I will be watching this for the solution also. I think basic problem is that the carb is angled down to the engine so have lived with it .I am told that changing float height could result in engine stalling/stopping going downhill. I think some folks connect the oveflow to the breather.. watching also for the definitve cure
I 've only got a little un (thats a quote to regret|)..no a 200..It might just be that you could try adjusting the airscrew (have you?).little bit less air may be all it ineeds.
I thought Iowa was a flat as a witches t** I guesse you use quarries etc. It would be interesting to know what terrain you actually have and how you use it ( legal restrictions, do gooders, etc etc.
Ed are you the guy woh displayed a load of photos recently? Have you measured the brackets on frame? "std." footrests nowadays are 25mm wide and 17 mm from back or heel of footrest to hole cntr.
Nice ........Heath appeared to be at home with the xispa Seems to me that its a good buy with 12 months warranty thrown in.... lets face it just about any and all of the makes seem to break ro blow up nowadays.
have a look at bike specific forums main bearings gone (it seems to be a "poular" problem at the moment) Swishing is the sound of mains ... are you using Automatic transmision fluid in g,box? have you put a screwdriver to your ear (better a stethascope) and had a listen to various points around engine pay attention to near exhaust port. try to determin if it is same noise you hearing unamplified. Generally a straightforward job to split engine down worst bit is price of gasket set and getting it back into frame you would need flywheel puller c
I shall watch this with interest. Surely an hydraulic clutch is simply a column of oil/fluid being pushed and as such is infinitly "adjustable?. When somebody with more experience comes on I hope they can shed some light on clutch drag and patterened steel plates (to break the oil stiction I guesse)
If that were the case it would require some very good timing to get those numbers for that many riders. I hope the first contributors suspicions are ill founded. It does seem a folly for manufacturers and importers etc to see good results neccesary for good market share. Yes it's great to compete with your mates thats what sport should be about. Perhaps a better indicatoin of what makes a bike a good buy would be proportion of total sales income spent by each marque on sales promotion costs along with total number of bikes sold. We should never lose sight of the fact that such costs are built into the sale price of either the bikes or the associated parts and equipment. If we continue along the lines that we are we could end up with a similar situation as motor racing (formula one) ore dare I say one where the tail wags the dog regarding ballots servicing/support. In the words of J.J. Cale money talks!
Sounds like good advice to me just a supplement or side question arose for me earlier tonite . was looking for a mat or similar to carry in my camper van to aid grip when I roll to a stop in flat field etc and came across (during google search included words tyre grip) a rubber softener spray had a quick look and it transpires its to give you sticky tyres for road and track use ....is there any application say for indoor trials (not that I would ever be doing any ) but it might just give an edge (no pun intended) to our top guys when they need it! Trust if its any good I will get a couple of complimetary ringside seats for sheffield next year !
Maybe it's a speciality of Jersey 2 day, I got a blackthorn through a glove snapped off in my knuckle went septic, went to hospital, junior (I reckon) surgeon cut it out "nicked" a vein , had an embolism (blood vessel burst) arm in sling for 2 weeks and it's still noticable now after 20 years. I understand the Jersey 2 day nowadays is more like a world round than a good weekend away. I've been going down into france (Aveyron)for a proper classic trial for rememberance weekend riding; its a proper job. Hope Mick San is on the mend I remember him telling us a story (at Richmond when it was a 2 day trial) about his first visit to I think it was the Suzuki factory as a works rider it confirmed what a great fun guy he is.
Setting carb up gaz all I have ever done is to get motor warmed up set tickover as slow as it is comfortable with then adjust airscrew untill it runns smoothest (with my Beta 08 200 has old type carb whatever it is< the airscrew is an airscrew i.e it is before the fuel pickup so it is in to richen and out for weaker).
I did have a little pop at float height adjustment to try to stop it overflowing and occasionally flooding when pointing downhill, hasn't affected running in in the back garden have to try it in "anger" soon.
Regards buying gaskets I simply ordered it expecting it to cost c. 25 quid;.. I think I'll have to go back to the old days of making my own.
