billyt

As Mr Wobble said Drive the front wheel into the drum. Rule of thumb drive the front wheel 75% up the face of the obstacle. This will load the front end and force the skid plate and bike upwards. Placing or just skimming the front wheel on the top of the barrel will do nothing for you but driving the skid pan into the obstacle. In the picture you seem to be keeping pressure on the back wheel and the back wheel is flat on the ground. That says your are not unloading the rear suspension or bending your legs/knees.

Headline says it all. I would like to know what he is on about. Can anybody translate? www.youtube.com/watch?v=lM-eoFs0qw0

Mr Fracy Since it is a Fantic Section you can actually use Poutine in the tranny. Apparently the clutch works great on this stuff. Any New York fries store should be able hook you up with a bucket of the stuff. Let us know how it works out

The dog in the scenario is the FIM. Seems stopping is scaring them LOL

And practicing one of the American constitutional amendments of free speech.

Funtrials Great read, bang on, well stated. Lets collect money, buy him a plane ticket and send him to the FIM offices to speak for us on this matter. Nothing like being under the influence to bring out the best in us. So what you on? What beverage are you participating in? Bravo...........

WOW Talk about over kill............

Anybody see the bad starting technique. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-HLKgDgMuc

b40rt A dinna ken wit a B40 bike is.

"I myself keep thinking I will find an oil that lets my bike shift For the love of god why can't a 2010 model motorcycle find neutral just once with the engine running!!" Jeff, A wee tip, on trials bike you find neutral with your heel. You change gears with your foot and shift into neutral with your heel. Strange I know but that is a technique that I find works for me and some other people. BillyT

I use this oil, always have in either 2T or 4T Trials bikes. It one of the best out there. With that been said it still must be compromising to be able to perform all three functions, i.e. Clutch, Gearbox, Engine. Click on picture to read the writing at the bottom of the bottle.

Hey Mark No not me! My legs are not short, they go all the way to the ground and touch my feet.

Hey TLTEL Or he is out spending lots of money on new CDI boxes, Flywheel pullers, Drill bits, etc when all he really needs is a big heavy left boot weighed down with lead shot and more left leg muscles LOL Wullie Baxter needs tae ge him a bowl o Scots Porridge oats. Two rolls n square Lorne sausages an a bottel o Irn-Bru

I think this was a clean? The bike certanly was clean after this LOL

Yep........ I helped Noah with some carb issues he was having with his ark!

"If I said pistons spin round and round one would expect another to explain that they go up and down" What if they did both? I think you will find there are lots of well qualified technical people on this site who teach, engineer, or design things. Many are in the industry or in automotive and have a solid grasp of technical concepts/issues. All sorts of knowledge has been shared by these guys through the years, helping each other when we can. I look forward to you being part of that group. I am just an old fart on this site that has hung around since Andy was a wee a bairn in his nappy

I think the point I was trying to make: 1. When the question is posed about "what oil" they are really asking what is the best oil for my clutch. 2. I have never heard of gears going bad etc in a trials gear box due to the wrong type of oil selected. 3. If we purely choose a liquid for the clutch and the clutch alone so that the clutch performed at its best would the owner who used the best clutch type liquid ever experience a gear box problem in the time they own the bike? Would a problem even occur? 4. If we did choose to use a liquid that only satisfied the clutch's needs what would that liquid be?

I agree Dave............ All technique............... One other thing that caught my attention tonight when I fired up my 300cc Beta. The Beta is a left hand start I am right handed so right footed. This makes my left foot/leg the weaker foot/leg (in theory) so I am not as adapted / strong with my left foot/leg and less aggressive as I would be if it where right hand start. I think this may be the case with other right handed Beta riders trying to start a big bore 300cc with their left foot/leg ??????

Quote: "I have spent many years explaining how technical stuff works" As most of us have on this forum. In fact there are many guys on here who do it rather well and have done so for many, many years! Some of us even do it for a living!

