sammyd173

Thanks! Didn't want this to be one of those threads where you never hear the answer to what the problem was!

Problem solved - the rectifier was bad and made the fan run too slowly. Took a chance and bolted a new one in and that was it! Thanks all!

So there are telltale signs of coolant dried on the back of the cylinder. Pulled head and it was caked with white crud. The rubber gaskets look fine. But the fan is turning slow enough where I can see the insides of the blades turning. It is pulling hot air out but it's more of a waft. I'm wondering if that means the fan is bad or that it's not getting enough current, any ideas?

So there are telltale signs of coolant dried on the back of the cylinder. Pulled head and it was caked with white crud. The rubber gaskets look fine. But the fan is turning slow enough where I can see the insides of the blades turning. It is pulling hot air out but it's more of a waft. I'm wondering if that means the fan is bad or that it's not getting enough current, any ideas?

Also she does puke out about a half cup if coolant after a long ride. Pretty sure no air lock but I will squeeze the tubes to make sure.

Thank you all so much for the replies! So many great suggestions. I will check the fan speed an that may be the culprit, it is very quiet compared to other bikes and may not be turning fast enough. Will also check feel of cooling hoses and will pull apart impeller. Actually the new style impeller is sealed, I think, so this may not be an option. It is described as an automotive type and may not be serviceable?

I rode the bike again the other day in more challenging climbs. This is where the bike does not work so well for me. Technical climbs where you have to feather the clutch to keep the front end down are this bikes week spot as the second you pull it in there is zero power. I had the bike on full power and it feels like it has the strength if a 125 with no clutch use. As far as roll on power it might make similar power to a 250 - doesn't feel like it - but considering how much we clutch these bikes it doesn't have anywhere near the power of a 125 with a flywheel and the revs dialed up and then the clutch released. I've seen videos of guys doing more challenging stuff than I can do but it's so much easier to ride a gas bike. I think I'd be better off getting an almost silent 4t Evo. The range in the EM was very good, however, and woukd not be An issue for me. For 10k US it needs a working clutch though for me.

I have a 2015 water pump on the bike - the new design is much better and it's definitely aligned correctly otherwise it wouldn't seal against the engine. It's full of Maxima performance coolant. It has a Kehin carb, maybe I need to adjust the fuel screw as it's running too lean?

I have. 2004 TXT 280 Pro. Jetting is per recommendations here, fan comes on when it should, running proper coolant, fresh radiator cap. No oil in transmission fluid. I have cleaned and hosed out radiator externals. Running 80:1 using race gas. Problemwas worse with pump gas. Admittedly I ride in San Diego which gets warm, and I do some climbing, but whenever I shut the bike off I can hear the coolant gurgling and boiling. Any ideas?

I signed up for newsletter updates on the Oset site. The 24 looks great but I'm having a hard time figuring out the size compared a full-sized bike. I suppose 24 means 24" wheels? Although it looks like the rear is running a full size trials tire. "The OSET 24.0 development program is gaining pace. We are waiting on several important test parts to take the project closer to production, but currently have four test bikes being used by a variety of riders in a variety of situations. Reaction to the bikes has been universally positive, with the performance continuing to surprise and amaze! The 24.0 will be an important addition to the range and introduce a whole new set of riders to the OSET brand. Existing OSET owners will also have a bigger bike to look forward as they outgrow their OSET 20.0s!" Ian Smith, founder and CEO of OSET Bikes VIDEO OF THE BIKE IN ACTION Oliver Smith recently rode the 24.0 at the first Three Counties OSET Cup, hosted by East Anglia Trials Club, look out for him in the video above! PHOTOS OF THE BIKE WITH OUR TEST RIDERS

I rode one last week in San Diego. All I can say is wow, I want one. Throttle travel was rather excessive and that was the only downside I could see. It was very easy to static balance- easier than my Gas Gas. The only thing is that I have a kids Razor electric dirt bike which was $500 new. This bike isn't low quality at all, but riding the EM reminded me a little of that Razor experience. This makes the $10k US price tag rather hard to swallow. But I think I'm going to get one early next year. What would be really great? EM or someone builds a kit that you can plug into a Gas Gas chassis.

