billyt

Zippy For you it is 74.8%

Clarky Its not about winning! There is no competition! You got what you wanted from this forum and that is the point. What I was concerned about was guys buying big bore 300cc not using correct starting techniques (not saying you used poor form to start it), the bike kicks back and they say the bike is broke, needs fixing, we run around changing CDI boxes etc when in fact the potential to kick is part of the course for a big bore bike. If we just wanted to smooth the big bore bike out by modifying the timing and at the same time lower the potential of a kick back then we would have taken a quicker succinct path to help you with the kick back issue. No harm, no foul. Now go kick some butt on that smoothed out 300cc PS: To smooth it out even more buy a S3 flywheel weight. I run one my 300cc and I can not imagine a 300 cc Beta without one as it really makes a difference!

Clarky If your bike is the way you like it then good for you, problem over with, post over with. In reality there was nothing to fix just to modify the FIX part was your words. Any way, glad you got it sorted out. Where are you fae?

Clarky The bike is now changed from the original specs that Beta put out. So you are saying that a standard 300cc bike with standard timing from the factory kicks back and everybody should now change their timing????? Not convinced that changing the timing solved the original problem only camouflaged it! But hey if that works for you then go for it! Cheers

As Mr Wobble said Drive the front wheel into the drum. Rule of thumb drive the front wheel 75% up the face of the obstacle. This will load the front end and force the skid plate and bike upwards. Placing or just skimming the front wheel on the top of the barrel will do nothing for you but driving the skid pan into the obstacle. In the picture you seem to be keeping pressure on the back wheel and the back wheel is flat on the ground. That says your are not unloading the rear suspension or bending your legs/knees.

Headline says it all. I would like to know what he is on about. Can anybody translate? www.youtube.com/watch?v=lM-eoFs0qw0

Mr Fracy Since it is a Fantic Section you can actually use Poutine in the tranny. Apparently the clutch works great on this stuff. Any New York fries store should be able hook you up with a bucket of the stuff. Let us know how it works out

The dog in the scenario is the FIM. Seems stopping is scaring them LOL

And practicing one of the American constitutional amendments of free speech.

Funtrials Great read, bang on, well stated. Lets collect money, buy him a plane ticket and send him to the FIM offices to speak for us on this matter. Nothing like being under the influence to bring out the best in us. So what you on? What beverage are you participating in? Bravo...........

WOW Talk about over kill............

Anybody see the bad starting technique. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-HLKgDgMuc

b40rt A dinna ken wit a B40 bike is.

"I myself keep thinking I will find an oil that lets my bike shift For the love of god why can't a 2010 model motorcycle find neutral just once with the engine running!!" Jeff, A wee tip, on trials bike you find neutral with your heel. You change gears with your foot and shift into neutral with your heel. Strange I know but that is a technique that I find works for me and some other people. BillyT

I use this oil, always have in either 2T or 4T Trials bikes. It one of the best out there. With that been said it still must be compromising to be able to perform all three functions, i.e. Clutch, Gearbox, Engine. Click on picture to read the writing at the bottom of the bottle.

Hey Mark No not me! My legs are not short, they go all the way to the ground and touch my feet.

Hey TLTEL Or he is out spending lots of money on new CDI boxes, Flywheel pullers, Drill bits, etc when all he really needs is a big heavy left boot weighed down with lead shot and more left leg muscles LOL Wullie Baxter needs tae ge him a bowl o Scots Porridge oats. Two rolls n square Lorne sausages an a bottel o Irn-Bru

I think this was a clean? The bike certanly was clean after this LOL

Yep........ I helped Noah with some carb issues he was having with his ark!

