jm_

I finally sorted the clutch after 2 or 3 oil changes and centering the belleville spring over the press-plate (it has about 1-2 mm of concentric play and resulted in the pulsating effect that my bike suffered). After this, I made a new press-plate with less inner diameter and 0.15 mm less of pressure to have the same good feel of mi trusty GG'06. Also had the same bubbles in both lines (brake and clutch) due to the bad habit of shipping. I don't know why they don't remove both masters and zip them in vertical position to the fork, this is how I send my bikes crated. Cheers, JM

Hi, The new oil was better, but can't get ride of a pulsating clutch when you need a light, sustained slip. Symptom of a damaged fiber disc, or warped metallic one... I'll inspect the set, not a huge work but nasty in a brand new bike. JM

I've exactly the same bike than yours and the same problem. I noticed a progressively harder and rough clutch durign the first 20 minutes after uncrated. Drained the original oil («NILS» I suppose as owner's manual states). Was extremly liquid with an horrible odour, lots of bubbles in surface, touch as dissolvent... Both magnets in drains were full of a ferric-fibrose mud that I expect wasn't ride througt the holes that lubricate the main bearings. After change to a common 75W gear oil, the thing goes better, but I suspect that the fiber discs are somehow degradated and inflated (so the harder touch in handlebar). I've wrote a notification to TRS by mean of my dealer. Could be a case of a bad batch of oil? At the moment, I've no answer from factory, but I have confidence in Marc and Jordis. Cheers, JM

Hi, 300 and 250 run with the same jetting from stock: pilot jet: 45 main jet: 125 needle: JJH with clip in middle slide: 3.5 Is almost identical in all trials engine now (maybe sherco was using a leaner pilot jet --42--) due to the almost identical thermodynamics in 2T of similar characteristics. I bet you can swap the keihin between your GG and TRS with total success! Cheers, JM

Hi, In my Beta 300 4T (16) I had a very dragging & sticking clutch with recommended oil by owner's manual (synthetic 10W50). Was difficult change gears and, even, the bike creeped forward fractions of seconds before the clutch were free. I systematically tried several (much!) configurations/oils and, finally, found that a set of sherco fiber plates and synthetic 10w40 (Repsol) were perfect to me. I ride in south Spain (a climate similar to BillyT). In trials use (not a sustained ride) I feel better the 10w40 because it goes faster to everywere and make its lubrication and refrigeration jobs better than a thicker oil. Honda, in their works machines, uses 10W30 for engine (their clutch runs apart in different oil). A thicker oil is not always better. Cheers JM

I wonder how this will have ended ... Cheers, JM

Many thanks! I'll try to use the same reservoir/bladder with a different final. If the reservoir cracks, then will try to make a DeCarbon system with a new, smaller, bottom end to reduce weight Cheers, JM

Thanks Snowball. Did he machine the set reservoir+bottom holder? In what sense a nightmare? I like very much the showa because is very sensitive at low speed and enough strong at high velocity. It weighs a little more than modern reiger/öhlins, but give a bonus in traction. Thanks, JM

Hi, Yes it has a bladder: I'm also interested in this thread. I'll try to fit on a TRS (has a little U instead the bottom rose bulb, so it's necessary to machine a new one). Anyone knows if this part (it isn't in the photo) is screwed on the reservoir? Thanks, JM

Hi, The point goes back and forth or only progress in the same way? May be a bubble in the hose that dilates when hot. The bikes are shipped with handlebars upside down and this may cause thins like yours. Undo the lever and reservoir, put the most vertical as you can and operate the lever. Let overnight in this position and see what happens next day. If not success, it may be necessary to bleed the circuit (mineral oil). If this also hasn't success, you should check the integrity of piston in the master cylinder. What year is your bike? A batch of braktec were recalled in 2017's shercos due to a sharp orifice in the master bore. The behaviour was similar to yours, but these issues are not documented in TRS. Cheers, JM

Hi Chappo, This tube should be closed by a elastic rubber (the OEM one is really bad, easily cracked and lost). Its mission is to equalize pressure in multicylinder engines. Just plug a closed hose and go. Cheers JM

I use a removable hex head turned with a spanner. Anyway, do not expect a remarkable result. Anyone had success fitting a showa shock from montesa? Cheers, JM

For sure, you better buy a english bike... JM

Hi, Sherco's disk are made from a different fiber than Beta ones. Beside the dragging, I had a bad hot sticking (when riding and clutching, they take a fraction of second to free the wheel). I did not feel the problem until ride mi GG side to side. When the problem was resolved, the bike was really fantastic to ride, very smooth in the clutch in/out actuation. As trade off, I now have a little rattle in the clutch basket due to the 1mm less in diameter of sherco disks. This rattle will develop a premature wear of basket tangs but, until that moment, I'll enjoy the bike. Cheers, JM

I had the same problem in my '16 300 4T. Did the 'clutch fix' but it did not helped so much. So, in a moment of fool, I mounted a set of sherco disks I had around. The sherco ones are 1 mm less in diameter but fitted very nicely. Filled with 10w40 to the right level and, so far, very happy with this set. Maybe I'll get a early wear basket but... I can machine a new one to get the sherco disks properly fitted then. Cheers, JM