It rings a bell for me. Sounds like your kickstarter was put back on one tooth to the rear of where it should be. It's amazing what a difference this can make. If the kickstart is put back on the spline angled too far forward it's almost impossible to kick over. That was my problem. When it's angled too far back, again just one tooth, it doesn't engage enough to push the piston through two compression cycles so it won't fire up. Put the kickstart forward a tooth and see how it goes!

Ha! I think that would be 'self-observing' rather than self-minding though! Maybe I should start doing both...

Thought I would share this 'top tip' with my Trials brethren which has been helping me recently. If I find my concentration going towards the end of a practice session, I'll start 'self-minding', ie talking out loud to myself about what I should be doing as I'm doing it. Curiously I find it most effective when I adopt a thick Yorkshire accent, specifically that of Martin Lampkin. "Come on Dougie! PerFECT! You've got about two inch. ForWARD!" Etc. it also helps that I practice alone so no one can hear me. Give it a try!

If you are using to much effort pushing the bars forward to get the rear end up then your body will be to locked up to get the rear wheel out to the side. Really stabbing at the pegs hard using your legs to get the rear end up made a huge difference to me, as did getting my '04 shock revalved for faster rebound. The secret is definitely in throwing the hips out. Also try this: to get the rear to go over to your left, push the bars (not turn them) down towards the right, as you are approaching the top of your endo.

Yup, so I don't ride on any public roads. You kind of need to see where these spots are. San Diego has mountains surrounded by hills surrounded by mountains. I call these illegal spots because I'm sure that's what they are, but we are talking places several ranges back with no homes or farmers or people anywhere in sight. There are old access roads carved decades ago with housing pads here and there that no one has any interest in buying for some time. I trailer the bike in and out. Google earth is an amazing tool. I drive around constantly looking around at hills and distant mountains and when I get home I see if there is way to get to them and if there are no houses. Depending on where you live you may find somewhere to ride 20 mins to half an hour from your house.

To the OP... Your answer is Google Earth. I live in San Diego, and with the help if this app I have found countless (illegal) places to ride. I've never been caught because I go out of my way not to run into anyone.

Okay I think the main culprit here ended up being a clogged mid pipe. I thought I had cleaned it with the dot 3 brake fluid but that did nothing. Ended up using degreaser and soap (I know) and the bike runs much better. Also found a hole in it which I plugged.

You didn't mention making sure the bike is full of coolant. If she is, and the fan is spinning correctly, the bike should not overheat. Also make sure you shake up the gas when you add premixed, I made the mistake once of just pouring it in the can and the mixture was off.

Here's a money saving tip if you're a plonker like me; If you hear noise from the fan intermittently then check to see that any cables, tubes or wires are interfering. I noticed the fan made noise after big drop offs and finally figured out that one of the radiator overflow tubes was rubbing on the fan. Silly me.

Thanks for posting Crazbond. Yes, according to Gas Gas there shoudl be an 'E', however according to the DMV there should not. Lineaway that may be the information I need to get her registered - thanks!

Used carb cleaner instead of just air on the jets, switched to 91 pump gas instead of race gas, raise the float levers. Bike no longer pops at idle, and the idle screw is much further out. Either she was not getting enough fuel in the float bowl to sip on or I managed to clean something out. Bike still crackles too much when opening her up though. Hopefully the larger pilots I have on order will help. If not I'm getting a Kehin. Thanks Lineaway for convincing me to stick at it; I'd be $600 poorer for a top end kit by now and I wouldn't be doing any better! Not sure why the guy at trialspartsusa recommended using Dot 3 brake fluid to sit in the mid pipe. Absolutely no carbon came out after it sat all night. I thought I flushed it out pretty good with brake cleaner and water, but the bike was puking residual brake fluid when she was running today and she was smoking a lot!

Question on float level. When I turn the carb upside down the brass tongs are not parallel. When I push down on them, which depresses the plunger that regulates fuel into the float bowl, they are then perfectly parallel. Are they supposed to be parallel before the plunger is depressed?

I don't have the history on the bike, unfortunately. Part of the reason it was only $1,900. At least there is no record of it being stolen. I guess I'll just not register it.

What carb is on the bike? Too much oil on the air filter choking out the engine? Clean the filter with gas and let it dry out and then put it in the bike with no oil on it to start her and see how she runs.