retromlc

Update, got a message saying it a broken tooth on the main shaft sprocket, parts arrived next day from lampkin, all together£135, pretty reasonable. Couple of hours and all back together, ran perfect at this weekend trial

Having spoken to him he's had it all apart and selector fork is not damaged and has intermittent selection, but had locked up again,the selector drum looks fine so engine out for a good look inside. there was evidence of water contamination in gearbox oil with damage to clutch steel's,

Thank for the critics, firstly i am not there i am posting on his behalf, so only repeating what he is saying, i am not asking you to do it but for some advice based on your experience, he has had the bike for a year but until the frame was swapped over wasn't ridden, which we did perfectly so we obviously have abilities.but not knowledge of the idiosyncratics of these particular bikes. Hence the questions.

Ok hes had the clutch apart and all.seem.to be in order, anything else before we have to split the engine?

Basically he bought the bike about a year ago, it got a new frame eventually under warranty, and we have slowly swapped it all over, this event was its first real outing ( nothing in the engine was tampered with, it was just transferred) the bike was running perfect and then he commented he couldn't select first, i had a go on it and it had all the other gears, then rocking it back and forth we got first, he was riding it and i think it jumped out of 1st, he clicked it into first and that was it, no more gears available and couldn't get it out of first. I asked him if he could change gear while riding it on the flat without using the clutch, he hadn't tried to.thats really all I know

Thanks for the responses,all very helpful, any further information gladly received

With regards to the clutch,what should he be looking for?

My mate has the above bike. Today initially it wouldn't select 1st then he got it into 1st and couldn't select any other gears. Can the gearbox be pulled without splitting the crankcases? Is it a cassette type gearbox? Advise please

I drink,smoke,and have a bad bike habit.But with my 300RR enduro and 4T 250 Evo I'm worringley happy at the moment.

tbh most spend their lives in the corner of the garage,hardly used,an old one can be excellent value,unfortunately I like shiney things

it's £3850,that's 2015 money, and the 15 will have the newer engine,plus 3 or 4 trials on it and it'll be an old bike and worth £2100. a good bike will be £2000/2200, private and about £2500 trade

So my mate has bought a '16 250 2T evo on ebay,looked spot on and appears good,we noticed the headrace seemed lose so we took a look,the steering column appears to be stuck on the headrace?? and more worringly the outter cup on the top appears to have play against the headstock?? Paid for to a private individual via bank transfer so not sure about returning it,The bike was not viewed prior to purchase and collected by courier...i know i know what you could say but we have bought bikes like this in the past and have always been happy,this is an odd one as I often have had to replace headrace kits when I have bought a bike as I go through everything but I have never had it where a bearing had stuck to the steering stem,even on some old rubbish fixer-ups I have bought let alone on a '16 bike,any positive help would be good thanks in advance

I have a Beta 250 4T,I think it's well put together,It's a carb as opposed to the Honda FI,I have been told that the 4RT is very snappy with the F.I. I was also advised that the latest Beta 300 is more urgent with the power,my'13 250 is mellow but I find it very easy to ride,steers well and grips very well in muddy conditions. I expect an expert would find the power lacking but for me it is very predictable

they said that about enduro bikes,in 2005/6 it was 80% 4t at events,now it's 90% 2T, faster,lighter cheaper to run

I have a Beta 250 4T and all my mates have 2t. personally I like it a lot,not just because i own one.my "style" is more flowing and i think it's good for this,I haven't tried firing at stuff as I am getting over an injury but my better rider friends seem to have no trouble doing it on my 4T..there's a lot of mud in Kent,less rocks and I think it grips better,the style is different,it looks like with a 2T you accerlerate hard up a slope then throttle off and let the bike carry you over,with the 4T if you do that there is more engine braking so you need to maintain the throttle to prevent the bike slowing and front digging in,once i got that it is great,the 250 has plenty of mellow power.,

cheers for the replies,looks like it was the washers

ok thanks i used that term as that's what Mr Farley called it.I have replaced the washers with copper ones but haven't put more fuel in yet. With the lever in the down position will that shut the fuel off or does it only work when it's running? sorry but my last trials bike was a TY175 so it's new to me and info is not readily available.my other local trials shop understandable doesn't want to share info just bring it in and they will fix it,Even thought i've spent a lot with them over the years info apparently isn't free (not g farley btw they have been handy)

ok it doesn't mention different weights in the manual just different levels?

does anyone know what weight oil goes in the forks? I thought it was 5wt bu it lists a type oj-racing-01 but what weight is that?

dowty?

hI...again,I've noticed a smell of fuel in the garage lately,checking my 2013 4t Evo I have noticed a very slight weap of fuel that seems to be coming from behind the fuel pump/ fuel tap? is this common? apparently there is no rebuild kit if the seals have failed,Gordon Farley who supplied the bike thinks it might be the copper washers that bolt the unit to the frame tank,they haven't seen the bike but it's a 140 mile round trip.Any clues<I'm hoping not to have to replace the part as they've said it's over £100

Thanks bilks Ive tracked the bearings but couldn't find the owners manual on the Beta USA site only spares ,looks like I have lots of work as owner didn't use it much but probably jet washed it by the looks of it,,rear linkage is fine and I will check swing-arm bearing tomorrow, fork oil is a little milky so will swap it out.

hi all,located in kent,looking to replace the head race bearing on the above bike (why can't people do routine work on their bikes?) can anybody give me the serial numbers so I can get them from my local bearing shop? or what is a good replacement make. also while i'm there I will change the fork oil,what is the oil brand,weight and amount you fine works? thanks in advance

i have a 250 4/,does a pipe improve power? if so which one

not that I am an expert but I think you need to allow your knees to bend as the rear makes contact as when the rear hits the tyres your legs look locked and that is caterpulting you towards the bars,if you allow your knees to bend then the bike moves under you and won't kick you off as seen in most attempts