lotus54

As much as I'd like to see this bike in production, I think it is a long way away, unless lots of money suddenly shoed up. My understanding is only one was built- if it ran it almost certainly was just the trials engine. It was sitting I the lobby of the factory. Now that they joined with GasGas, I have not heard any more.

I would pay that. Where? How about the software?

My method for 2014 Explorer 280 Cold: Get a place where I can stand left foot high. Neutral Key on Push kill button a couple of seconds Take up slack in kicker NO Throttle! Give a good hard kick ( use weight) It will usually start two- three kicks. Hot: No throttle Good strong kick. Almost always first kick, Fuel/oil Chevron premium (ethonal around here) Motorex full synth 100:1 Dirty plug and a lot harder to start. I run one hotter step plug for this weather (havnt had It in summer yet) Mark

I don't know much about DI (I like the idea, but waiting to see how they work for motorcycle). But regular FI for a 2-stroke works excellent. Current draw for the fuel pump can be pretty low (not that high pressure for non-DI), easy to generate the power. Reliability so far has been excellent, with I think the weak point being connectors. If they are not really good, sealed connectors (full of silicone grease) then problem is likely to show up there I think. currents for sensors are very low, so it doesn't take much resistance to mess if all up. I ride in the mud/rain/wet all the time (rains here from time to time) and the bike runs flawlessly. Never a hiccup. Since they kept the weight super low (163 lbs) there isn't a regular battery. THat means sort of a trick to start. They use a very small batt to chart up a condenser, that powers the injection. Plus it wants a healthy kick. A bit more weight for a proper battery would solve that I think- but it is not an issue for me. I have not measured the current draw for the fuel pump, but I'll bet it is less than the headlamp. I certainly understand all the comments and many I agree with. But the bike is not more expensive than comparable bikes, weighs no more, very reliable and runs perfectly all the time. Idles perfectly from cold, never need to adjust anything and runs really clean. Now...what happens if a component flakes out on a ride? I'm screwed. But I heard all these things when CDI was being introduced (interestingly, the Spanish were among the first to make it work). Now who still uses points? Is FI ready for dirt? I'd say a qualified yes. BUT not every company has it quite down yet, so I'd be careful whet I'd buy. (That from a guy that bought a bike sight unseen, ordering the first 2024 in the country). I like new ideas and I'm willing to try them. I bought a Smart Carb for my KTM (took a bit of fettling, but worked great when all done), I'm buying. A Clake 2 dual system for my OSSA (we will see if it works) So...take anything I say win a grain of salt. But if it doesn't work, I'll certainly say so. Now, I'm almost certainly setting myself up for a breakdown way up in the mountains with my big talk! Mark

Great info on the new easy start! My 2014 starts easily, unless I give it a half hearted kick.

Did the gear lever have return 'spring' before installing the gearbox? Since you are supposed to have it I gear before removing, I assume it should be in gear before reinstalling? Sounds like something slipped out a bit on a shaft to me- but I've never had one of those gearboxes out. So just guessing. Mark

Sorry, sparking plug. I found the stock one ran a bit cold here when doing lots of idling/low speed. I recall the software/cable a lot less than that, but I'll have to find the quote I got. I do know it was way more than I want to spend on a bike still under warranty! Either getting or writing the software would be rather a challenge I think- but such things have been done before. I have a Lotus Elan that I use an application that an enthusiast wrote for the software- but really just reads what is sent. And I'll bet the info was easier to get. Heck, I still can't even get a wiring schematic! But certainly keep us posted on how you do. Mark

I think certainly get the new map and get the TPS set. Doing anything before that seems a bit pointless. Certainly no running issues on my 2014, but it does like a little hotter plug for around here in the cold and wet. I priced the factory software/cables- they are quite expensive. I would buy them if resonably priced- even though I have had no use to adjust anything yet (about 60 hours) Where are you located?

Yes, a plain bearing. I really doubt you can find them anywhere else, and not likely the pins. maybe the seals. If you do, post it up.

Oh. I don't think there is room... Unless the pins are smaller And/or swingarm bored out. Not sure either is a good idea.

The OSSA swingarm/linkage doesn't have 'regular' bearings. They are bushings. Are you sure they are bad? I doubt you can get them anywhere but a dealer. The prices I saw were not out of sight, but not cheap. http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_66&products_id=2254

Here is the part number for the KTM plug kit KTM Wash cap set 81212016000 $17 US list

So it looks like to replace that, you need to pull the engine? I don't even see that filter listed in the parts manual.

