lotus54

It is darn crowded behind the headlamp- the Easystart on mine looks larger than your pic. I'll take a pic of it, it is probably 3" deep

My 2-stroke barely smokes at all. It runs very, very clean. 100:1 oil ratio,semi direct EFI...almost no smoke at all. I can't handle being behind a rich 4-stroke either. Still prefer the 2-stoke. Mark

The easy start on my. 2014 is much larger. What did you use to plug the fuel quick disconnect to keep it filling with dirt? I was thinking if sourcing another to use as a 'dummy' that would be plugged off. I pulled the subframe/tank from my yesterday- yes, only. A few minutes. The existing cables look long enough I could maybe put the Easystart on the handlebar mount or something.

I'm doing the same thing. Resurrecting a TLR- for now I won't bother with lights etc- later I want to add lightweight lights etc. Reading the schematic from the manual I see it as follows. The white has a coil in the alternator, it say it is the lighting coil- although i havnt gone through the diagram to verify I'm correct. It goes to a regulator (but no rectifier). Looks a bit strange the way it is going to the earth side of the headlamp bulb...so maybe I full of it, I don't see where leaving it open would be an issue, no circuit- no current flow. BUT maybe there is something I'm not seeing (MaxBikes post above leads me to believe I'm right). Yellow and Pink wires go to the regulator/rectifier. This runs DC stuff. Again, I don't see where leaving it open will hurt anything. Open= no circuit= no current. Black goes to the CDI unit. That's it from the alternator. BUT there are two more wires that come from that area- the pulse generator (triggers the CDI) (green/white and blue/yellow)- they change colours. Those certainly need to be connected to the CDI And like mentioned the black/white is grounded to kill the engine. Sure seems the way to go from what I see. If I'm wrong, please correct me- mine runs fine like this now- but I have not tested to see that any damage was not done. Again, I don't see why it would. Mark

Nothing scary, just keeping 'in the lines' and not loosing balance.

The 2014 is different, the box under the seat does it all (so I understand). Guess I'll have to see where it could be located if I ever do it. I'm not sure where they put it in the 2014 TR model. The rather high cost of the plastic is the issue after that! Be nice to find some used stuff, but probably not very likely, Isn't the stock lower' fuel cap,glued in on the Explorer? Maybe it is just sealer I see...

Mine doesn't see to start well without it. But I'll give it a go and see how it is. Was there anyplace to put it if you want to install the Easystart? (I think they changed it for 2014 also, it is energized with the kill button)

I fit the DID narrow to my Explorer. The original chain was junk- I ride in the mud a lot and often 40-50 miles of tight single track on a ride. Maybe loose a little power, but it has so much less than my 300 KTM that I didn't notice it. If you use a rivet link I think it would fit right in. The clip link is wider than the rest of the chain by a fair amount. I didn't have a rivet link, so I opened up the chain tensioner block a little- works great! I wish it had an enclosed chain...but nobody does that anymore.

How long did it take you? The 2014 model has the Easystart box under the seat - that would have to be moved someplace, I don't think your model has that- yes?

I had never even been to a trial, let alone ride one- but I've been riding for many years- but MX or enduro bikes until pretty recently. I went to give one a go- on my OSSA Explorer (trials bike with a full seat and fuel tank). It was super fun! The sections were quite similar to trails I ride all the time- but of course when out trail riding I am just trying to Make it and not fall down. I do try to keep feet on the pegs, but that is really because of much better control. I had no idea of rules or scoring or anything. But the first section I tired I cleaned it! Not to say I did that on the rest, but felt pretty good, learned a lot about places I need to work on (after 46 years of riding you would think I could do a basic turn). I need to work on keeping my feet on the pegs rather than taking a dab when I don't really need to. My #1 rule when out trail riding is to not fall down, I need to try a little harder to just keep them on the pegs! I highly encourage going- everyone was friendly and helpful, I just said I knew nothing! Lots of good tips. (I did win the class, which was very surprising to me since I didn't think I rode that well!) Mark

I don't know much of anything about trials- I only just did my first one. But I started learning to cover the front brake all the time (and my LHRB) on my KTM 300 enduro bike. For awhile if felt really uncomfortable and unnatural to me. But once I got used to it, I found I had better throttle control- the finger on the brake gave me a good reference point to turning the throttle. My 300 has a LOT more power, and I set it up for loads of bottom end, so delicate control on the throttle is needed if you don't want to end up in the trees. Give it a try while thinking of reference- see if that makes any difference. I've never heard anyone say anything about that before, so maybe I'm full of it and it's just me.