Just to add insult to injury for me with this job the thermostat refused to switch ( did old trick of joining it's connector wires together and bingo fan on good and strong), put thermostat in saucpan and brough to boil... still no continuity across terminals so I guess thats another
just went back to home page this website have a look at other technical discussion theres some good info there to help you work out what your problem is
what oil are you using same as prior to the 3 changes? clutces often drag a bit usually cause of surface "tension" twixt plates various lubes affect this.. maybw worth thinking about
have alook at the existing forums re beta engine problems, are you sure it's not simply pinking.. does it knock as you "snatch" throttle open . I .ve just rebuilt mine and put some notes for others to benifit from my experiences (click box 2 on main bearings I think),got it going today i's not a bad job worst bit is putting cycle parts back together.
just a few more notes for poor souls who get the swishing sound...put motor together this afternoon. Don'y know if I did right or wrong by the manual (I didn't get one to tell me about this job) however I put the new bearings and crank assembly in the freezer set the crank halves on blocks so that the insides faced up, heated the crank halfs with my blowlamp until they good and hot (expanded) fitted seals from inside and bearings to follow didnt need to hit the bearings just pushed in by hand (but helped the seals into place with a piece of ally bar I had handy) due to tempreture differences,, allowed the bearings to grip and the heat to transfer to them put a wipe of grease on crank ..dropped drive side of crankshaft in first having greased and located new gasket onto drive side still faceing up , timing side followed (all this whilst drive side not moved all gearbox etc with it I wanted minimun moving it about in case bits fell out of place) when this lot was done( and I 'd had a cuppa to smugly concratulate myself) i heated (not too hot just enoughto get it to bite) the drive side pinion gear cleaned the taper and dropped gear on to taper and air wrenched it tight. ( i reckon that should hold, always dubious about tapers but realy they are incredible ) clutch assembly straightforward .don't forget shim (some would say washer) airwrenched clutch centre and remade lock tag. only other things to look out for are the spacer inside kickstart spring has a slot in it to clear the spring if it's not right the cover won't go into place. Also there is a shim/washer to go on the gearstick shaft. It took me about 40 minutes being ultra carefull and clean which was about twice as long as took to get it apart. Only thing I'm not happy about is best part of 50 quid (from BVM.. perhaps the most expensive trials dealer in the world) for a gasket set to do a job which really shouldn't be neccessary on a sixteen month old bike; the bearings and seals;.... well what can one say it's all been said. Hope this is of use to next fella who has to do this. I did hear of somebody paying local trials dealer c. 700 quid to do this job.. half that would be an easy days work for most folk.
i dont run the lawn mower with that sort of mix... i guesse they covering thier arses .. so far as I know most people run sythentic at 80 to 1 the conversations tend to go that more oil = less fuel = more air mix = running weaker = hotter bla bla bla
top man betabegood (no relation to johnny?) hope all goes well can't wait to get mine back together. I have seen people drilling drain hole so that crud can get out quickly it could almost do with a "scoop" to catch that which is being whirred around by the flywheel . I ready to try anything but like you I guesse I'll just try to keep crud out with a silicon "gasket all round. It would be better if there were more bolts 3 with a plastic moulding is a bit on the "light" side..there it is lets hope our experiences can benifit others.
Thanks for that Gaz every bit of info is usefull (eg the guys at BVM say you can only buy full gasket set I only need centre gasket). considering what a substantial bearing it is there has got to be something peculiar to Betas which is causing this (Not bragging but have a doctorate in mech eng. so do have some idea of whats what). One (wild) idea could be that Betas seem to be awash with fuel half the time.... ie is it diluting the lubrication film?. I have always followed that method of running motor up after washing at least untill the fan kicks in. another observation wast hat there was an awfull lot of crud behind the flywheel cover, ...as it doubles as sprocket guard it may be that crud is really being forced in when chain is carrying mud etc and packing it in there..I dont imagine that would happen so frequently in Italy, couple that with pushing it on in with washing process may be contributary factor . However that crud would have to get through the lip seal which would be ripped to shreds ..mine wasn't. Incidentally my bearings were plain unshielded unsealed yet earlier in this forum John Lampkin is quoted as saying shielded bearings are standard. could it be a crankshaft balance issue?...Beta have just changed that part of the motor I understand. Whatever it is mains are a fundamental part of any bike. I would be a worried man if I was "running" a fleet of them through SSDT... I understand there is a fuel issues as well now that they using extruded section for fuel tank on the Evo's. I expect after all is said and done the problem is going to be either crappy bearings as original equipment or dirt either on assembly or as we all seem to be discussing. Hope BVM send me some quality bearings and seals and I will be sure to put together in clinical conditions and then I can expect never to have to go there again. One thing for sure is these forums are it seems the only way to get an overview of issues such asd this.
Beta Rev 3 P**sing Petrol
in Beta
Posted
I will be watching this for the solution also. I think basic problem is that the carb is angled down to the engine so have lived with it .I am told that changing float height could result in engine stalling/stopping going downhill. I think some folks connect the oveflow to the breather.. watching also for the definitve cure