dozerash

Thanks! I really liked your setup, I just didn’t have the materials to accomplish that. We are only going to the grocery store now, so there is no metal bits to buy ☹️

Installed on my bike after repair.

I ended up cutting open my stock muffler with my plasma cutter and Dremel tool, worked good. Re tacked all the baffles and welded back up. Didn’t turn out too bad, wish I had a tank of Argon for my tig and done a little neater job. I might go back over it with the tig before I paint.

I found out I can use the newer cover with the larger actuator balls with the older style clutch. But the clutch works even better with the newer style inner clutch hub and pressure plate. I had the pressure plate. I found the newer inner clutch hub at my local trials shop, picked it up yesterday.

I have a newer style clutch cover with the larger actuator balls I would like to install on my 1980 SWM TL320. I would like to see if it does pull a little easier and my original cover has a small crack in it and needs repairing. I also have the newer pressure plate. Do I need anything else? The hub from the ATK (Rotax 244) parts book has a different part number than the older style SWM. Will I need to change that too? Thanks

Thanks for sending me in the right direction! I’ll start looking in the States for exhaust parts.

I really like your exhaust set up! The fact you can repack it without having to weld it again is nice. I do have a DC tig I recently picked up (it’s actually a 3 in 1, plasma cutter, dc tig and dc stick welder). I don’t have the Argon tank yet. Not that I couldn’t weld it with my mig, I just think it would look better with tig. I just don’t know if I’ll have time right now to build it like I want. Was hoping to find something to use until I have time to fabricate the old one. What are you guys using for a new perforated tube?

Anyone have any suggestions on a aftermarket muffler for my 1980 TL320? Thanks

Last week I put together a basket case SWM TL320 from boxes of parts, I’ve had it for a few years and had some time to work on it. All the seals, bearings and rod were replaced. So I was surprised when it started leaking oil. I discovered there was a small crack in the clutch cover where the Kickstarter hub was kicked too far and smashed into the clutch cover. Look there too. Yes you can take the cover off without removing the carb.

I got it, wasn’t too bad after I unbolted the skid plate.

I just seen another picture of the 2x2 SWM, it was in the snow, said 1981. Pschrauber do you have anymore pictures of the bike?

I have had a little extra time lately and been finishing up some projects. I’ve had a 1980 SWM TL320 basket case for a few years now. The engine is done with all new bearings, seals and a lot of other new parts. I’m in the process of putting the engine back in and I’m having trouble getting the swingarm to fit. I did install new swingarm bushings. Any tricks or advice on getting it to fit? I didn’t work on it for too long today and I have to go into work tomorrow but should be back on it Thursday. I also have a new seat cover to install and could use some advice putting that on. What glue do you use and and tricks stretching on the seat base? Thanks

Yeah it’s high enough (8’) I need a step ladder to get it. The doorway frame is below it, just can’t see from the pictures.

Found a good spot to store my engine stand. Rafters in my storage area.

The only thing I would have done different on the engine stand would have been to make the legs removable so the stand could be stored easier.

Just used what I had around my shop.

Engine stand is completed!

Great idea ?

That would be awesome! Keep us posted!

I just have to finish a few things and paint. Works good!

Did a little more progress today on the engine stand.

We had some warmer weather and I got a little free time to do a little more progress on my engine stand.

I might try the Betors off my spare bike, I will need to install a new fender and fork seals. I guess my SWM could turn a little sharper. Might help my results. I just wish I could find a spare set and not take them off the other bike.

I remember the Yamaha hydraulic drive AWD, I think KTM had a version too, didn’t Ohlins build that system? The Rokon moto tractor has a driveshaft through the frame with a slip clutch to a jackshaft to a chain driving the front wheel. Christini AWD also has a driveshaft and slip clutch with gears and chains to telescoping shafts that drive the front wheel. Looks like the SWM had a flex shaft that transferred power to the front wheel.

Pschrauber, sorry for not asking permission on posting the AWD SWM photos. If I knew they were yours I would have asked. Thanks for all the info on the bike, I find it very interesting that they built something like that back then. Would like to know how well it worked.