dozerash

Here are a couple more pictures I found:

This all wheel drive SWM was built in 1981! It was a Prototype, they competed with it once and the FIM banned all wheel drive bikes. If anyone else knows anymore about this Prototype or have more pictures, please post them!

Here is the front brake set up on my 1980 TL320 project bike with Betor forks.

Here is the brake set up on my 1982 TL320 spare bike.

Here is the brake set up on my 1980 TL320 competition bike.

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I noticed my front brake arm on the brake hub seems short, would it help to lengthen it or find a longer arm?

I remember someone posting that a good set up on my 1980 SWM 320 with Marzocchi forks is to keep the Marzocchi triple clamps and use the Betor forks? I realized that my spare/project 1980 SWM 320 has the Betor forks and triple clamps. Would it be worth it for me to put the Betor forks (after I go through them) on my competition bike with the Marzocchi triple clamps?

I was told the double ring piston last longer. Performance wise I would think you would get quicker revs from a single ring piston. From what I’ve seen trials and enduro engines Usually have double ring pistons, motocross bikes have the single ring.

Ski Doo?

Anyone have a good source for the 280 pistons? I’m going to rebuild my 1982 TL320 and will probably need a oversized piston. Heard you can use 583 Ski Doo or Sea Doo pistons. I definitely want a two ring piston.

Nope! Too cold here!

I’m just building my stand from what I have laying around the shop. It’s all cut out and drilled, I’m just waiting for a little warmer weather to weld it up in my unheated shop (my welding is done in the unheated part, my small but warm workshop is where I work on my bikes).

Yeah I got into vintage trials and have a few bikes to rebuild. Plus I bought a new Mig welder over the summer and wanted a good project to do with it. I started cutting the pieces for the stand.

Anyone build there own engine stand? I’ve used the wooden box stand for years. Decided to look into building a metal stand that rotates. Here are a few ideas I’ve found.

I wish my SWM was set up as nice as yours! I’ve had no luck finding the Aprilia clutch cover. I will have to look at the cost of the smart carb, would be nice not to worry about jetting.

Did you have to cut the stock air box boot down?

Has anyone tried a OKO carb on there SWM 320? If so how did it work?

How is the single shock mounted to frame and swingarm on the SVM? Does it have a linkage?

I have been reading them. A lot of info! Thanks! I have a newer style clutch cover from a Can Am that has the bigger actuator balls. I’m going to try it this winter. I noticed the other day my bike is leaking oil from the Kickstarter/shifter area. It leaked a couple of years ago and I replaced the seal and o ring. I will replace them again when I install new cover.

I put new shoes and cable, cleaned and lubed everything and they work much better than the Ossa I had but still not great. Any suggestions?

When I bought the bike it had a couple of clutch springs removed. It slipped way too much for my weight. I reinstalled all the springs. It’s not super hard to pull in just not a one finger pull. Thought a hydraulic setup would make it one finger.

I know ATK modified the Magura hydraulic kit to fit the ATK 406 Rotax (similar engine as the 350 SWM Jumbo). Not sure if there set up would work on the 240/280 rotary valve engine.