dozerash

I recently picked up a TX311 frame, exhaust, rear suspension etc. I just bought a TXR312 last night in need of a lot of work. What are the differences between the two models (besides rear brake and shock)? The frames look similar except for extra tabs on the 312 for shock, extra mount on mid muffler. On my 312 the shock is leaking oil, bearings are bad. Has wrong muffler. The 311 swingarm, shock, suspension bearings, frame, exhaust are all good. Thanks

I had a Montesa 349 that I mounted the condenser on the frame under the tank to keep it cooler. On my SWM I used a timing box I made to set points. I have since switched the ignition to electronic (about 3 or 4 years ago). I bought the kit from MotoSWM, works awesome! I switched my carb to a OKO from MidAtlantic trials, that also works awesome! They do make a OKO kit for the 240 Rotax.

Someone posted this picture on Facebook, looks like Bernie Schreiber got to try out the 2X2 SWM!

Thanks, very helpful! Look at Motoswm website, I think there was a engine service manual on there for the Rotax engine. Also try Old Knobbies both are SWM, but uses basically the same Rotax engine.

Part fits perfectly

My cover after being milled out.

This set up works well on my SWM. I’m looking to modify two other bikes I have. Not having any luck finding the newer style actuator parts.

My bike is still running great with this ignition system! No problems! The only complaint is not having the lighting coil. Has anyone been able to install a lighting coil with this system? I would rather not bother with battery lights. We have a couple of night trials, the sections are under lights but it’s nice to have a headlight on from section to section.

I’m going to be working on a friends 1985 Can Am (Armstrong) 240 (Rotax) trials bike. I have a couple of SWM 320s (280 Rotax) . So I know where to get any engine parts. The body and frame parts I’m not so sure about. We need the following: muffler... ...carb kit... ...seat... ...all cables... ...decals... ...intake tube from carb to engine...since it has the Amal carb the intake tube appears different(smaller id) SWM? ...air filter... ...rear sprocket... ...front and rear fenders ...what handlebars do you recommend?.. thanks

Yeah your right I should get rid of that bracket that someone made. I would like to fabricate a simple quick release for the seat.

This bracket was what someone had on another SWM I had. Any ideas to make this work?

I have a 1980 SWM TL320 that I have a new seat for. The old one was strapped on. Anyone have a good way to mount the seat and be able to take it off easy to work on filter? This one doesn’t have the quick release because at one time it had a metal tank. Thanks

I’m from the States, I’ve never heard of JCM?

Thanks! That’s good to know! I had a early nineties 280 Climber and remember the bottom end was similar.

I wonder how much different my engine mounts compared to a Aprillia Climber?

I’m thinking of building a air cooled mono. I have an extra rebuildable Rotax 280 trials engine and exhaust. Just need a mono chassis. Any recommendations?

Thanks! I really liked your setup, I just didn’t have the materials to accomplish that. We are only going to the grocery store now, so there is no metal bits to buy ☹️

Installed on my bike after repair.

I ended up cutting open my stock muffler with my plasma cutter and Dremel tool, worked good. Re tacked all the baffles and welded back up. Didn’t turn out too bad, wish I had a tank of Argon for my tig and done a little neater job. I might go back over it with the tig before I paint.

I found out I can use the newer cover with the larger actuator balls with the older style clutch. But the clutch works even better with the newer style inner clutch hub and pressure plate. I had the pressure plate. I found the newer inner clutch hub at my local trials shop, picked it up yesterday.

I have a newer style clutch cover with the larger actuator balls I would like to install on my 1980 SWM TL320. I would like to see if it does pull a little easier and my original cover has a small crack in it and needs repairing. I also have the newer pressure plate. Do I need anything else? The hub from the ATK (Rotax 244) parts book has a different part number than the older style SWM. Will I need to change that too? Thanks

Thanks for sending me in the right direction! I’ll start looking in the States for exhaust parts.

I really like your exhaust set up! The fact you can repack it without having to weld it again is nice. I do have a DC tig I recently picked up (it’s actually a 3 in 1, plasma cutter, dc tig and dc stick welder). I don’t have the Argon tank yet. Not that I couldn’t weld it with my mig, I just think it would look better with tig. I just don’t know if I’ll have time right now to build it like I want. Was hoping to find something to use until I have time to fabricate the old one. What are you guys using for a new perforated tube?

Anyone have any suggestions on a aftermarket muffler for my 1980 TL320? Thanks

Last week I put together a basket case SWM TL320 from boxes of parts, I’ve had it for a few years and had some time to work on it. All the seals, bearings and rod were replaced. So I was surprised when it started leaking oil. I discovered there was a small crack in the clutch cover where the Kickstarter hub was kicked too far and smashed into the clutch cover. Look there too. Yes you can take the cover off without removing the carb.