technical view of his primary side mod. Brian H
  15. Hi, I agree with Big John - may I also say the Commerford Cub has a very special place in the Triumph Cub Trials history - can I suggest you restore it to its former glory if you can afford it - and preserve a part of Triumph history - all to many great Trials motor cycles have been lost for ever. Regards Brian H
  16. Gentlemen, Thanks for the info Bultaco staunchions info, My own 1977 325T has good forks staunchions, however I am trying to help a mate. I agree the internet sources are probably the best source to follow up - especially from California. Can anyone tell me if the Alpina forks have identical internal components to the Sherpa T - I am assuming they are all interchangeable and 35 mm o/dia. Thanks Brian h
  17. Anyone know any 35mm diameter replacement fork staunchions for 325 Sherpa T circa 1977 - 78. Many Sherpa T forks are severely corroded, I am interested to know if anyone has found a replacement pair of new staunchions from another Trials bike make that would do the job ? Fork staunchions slighly increased in diameter could be accomodated in the Sherpa fork yolks. As an alternative option, has anyone ground existing corroded Sherpa T fork staunchions, re chromed and stress relieved, etc ? Brian H
 
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