retromlc

I've had my 250 4T since 2913, had no issues with it whatsoever, Honda is Honda, so the build quality is there,bit the Beta has been spot on

I never use the hot start, just a gentle kick with the throttle wide open and it always starts

I have a '13 250 4t that is a smooth bike to ride

I think the bars are about right slightly forward of the forks, git quite a bit of preload in forks, don't know actual sag, seems to be about 30% of travel

I can't find the setting in manual, my bike tends to want to tuck the front in downhill turns, i know betas have a tendency to tuck the front, mine are 10mm ATM,but watching a Beta set up video they seem to have theirs about 7mm any suggestions to make the front better as it feels like i have to physically push back on the bars as I can feel the front wanting to turn in to tuck

I would remove the rear caliper and set it as low as possible leaving no high points push the pistons out with the bake brake then force them back in to push air out the caliper, leave it a day ,then back bleed the caliper pushing air and old fluid up into the resevoir.

On the factory 19 they say they use braktec equipment as an upgrade, maybe look them up? Unless they are already on the 18's anyone know?

Been on there about 2.5 years, so would be in the time frame you mentioned

I have some tubes, but HD enduro ones, I'll see if I can get thin ones. I like the grip i have with the bike.

Cheers,. It's usually under those conditions, I'll swap it out

It doesn't have a leaky valve and holds pressure ,but sometimes if i run about 3.5 psi it'll deflate. Observer yesterday said this brand os a soft sidewall, whereas the Michelin has a firmer sidewall, I can't remember the brand IWC maybe? Anyway any thoughts about this?

I like the look of the factory 300 4T, i know it looks the same but thinking of getting one and selling my 20 hours old '13 250 4T. Concerned 300 will feel heavier and have too much torque for muddy South East conditions, thoughts anyone?

What weight are the std springs for? Im 82.5 kg, the rear spring is black (if they're colour coded)

update,I decided to get the clearances done by a shop so i got the engine free ,but still in the bike and whipped it down to Inta M/C,bought a new plug,and HT lead,charged me for an hour,they said valves were a little tight,got it home pulled the rear shock and stripped the carb,which was clean as a new,but nice to be sure.put it back together and it fired second kick,checked fluids a couple of times.warmed it up and dropped the oil,so all good. Valves are a little louder now,not whisper quiet,but it was getting harder to start over the last few trials and I just went out and it fired first kick.

I know mate,it's a good sewing machine,gets up hills and does zips really well too

oh Miner that's harsh,but fair,might be another Retromlc,lot's of us about lol,.i'm heading to Inta m/C tomorrow to let them do the valves I've prepped it so only 30 minutes labour,the clacking noise maybe a sticky camchain adjuster but I'll get it checked out,i do like the EVO 4t,but for enduro it's 2T all day long

Hi all,i've looked through the Beta USA support sight and found the engine manual but can't see the proceedure for doing the valve clearances? is there a link,i've got the engine loose and free of the rad ready to drop the engine forward in the frame to do the valves but can anybody give me a link to doing it ,cheers in advance. reason for doing this is,i don't use the bike often but start it maybe once a month to keep it running ,the other day it was a bitch to start,when it did it sounded a bit metallic,like an exhaust baffle was lose but in the engine area not the end section of the exhaust,but for the 10 seconds it ran the engine was whisper quiet,cleaned the plug and eventually it fired up,was still a bit clattery then cleared and was fine,it ran perfectly the whole day started no problems and was perfect,tried starting it today and it won't start.I will be getting a new plug but thought i should check the valves and get the carb out while I'm there and give it a clean,the bike has only done 20 hrs max in the 2 years I've had it and apparently the previous owner was 75 and never used it according to the shop(blah blah blah) but to be fair it was very clean with hardly a scuff anywhere so I think it was under 10 hours before my purchase

I have the 250 and think it's a really good bike

New cam profile for the 300 throttle,but unless they did it last year(or the year before) they appear to have dropped the 250 4/, I've had my 250 4/ a long time and don't plan on a change,even with bold new graffix.

Mine was leaking i think i took it off put a new washer behind it and did it up, took about 10 minutes

Why don't to mill some off the flywheel weight, take 1/2 oz off and try it, keep going till you get where you want, no cost involved, if you have a milling machine

I think in the real world, for this gent he should buy which one looks the best to him, i doubt most novices could appreciate the difference in suspension as most, including myself struggle to clean a red route. It's a toy atm and as he progresses it will become a work tool and won't sweat about damage if he cleans a tough section.

That's excellent, ive done 10 hours in 18 months so the bike should last me 68 years hahaha

You have done 360 hours on the bike? Impressed, has engine had a rebuild, new piston or any major problems?

I'm a novice, i ride in the south East so not many rocks but lots of mud, i have a evo 250 4t and its a great bike, smooth and easy, but will just keep pulling up climbs , i run premium fuel and i haven't had any carb issues, regular fuel is pretty variable and crappy. I've ridden a 300 2t and in the sloppy mud it's hard to find grip, I will say the Evo 250 2t is a lovely bike, i would consider that, but i have no regrets with the little 4t