Is that a fuel filter there? I don't see one in the parts diagram and I wondered if they use one or not.

I found a KTM kit that includes a plug that snaps into the bike side connector and a nice rubber tube seal that goes over the one that is with the tank. Super easy and will ensure stuff stays clean. I'll post up part number- my KTM dealer knew exactly what I needed (didn't even need to look it up) and had it on the shelf (PA Power, Port Angeles)

Here is what I got from a guy that pulled his. (From ossaform.com) http://ossaforum.com/index.php?topic=27.0 #1 - if you are pulling the tranny - IT MUST BE IN GEAR. Otherwise something very bad will happen. Not sure what, but everybody says this. #2 - when removing the tranny make sure to remove the clutch fixer nut. This is NOT listed in the PDF from OSSA Canada. The nut is a LEFT HAND THREAD and is found inside the clutch housing. You have to hold the opposite side of the clutch fixer rod, by inserting a torx in the opposite side of the engine (ever wonder what that little breather hose is just ahead of the engine chain sprocket? it allows air to escape from the plunger of the clutch, but also allows you to insert a torx to hold the clutch fixer rod) #3 - when pulling the clutch cover a thrust washer over the kick start will pop off and get inside the engine. If you are removing the tranny - no big deal. But if you are just removing the clutch, its best to lean the bike way over towards you so it falls on the ground, and not in the engine. #3b - the clutch salve cylinder thrust bearing and washer will probably fall off too. #4 - if you do anything to the tranny you will probably have to adjust the gear selector "shift spring regulator". The GasGas clutch video shows how to do this:

Here is the easy start on my 2014 And all the stuff behind the headlamp, no way to fit this there.

I understand Lewisport is carrying them. Maybe give them a call? Idle on mine seems low, but it never, ever dies.

It is darn crowded behind the headlamp- the Easystart on mine looks larger than your pic. I'll take a pic of it, it is probably 3" deep

My 2-stroke barely smokes at all. It runs very, very clean. 100:1 oil ratio,semi direct EFI...almost no smoke at all. I can't handle being behind a rich 4-stroke either. Still prefer the 2-stoke. Mark

The easy start on my. 2014 is much larger. What did you use to plug the fuel quick disconnect to keep it filling with dirt? I was thinking if sourcing another to use as a 'dummy' that would be plugged off. I pulled the subframe/tank from my yesterday- yes, only. A few minutes. The existing cables look long enough I could maybe put the Easystart on the handlebar mount or something.

I'm doing the same thing. Resurrecting a TLR- for now I won't bother with lights etc- later I want to add lightweight lights etc. Reading the schematic from the manual I see it as follows. The white has a coil in the alternator, it say it is the lighting coil- although i havnt gone through the diagram to verify I'm correct. It goes to a regulator (but no rectifier). Looks a bit strange the way it is going to the earth side of the headlamp bulb...so maybe I full of it, I don't see where leaving it open would be an issue, no circuit- no current flow. BUT maybe there is something I'm not seeing (MaxBikes post above leads me to believe I'm right). Yellow and Pink wires go to the regulator/rectifier. This runs DC stuff. Again, I don't see where leaving it open will hurt anything. Open= no circuit= no current. Black goes to the CDI unit. That's it from the alternator. BUT there are two more wires that come from that area- the pulse generator (triggers the CDI) (green/white and blue/yellow)- they change colours. Those certainly need to be connected to the CDI And like mentioned the black/white is grounded to kill the engine. Sure seems the way to go from what I see. If I'm wrong, please correct me- mine runs fine like this now- but I have not tested to see that any damage was not done. Again, I don't see why it would. Mark

Nothing scary, just keeping 'in the lines' and not loosing balance.

The 2014 is different, the box under the seat does it all (so I understand). Guess I'll have to see where it could be located if I ever do it. I'm not sure where they put it in the 2014 TR model. The rather high cost of the plastic is the issue after that! Be nice to find some used stuff, but probably not very likely, Isn't the stock lower' fuel cap,glued in on the Explorer? Maybe it is just sealer I see...

Mine doesn't see to start well without it. But I'll give it a go and see how it is. Was there anyplace to put it if you want to install the Easystart? (I think they changed it for 2014 also, it is energized with the kill button)