"If I said pistons spin round and round one would expect another to explain that they go up and down" What if they did both? I think you will find there are lots of well qualified technical people on this site who teach, engineer, or design things. Many are in the industry or in automotive and have a solid grasp of technical concepts/issues. All sorts of knowledge has been shared by these guys through the years, helping each other when we can. I look forward to you being part of that group. I am just an old fart on this site that has hung around since Andy was a wee a bairn in his nappy

I think the point I was trying to make: 1. When the question is posed about "what oil" they are really asking what is the best oil for my clutch. 2. I have never heard of gears going bad etc in a trials gear box due to the wrong type of oil selected. 3. If we purely choose a liquid for the clutch and the clutch alone so that the clutch performed at its best would the owner who used the best clutch type liquid ever experience a gear box problem in the time they own the bike? Would a problem even occur? 4. If we did choose to use a liquid that only satisfied the clutch's needs what would that liquid be?

I agree Dave............ All technique............... One other thing that caught my attention tonight when I fired up my 300cc Beta. The Beta is a left hand start I am right handed so right footed. This makes my left foot/leg the weaker foot/leg (in theory) so I am not as adapted / strong with my left foot/leg and less aggressive as I would be if it where right hand start. I think this may be the case with other right handed Beta riders trying to start a big bore 300cc with their left foot/leg ??????

Quote: "I have spent many years explaining how technical stuff works" As most of us have on this forum. In fact there are many guys on here who do it rather well and have done so for many, many years! Some of us even do it for a living!

After many years on this forum and the prior Trails Action forum the many times posed question of "Which is the best oil to use in the gear box" has me thinking. After close to 35 years of riding trials I have never heard a rider state "took my gear box apart and the teeth where all wore out and galded" "my gears are all worn down" "my gears have too much play due to wear on them". The point I am trying to make is that how many gear trains did we have go bad due to choosing the wrong type of oil ? I would guess none? I guess what we are really asking when posing the question "Which is the best oil to use in the gear box" is, what oil works best for my clutch in the way of not grabbing, smoothness of action etc. The actual oil's gear performance is secondary or assumed with preference given to clutch performance. But are they exclusive, meaning a great oil for the clutch is a crap oil for the gears or vise versa! Are these oils we are choosing a compromise? When we visit a motorcycle shop to buy oil do we really read the label on the bottle with gear lubrication performance in mind or clutch performance in mind? If we choose a lubricating liquid purely based upon clutch performance, and to hell with GOOD or GREAT (just have basic lubrication) gear lubrication, would we know the results in short order? In other words some of us don't keep a bike that long for an issue like worn out gears to manifest itself during a bikes initial ownership? I know if we used the best type of oil for gear train lubrication alone it would make the clutch work like crap! With this being said what clutch lubricating liquids would we use if the clutch performance was the only criteria? I have some in mind, but would like to hear others thoughts on this matter! Dan, this is right up your alley mon ami! Your thoughts guys!

Clarky Try this to help you get the technique down. Disconnect the spark plug wire. Now push the bike over practicing good swift hard full stroke foot pumps or rather pushes (do not turn the throttle when doing so as it will flood the engine) . You can do this without fear of it kicking back on you and allowing you to develop your technique. Once you feel you are getting good hard full stroke pushes with full travel then re-connect spark plug wire. For clarity, calling it a "Kick starter" or telling you give it hard fast kickstarts is a bad misnomer as you really do not want to kick it as this will surely cause it to back fire. Not to be anal about the word but we really should be saying "push it down with your foot". When you kick it down with your foot energy alone it will stop once you meet resistance, where as a foot placed firmly on a partly loaded kick starter and a bent leg loaded and then pushed down fast, hard and full stroke is really what we are after. DO NOT PUSH DOWN WITH YOUR FOOT/LEG UNTILL IT IS IN FULL CONTACT WITH A LOADED KICK STARTER. YOUR FOOT AND LEG SHOULD BE FULLY LOADED AND PRIMED TO STRIKE NOT TRAVELING THOUGH THE AIR ON A HARD DOWNWARDS PATH AND THEN MEETING UP WITH A KICK STARTER LEVER. Load the kick starter by pushing it down gently with your foot, get it just past TDC, and then push hard, and fast, and all the way down. Cheers BillyT