After many years on this forum and the prior Trails Action forum the many times posed question of "Which is the best oil to use in the gear box" has me thinking. After close to 35 years of riding trials I have never heard a rider state "took my gear box apart and the teeth where all wore out and galded" "my gears are all worn down" "my gears have too much play due to wear on them". The point I am trying to make is that how many gear trains did we have go bad due to choosing the wrong type of oil ? I would guess none? I guess what we are really asking when posing the question "Which is the best oil to use in the gear box" is, what oil works best for my clutch in the way of not grabbing, smoothness of action etc. The actual oil's gear performance is secondary or assumed with preference given to clutch performance. But are they exclusive, meaning a great oil for the clutch is a crap oil for the gears or vise versa! Are these oils we are choosing a compromise? When we visit a motorcycle shop to buy oil do we really read the label on the bottle with gear lubrication performance in mind or clutch performance in mind? If we choose a lubricating liquid purely based upon clutch performance, and to hell with GOOD or GREAT (just have basic lubrication) gear lubrication, would we know the results in short order? In other words some of us don't keep a bike that long for an issue like worn out gears to manifest itself during a bikes initial ownership? I know if we used the best type of oil for gear train lubrication alone it would make the clutch work like crap! With this being said what clutch lubricating liquids would we use if the clutch performance was the only criteria? I have some in mind, but would like to hear others thoughts on this matter! Dan, this is right up your alley mon ami! Your thoughts guys!

Clarky Try this to help you get the technique down. Disconnect the spark plug wire. Now push the bike over practicing good swift hard full stroke foot pumps or rather pushes (do not turn the throttle when doing so as it will flood the engine) . You can do this without fear of it kicking back on you and allowing you to develop your technique. Once you feel you are getting good hard full stroke pushes with full travel then re-connect spark plug wire. For clarity, calling it a "Kick starter" or telling you give it hard fast kickstarts is a bad misnomer as you really do not want to kick it as this will surely cause it to back fire. Not to be anal about the word but we really should be saying "push it down with your foot". When you kick it down with your foot energy alone it will stop once you meet resistance, where as a foot placed firmly on a partly loaded kick starter and a bent leg loaded and then pushed down fast, hard and full stroke is really what we are after. DO NOT PUSH DOWN WITH YOUR FOOT/LEG UNTILL IT IS IN FULL CONTACT WITH A LOADED KICK STARTER. YOUR FOOT AND LEG SHOULD BE FULLY LOADED AND PRIMED TO STRIKE NOT TRAVELING THOUGH THE AIR ON A HARD DOWNWARDS PATH AND THEN MEETING UP WITH A KICK STARTER LEVER. Load the kick starter by pushing it down gently with your foot, get it just past TDC, and then push hard, and fast, and all the way down. Cheers BillyT

0007 I say black you say white. The goal her is to help Clarky, not to try and prove me wrong for the sake of doing so. You have your experiences I have mine. I spent all weekend (Saturday & Sunday) riding and getting to know how to start my new 300cc Beta. The technique I stated works for me and I will stand by what I said.

I have a brand new Beta 300cc EVO 2T Factory that I picked up last week. The bike runs great, no CDI problems, no changes. If your bike runs great once started then there is no CDI issue or wood ruff key issue. If you have no pre detonation (pinking) issue once the bike actually runs then then pre detonation is not an issue. The bike will kick back when it is not pushed through its entire stroke PERIOD. I had a 250cc Beta before the 300cc Beta and I had to modify or be more forceful and committed in starting the 300cc. I do not not have any kick back now that I learned how to take the kick starter all the way through. The bigger the bore the more pronounced this affect will be. Once you get the kick starter all the way down it will not and can not kick back even if the engine is running. Your are experiencing a mechanical issue (starting technique) NOT a CDI issue. Even if it is a pre detonation at start up, the force you apply through the committed aggressive long and fast travel of the kick starter will drive it on through the pre detonation. A little mind game that was taught to me is: Stop trying to start the bike by kicking it down until it starts. Instead think of a technique goal or action where you are trying to just get the kick starter down all the way and overcome the resistance in a quick forceful maner. Once you get this technique down the bike starting is just an attribute of this action. The other KEY is the speed in which you push the kick starter down. The perfect blend of force and speed is critical in starting a big bore bike. If you where to analyze the stroke of the piston to the stroke of the kick starter, you would find that if the piston reaches the firing point before the kick starter nears the bottom and the first fire of the plug ignites the fuel successfully the bike will try to kick back. The goal is to get the kick starter down near the bottom of its stroke before the piston reaches the top of its firing stroke. The other little trick is to pre load the piston with the kick starter so that it is just broke over TDC and has to travel down and then up on the next kick. In other words push the kick starter down gently until you just get it past TDC and then give it the almighty fast and heavy kick with a long travel.

Clarky I have a 300cc Beta. If you do not kick it COMPLETELY through its stroke it WILL kick back on you! The key is to kick COMPLETELY through its stroke EVERY TIME. A bike will rarely kick back when all the way through its stroke as it gets past its cranking angle once fully down. This can be proven by being able to hold the kick starter fully down even though the bike has started. The bike can be running but the starter will not kick it will just sit there and grind the crap out of the gears. NOT recommended to try, but just said to prove my point.