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faussy

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Posts posted by faussy
 
 
  1.  

    Then looking at worlds top fellas they also have the bars turned right far forward, is this due to the steepness of their sections plus the way they ride more and more on the back wheel?

     

     

    Yes and yes. Also its a lot easier to endo the bike the further your bars are forward. Bars back is ok for general riding, but as soon as you start to trick ride further forward helps.

  2. I guess i would do over 150 hours a season. Had a 2010 gg for 2 years and a 2012 for 2 and a half years. 

     

    Bike is good for 2 years for me no problem, after which you may need to start looking at rings and pistons, i think its worth changing.

  3. so now this thread is about judging ones bike? stickers look good mate cheers for that.

     

    Dont think we are criticising!! 

     

    Agree on the handlebar statement, i once rode over a year with a set of bent handlebars and couldn't tell until someone else got onto my bike and said they were bent. Its extremely hard to tell sometimes. These do look noticeably bent though, optical illusion probably.

     

    Fork wise, the red capped fork is up through the top yoke more than the black capped fork.

    • Like 1
  4. I currently have the gaerne oiled boots, such a comfy boot, but after a good soaking they become extremely soft and i nearly ripped my little toe off at the reeth, so has anyone tried the standard gaernes? Are they a little tougher when wet?

     

    Yes, especially out of the box, remember Graham Jarvis used to ride with the standard Gaernes when everyone was wearing the purple oiled version. He said they gave him more protection. I have two 10 year old pair and the standard pair are still slightly stiffer.

  5. When you fitted the 2015 water pump did you check the system is circulating correctly? Air lock maybe?

     

    When the bike is warm, are the bottom hoses as hot as the top hose??

     

    If the bike doesn't boil over and throw all the water out of the radiator, then its not really overheating. Is it doing this?

  6. Seen him ride in person for the first time a month ago. Very impressed with his smoothness and style, very like James when he was in the youths. Not surprised he was the first to get the win. Only negative i can say about him and the other two lads he competes with is their consistency. One week they are amazing the next off the pace a little.

  7. I imagine there are a lot of reasons, but in one simple sentence i think trials has changed in the 20 years ive been riding. Trials used to be hard and riders wanted a challenge, now trials are easy and riders want to win awards or feel if they go round clean they are getting better. Its a race to the bottom.

    • Like 3
  8.  Quit reading a book for jetting. I live at 6500 and ride mainly from 7000 ft to 13000 ft. Dropping a needle only at altitude without jetting does zilch. You go up in pilot jet size (Loss of atmospheric pressure if you have to have some logic) down on the main jet. Also riding at elevation is very hard on water cooled trials bikes as the cooling system cannot handle the demands on the motor.

     

    Its been a while since ive read such misinformation on carburettion. Maybe YOU should read a book on how carburettors work, and while you're at it Aristotle's Mechanica for an explanation on torque.

  9.  The first thing you do going up in elevation is go to a lager pilot.

     

    You mean smaller?

     

     

    For 6 to 9 thousand feet at similar temperature to sea level i think the corrections are about 0.92, so multiply your jet sizes by 0.92 and that roughly gives the sizes you will need.

     

    Dropping the needle a clip would be a good start.

  10. We have a lot of those bikes (30+), all running 100:1. More oil causes piston rings to stick, your exhaust clogging up etc. I must say those are not used to speed. On trial location used only, low revs. Hence the comment to use more when you are driving it on roads or trails.

     

    I use 1:40 on my CR250, which is way way way more maintances needy, and has a lot more power.

     

    And i run my mx'r at 20:1 and in 5 years have yet to have a piston ring stick.

     

    Each to their own.

    • Like 1
  11. Why go past the manufacturers recommendation of 50:1? 100:1 was never heard of in 98 and frankly you would have been laughed at then if you said you were running 100:1 or even 70:1. Just the same way you would have been laughed at in the 70s if you said you were running 50:1. 

     

    On top of that you have a 17 year old bike with no doubt a worn piston and bore and you want to do road work. I wouldn't entertain anything less than 50:1, possibly a bit more given the bikes age.

     

    As you rightly say, the worst consequence of too much oil is a fouled plug (even though thats as much due to your carburation), too little and you have something expensive to fix. 

     

     its worth bearing in mind a rich oil mix means less petrol so the engine can actually run weak

     

    No, its means the same volume of a marginally thicker petrol

    • Like 1
  12. " with a quick hand full of throttle"?

    What are you doing? Sitting there wacking it off? Do you ride that way?

    Lean throttle chop ping(knock) may be caused because you just shut off the fuel to a revving motor!

    The pilot(low speed) jet is the one that helps here, providing you are using good fuel of proper octane.

    36/38 or possibly even 40 is not out of the question. Finding the sweet spot while maintaining good running is the key, and you will likely have to come way off the 3.5 turn thing and down into the 2-3 turn range with the larger jet installed.

     

    Agree with all of this. 

 
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