barrybaines

At some point all of my toolbox has been taken over by a varying degree of bent and snapped levers (Obviously not mine someone must be playing a trick on me )I think I may even have one straight one in there! Really must have a sort out and find out were all the tools have gone though? All I can find is rim protectors a C spanner and many a allen key

Yeah about 70-80:1 should be fine I'd of thought. Be well worth giving the exhaust a good clean out and re-pack too. As for the Schools he uses a fair few differnt places around the country and a couple in Gloucester, give him a ring he will be more than happy to help I'm sure

Should go between them but you will most likely need to roll it back and for to do so

I managed to have a quick play on one today and was very impressed, amazing amount of power (250) really crisp yet still a smooth delivery

As far as I can see it ( and I don't follow the sport) the guy is out there having fun! He's young naturally talented but has lack of experiance and for my view is winding up the more mature drivers on the track with his "hobby like" driving wereas the rest are driving for a living. Good luck to the guy and long live the fun driving before it all sets in making it more of a career than a fun event.

1. Not to sure on quantities on the Techno but ATF Dexron III is a good oil to use if changed every 20 hours or so. If unsure on what is in there currently may be worth flushing through with the ATF by emptying and refilling, running for a few minutes then empty and refill with fresh oil 2. Talon are a good source of decent sprockets and will help you out with what the OE sizes were TALON 3. I have heard the rear brake on the Techno is generally crap but yes you can buy the seal and piston kits for not a lot of money BVM sell this kind of stuff and have a very quick turn around on postal orders (when the posties aren't on strike!) 4. As long as the wheel is straight and true and you have a good fitting spoke key just tighten them up making sure to give the nipples a good soak in something like GT85 or WD40 before hand 5. Thats a personal pref thing I like Dunlops or Michelins but equally have riden a 125 Sherco with a Vee rubber rear on it and found no difficultys, also varys on the terrain you will be riding. The IRC is supposed to be good in the mud 6. I can vouch for the Steve Saunders trials schools with Steve Saunders Dave and Alex Hall great bunch SXS 7. Ryan Young DVD is a great DVD if a little pricey but the often come up on ebay or the likes well worth it 8. Get out there have a good laugh meet some amazing people and enjoy your new found sport

OK then the front should be tubed the rear tubeless. My guess is the reason your rear is tubed is because it has previously leaked (probably through spokes) and the previous owner has just chucked a tube in it. Many a threads in the mechanical threads in here to solve the issues on this have a look around you should find the solution so long as you are patient with your working techniques and methodical

I'm in the UK. Wales. The trials tyres on my bike at the moment say tubed tyres. The valve has a locknut on the outside, obvliously being an inner tube there. If I was to buy a tubeless tyre what do i have to do, get a valve fitted at a tyre garage? What about the adjustment on the spokes will air escape hence do i have to stick to tubed tyres? Thankyou WRC What bike do you have? All these questions wouldn't be asked if you filled your profile out!

I just got some of this through and thought it was a great deal even after the postage. 10 litres of Muc-off for

Bearings usually go in the freezer before instalation and cases in the oven, front room often used as a cycle workshop too

oooh matron Any volunteers to observe? I would if I weren`t scared sh!tless of Laia!

Well put I know a fair few people that are scared to play with set ups on their bikes be it road, trials or whatever (even down to road cycling friends) But the difference a well set up machine makes WILL make the difference between a 3/5 and a clean. If you are really not mechanically minded at all do whatever you can to record the settings as they stand, mark with a pen take photo's whatever it takes. You will not only reap the benefits from a more enjoyable/competitive ride but also get to know and understand your bike so much better. Lets face it at most you need is a couple of Allen keys a C spanner and a screw driver or 2 and the patience to play around with potentially loads of combinations, just make a note of what feels good where whats feels totally wrong etc and soon enough all will fall into place.

Because it has no quality's as a bearing lubricant? probably has a much lower boiling point, certainley isn't a grease and with it's slight tacky texture could attract more dirt and dust than and high quality waterproof grease could keep out! Think about it for a minute......... There we are common sense sinks in, you have a moving bearing with load on it that see's all sorts of crap coming its way.... what would be better spending a tenner on a tub of grease that will do all your bearings for years to come packing them full to prevent any damage or spray some fluid in there that may well disperse within days? well, thats told me, how cme raga recomends spraying them with grease and so does bou?? Never heard that before but just for a quick "my opinion" They will have their bikes rebuilt for each and every ride so maybe your "chain spray" method will work great for say 6 hours? But for the rest of us mere mortals that pay and service our own bikes my method works great for me. And thanks to ND for backing me up on this

Here you go something like this would be great if treated to the right grease like THIS Because it has no quality's as a bearing lubricant? probably has a much lower boiling point, certainley isn't a grease and with it's slight tacky texture could attract more dirt and dust than and high quality waterproof grease could keep out! Think about it for a minute......... There we are common sense sinks in, you have a moving bearing with load on it that see's all sorts of crap coming its way.... what would be better spending a tenner on a tub of grease that will do all your bearings for years to come packing them full to prevent any damage or spray some fluid in there that may well disperse within days?

Personally wouldn`t put "chain spray" anywere near my bearings! And although a fair price for a good name bearing I bought 10x 6004RS for my Beta off ebay about a year ago for about

whatever bearings you get make sure you carefully remove the seals and repack them with a decent grease, preferably that blue waterproof stuff you can get. It may cost a bit for a tub but is worth its weight in gold the amount of time/money you will save changing bearings.

Or you could try putting the bolt hole off centre so it acts a bit like a cam? may make it a little progressive? Just a daft thought

About

Thankfully I lost the one of you in just your Lycra shorts Ralph but I'm sure a certain person could help us out there?

After having a rack for a year I finally decided I neede a van and got me a 1.9 TD Dispatch, what a great van it is will easily get two bikes in and am told 3 is OK on the shorter journeys, after having to do a bit of work on the vehicle recently I can vouch for the ease of maintanance on this van to and better still you can play Citroen, Peugeot and Fiat off against each other for parts prices (Euro carparts or GSF seem best at the mo though) As for day to day use I will happily drive mine like a car for the shopping although you will have a major blind spot if reversing out of a parking space. As for the Mrs and kid as long as the little 'un aint that big yet you should be fine for decent length journeys; I have literally just last week been ferrying my parents to and from Bristol airport with no bother although a little close. But that said I and they were happy enough for a 40 minute journey. Major plus sides of the van over the rack are 1: getting changed in the dry 2: less compression of suspension on the bike = less stress on you and bike 3: go at your speed without looking in mirror every 2 seconds to check straps are holding 4: if properly prepared can hold all your kit and are very very easy to keep tidy Now go out and buy a good one

Cough cough Splutter (DISHES LADS)

Easiest advice on this is take it off and investigate before running the engine any more! If you still can't figure it out when you have it off and retreived the part that was rattling take a picture of it and post on here

Never had a Beta clutch apart but from description alone I would say they are thrust washers and are of great importance!

Sounds like a new habbit that I thought a Pro couldn't pick up! Hope you didn't have a 5 mile hike back to the van for some more!

What are you planning for the "erco" bit in the centre? Looks surprisngly good though! has enough pink to keep you happy yet not too much