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fxstbi

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Everything posted by fxstbi
 
 
  1. This has been an interesting topic. Dan, you have done a tremendous amount of work that we all benefit from, thank you. I just got a new 300 4t Factory and my clutch appears to be decent at least better than my '15 Sherco 250. I do have to break my plates free by rocking the bike in third gear but that seems to be a common ailment on the last three trials bikes I've had. I did read on a different board that you can improve clutch feel by removing two of the stock 4t plates and putting in two 2t plates. I asked my dealer friend what the differences were between the two types of plates were and he said the 2t plates were .3mm thinner. In your experience, do you think this will help alleviate the sticking plates and give better clutch feel? Might there be slippage? I'm looking forward to making a great bike even better!
  2. Thank you mcman56! I would have never thought about looking for a part like that. Outstanding.
  3. How about posting what the black John Deere arrestor looks like or give us some more details and where to get one.
  4. jonnyjibs is exactly right. My Sherco clutch sticks after setting for several days. I pull it into third gear and do the same as jonny, rock it a few times with the clutch pulled in and it breaks free easily. Start up and go, I don't have any drag, my clutch works normal immediately.
  5. fxstbi

    Stickers Lifting

    Good question. If the bike is new I take a heat gun and get the stickers really hot and pliable so you can form them to the surface while wearing gloves, usually the heat reactivates the glue and makes them pliable so they stay down. If the stickers are loose and have some dirt on the adhesive side I take acetone on a q-tip and clean the dirt off, some glue comes off too, that's ok, clean the substrate too. Then I use 3M 77 adhesive, sprayed into a cup and use an acid brush to brush glue onto the sticker and the substrate. Make sure you get glue on both surfaces so there are no un-glued edges or this won't work very well. After the glue tacks up I press the sticker in place and hit it with the heat gun again. I wait until the next day and clean any glue off with acetone, just be careful using acetone on plastic it can damage the surface. I've used this technique on new and used bikes with good results every time and it works with any graphic that has become loose on any part of the bike.
  6. I agree with cope. My '13 250 sounded like that for two years, I sold it to a friend and it still sounds like that. Ride it!
  7. I finally got this bike dialed in and it runs great. I'm posting one more time just for anyone's future reference. The carb is set for 800' MSL, temp was 60 degrees F. 125 main & 48 pilot, stock JJH needle with the clip in the bottom groove, air screw one turn out. I expect the a/s might need tweaking as the temps climb into the 90's. It took several attempts to get where I am now but it was well worth the effort. I've not done much needle/clip changes on any of my bikes in the past but I saw dramatic changes in how the bike runs in the midrange making those changes. I think those changes are most noticeable on a trials bike because of the controlled use of throttle compared to my race bikes where I am accelerating and passing through the midrange going to WOT.
  8. I changed to 125/48 and the bike runs much better! Thanks copemech.
  9. I just bought a like new '15 300 that the original owner said has never been touched. It has felt and sounded lean since I've had it so I pulled the carb and the jets that were in it were 128 main and 42 pilot. The manual that came with the bike only covers up to 290 size engine size and stock for a 290 is a 125 main and a 48 (shown in the specs). Can anyone tell me what is stock on a '15 300 so I can be sure of what I'm supposed to have? I would like to have the stock clip position too if you know it. Many thanks!
  10. This what I just bought to keep my keys in while on the trail. It plugs into the hitch receiver on my truck.
  11. fxstbi

    Show Us Your Ty

    Here's my recently completed '74 TY250. I took it down to the bare frame and sandblasted everything and finished it with automotive acrylic enamels. All the aluminum bits have been stripped and clear coated so they look similar to new and I replaced a bunch of parts like you usually have to on an old bike, so it should be reliable. It was a fun project. Now on to the restoration of my '74 and '75 TY175's!
  12. Thanks guys, I'll check out both methods, I appreciate the ideas.
  13. I'm finishing my restoration on my 250 and noticed that there is no plastic guide or wear block on top of the swing arm like there are in the later models. Anyone come up with an alternate solution to prevent the chain from hitting the top of the swing arm?
  14. Thank you both for the quick replies! I did a through check and the swing arm did have a slight twist causing the tire to tilt left a bit. I pulled the 'arm, clamped it down to my steel table using a scrap piece of round stock through the pivot and measured the difference between the axel slots on each side. It was off about 3/32". I blocked the left leg of the 'arm and smacked the right leg with my rubber mallet a few times and it straightened right out. I reassembled everything and everything is back to verticle! Easy. Thanks again!
  15. I'm restoring a '74 250 and when I disassembled it I noticed that the rear mud guard is completely worn through on the left side from the tire rubbing it through the years. I've tried to get it centered better than the original holes will allow but the tire still rubs. Anyone one experience this and if so what did you do? I've seen used mud guards on eBay and some of them have the same wear as mine. I'm interested in any suggestions or solutions will be appreciated. I have no problem modifying if necessary. Thanks in advance.
  16. My 250 is stock with the factory jets, 122 main and 33 pilot, I tweaked the air screw maybe 1/4 and it runs great. I'm at about 1,000 feet MSL. My '15 spools up quick and my wife's '13 spools up a little slower because it has a flywheel weight. You might check and see if your bike has one, look for an extra spacer on the ignition side cover.
  17. It won't blow up! (Disclaimer) as long as you are jetted correctly. Do make sure you are using a full synthetic 2T oil. I have two KTM two strokes and I had to get past the mental block of "that's not enough oil" for my trials bike. When you find out that everyone is running their modern trials bikes at these ratios and you put some time on your bike you'll get comfortable with it.
  18. As noted these figures are for US gallons. Take 128 (ounces in a gallon) and divide x the ratio you want (80) 128/80=1.6 Multiply 1.6 x 29.5729 (how many cc's in an ounce) and you get 47.316cc's There are lots of online calculators that make it easy but if all you have is a pencil you can do it this way.
  19. 80-1 on my '15 Sherco 250. You need to get a big bore syringe to get an accurate cc measurement. 48cc's per gallon for 80-1.
 
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