Your clutch may be starting to drag a little. They are a lot harder to find neutral when there is a slight torque through the gearbox. A sharp tap with the heel when in first usually works
I would say a definite "NO!" on the "is straight steering balancing required for both wheel hops".
Balancing with the front wheel straight for anything longer than a few seconds is rather hard, and in my opinion much harder than doing complete hops.
My opinion on technique would be to try and compress front and back suspension simultaneously, through both the handlebars and footpegs, but to use the legs and hips to turn the bike while in the air. It is always easiest to perform a two wheel hop while moving, and even easier when you use a small obstacle (around 200mm) to kick the back wheel up. I hope this helps.
The problems when covering the brake seem to be absorbing the rear wheel impact and also keeping in a straight line.
I dont quite follow you on this line...
Foot position for me is exactly the same as my none braking foot, i never move my foot forward or backwards on the peg to reach the brake, but rather tilt my foot out to the side. Its sounds like you have to move your foot forward to use the rear brake is this right? Is that because you say you ride on the balls of your feet and cant reach the pedal? (Ive always only ridden on my arches)
I run my brake pedal rather low in comparison to others, so that i can have my foot over it without having to bend my ankle that much to avoid dragging the brake.
This may be hard to explain but sometimes when trick riding, its impossible to always have your foot over the rear brake, and you have to catch the initial looping out with the clutch and then be super quick with your foot to control it further. Consciously having your foot over the rear brake all the time can be rather awkward.
You shouldnt have to disconnect the pedal. Once you loosen the lock nut the the threaded pin that goes into the master cylinder should rotate into the pedal, a pair of pointy pliers is needed to do this. Maybe its ceased in the threads of the pedal.
PS to lower the pedal you will want to lower this pin, not raise it.
GOing to disagree with the above posts. I would not put ATF anywhere near a motorbike gearbox, even less a gasgas. Your clutch might like it, but i can assure you your gears and main bearings will not! Id use light gear oil of any brand, followed by a car engine oil. For me id use options 2 or 3 and ATF as a last resort.
Your limiting factor will be your clutch, if you put the 75W motyl in and your clutch still clears, go for it
That year of bike should be fine, anything pre 09 id stay away from. 09-10-11-12 are for the large part identical. The main thing to check would be the clutch, does it clear properly with no drag? Can you get all the gears, even up to 5th and 6th? Theres a selector that can bend. Check the wear in the suspension dog bones (specific to all makes bar your scorpa) if you can, by unloading the rear wheel. Anything greater than 10mm play these will probably need replacing ~70quid. Check the tail pipe isnt worn through from the rear tyre.
If its a raga (magnesium casings) and maybe even check on the standard model that the bottom engine casing mount isnt broken.
Check for any cracks in the frame.
Most of these are unlikely but as they say forewarned is forearmed.
Unless you have a time warp machine your idea will never happen.
Having turned up at a trial with a well fettled bultaco only to find that the points didnt fancy a day out Im guessing you are in a minority of wanting twinshocks drum brakes and points.
Let me explain in case you're blinkers are still on, lads starting out now can do no more (other than the bikes are sooo much better) than they could in the 70's.
The standard of Bou raga et al is significantly better than the also rans at wtc. Our best in the uk is 5/6th in the world and hes head and shoulders above others in BTC. The best half dozen in this country probably could get round a wtc but would likely be very near maximum, look at jack shepards scores (at least hes trying) in recent wtc's. You question should be why are our countrys top ten not competing, not suggesting a twinshock solution.
You cant turn the clock back
I couldn't DISAGREE more with everything in this post if it was possible.
The original poster was hypothesising the return to that level of trials, not a return to those exact bikes. If you are blaming a points ignition system (the simplest of igntion systems!!) for an ill running bike, then it is anything but a well fettled bike.
You also seem to lack the understanding that when the overall difficulty of a trial drops, the riders scores will concertina. Why do you struggle to understand this?
They did hold a world round in fort william a few years back, but for some reason they now prefer to hold the world round at terrible place full of man made sections. Worst world round in the championship in my opinion
I largely agree with the original post. 15 riders at a world championship is not good, i dont think anyone can dispute that!! Less riders is bad, for basically everything, and less riders usually makes it easier for one person to dominate. You just have to look at F1. The level has become too dangerous, not too difficult, too dangerous, and when a world round comes to your country and no people are capable of riding it, thats not good!! In the 70s and 80s you could have had close to 100 people competing the same line with the winner on a reasonable 50 and the lower down riders dropping lots of marks but not getting killed. I think the level has to come down, you can still make a trial difficult without 30ft drops everywhere, and i think the only realistic way is through tyres. Back to 4 ply i say.
Id be surprised if they could make it, fork tubes are rather thin walled, and what grade of steel will they be using? Why do you think they would last longer?? Both are chromed are they not? Philpotts rechrome a set for 120 or 150, cant remember which, getting a company to make a one of pair cant be cheap, that include threading and/or circlip grooves...
However, to answer your question, you can make the the tubes longer, but this will not increase the movement of the fork remember, just give you longer forks...
No, cant say i have, though i am always conscious about over tightening. They are pretty cheap though. I remember the old amal throttle bodies made in alloy (the dominos are basically a plastic copy) and they were brilliant, you could really tighten them.
The principle was after 3 dabs as long as you rode non stop you avoided a five.
therefore it was to distinguish between a rider who got through a section as opposed to one that didnt, a 2 mark difference.
4 wouldnt encourage a push through enough as it would only save the one.
Thats how i think it was reasoned anyway.
No, before that trials used to be marked in reverse. You started with a high score and got 10 for a clean, 0 for a failure and you subtracted your marks from the total, and whoever had the least at the end of the day would win.
Im 6'2 and recently bought a set of jitsie (jacky brown to be specific) and they fit me pretty well, probably better than any previous gear ive owned. The shirt (M) is a little weird fitting, tight sleeves loose chest, but the trousers (34) are pretty spot on. Others have said they find the jitsie fitting kind of weird, maybe its suited to the taller rider, i dont know.
Inter Centre 2015
in UK Trials Talk
Posted
Ok, thanks for the info