I have about 50 hours on my 2014 Explorer- the issues I've had are a broken chain tensioner spring ($5) and the wiring loom by the steering head was tie wrapped too tightly from the factory, breaking a turn signal wire. My bike is plated, so I need to keep those working. The factory chain is junk- and the rear master fills with mud. But I ride in the mud a lot and my KTM went through wheel bearings also (no, I don't pressure wash). At least I could buy off the shelf ones cheap. Very happy with the bike!

I was told you could buy the cables/software (I was given a price) - but it was quite expensive.

I've had great results with my 2014. From what I read, they did address issues from the older bikes. But all well known and upgradable mostly. Mark

I'd probably locktite them also. I do everything else on bikes...

I welded a rod on a socket. That worked very well (swapped the phony stock Explorer pedal for the TR280 one) I wouldn't mine the setup - if they included a wrench with the bike. Sure no need to supply major special tools, but removing the brake pedal can be a fairly common need. Mark

For the air filter, there is a kit available from OSSA to make the air filter change a snap. Newer bikes come stock with it (I think from 2012?) My Explorer has been delightful and no issues. It seems that early issues have been addressed and solved. I'd post more, but I've already gone on and on in other threads. Very happy owner!

I have a 2014 Explorer. The main part is the same as the trials (plus subframe, seat, extra fuel tank and a bit firmer suspension) It is wonderful! Like mentioned, the engine has very controllable progressive power. Mark

The Explorer has tube type rims. I am running the Tubliss system, so I can run Tubless Tyres. The best part? If I get a puncture, the tyre will NOT come off the rim. Mark

Thanks Steve, I didn't see any class II hitch carriers there... Guess I'll make my own, or keep using the trailer... For shorter runs I just ride the bike, but wouldn't be very fun for a 150 mile road ride! Heading up in the hills shortly. COLD!!! (Well, for whimpy guys that grew up around here, where below 40f is cold)

Thanks for the ideas. cooper won't ship to the states or klipinhoff. Looks like I'll just need to build my own.

Has anyone seen where this carrier is available? I don't know for certain if it would work on my SAAB (factory V.5 rated hitch), but it seems it or something like it may work. (To haul my OSSA Explorer)

Another video, from before the last one posted. What fun!

I've done a few long trail rides on the bike, what a blast! It works fantastic for the mountain trails an drought stuff. Last ride with with a group of good riders on single track- I didn't really have any issue keeping up. Plus I had it way easier on the difficult parts (none were very hard). If cold and doesn't start in three kicks, I push the kill button again and then it starts right up. The only time it doesn't start right up is when I don't kick it right. It does like a good brisk full kick. But it only has about 19 hours on it. I bent the brake pedal on something, now I can reach it. Hopefully the trials brake pedal will be here soon. I did 43 miles of single track and the low fuel lamp came on just as we got back. I think that is .7 litre left. But I haven't filled it yet to check. Have to time the whoops right, but it is so easy to wheelie that it is easier than it sounds. I really liked my 300, but this is so darn fun!!

My 2014 Explorer starts 2-3 kicks for cold (it was 37 degrees this morning ) and the bike starts easily when warm. I will sometimes push the kill button briefly to start it when warm if I'm in a tricky location. I'm not sure it it make a it start easier when hot or not, but hasn't burnt anything either. 95% of the time it is one kick when warm. The only time it isn't one kick is if I give it a half hearted kick. If I start it like I did my old GasGas, it fires right . The bike seems to be getting easier to start all the time (I up to about 15 hours). I have access to lots of test gear also (I'm an electronics tech ) but I haven't hooked anything is to the bike yet. I was told pressing the button charges the capacitor- if the bike used the capacitor to smooth out the power then that makes sense. I went out for a 40 mile trails ride today through so nastily roots, ruts, rocks, hill etc. bike was great! Worked realy, really well for that sort of trail . Mark