billyt

0007 I say black you say white. The goal her is to help Clarky, not to try and prove me wrong for the sake of doing so. You have your experiences I have mine. I spent all weekend (Saturday & Sunday) riding and getting to know how to start my new 300cc Beta. The technique I stated works for me and I will stand by what I said.

I have a brand new Beta 300cc EVO 2T Factory that I picked up last week. The bike runs great, no CDI problems, no changes. If your bike runs great once started then there is no CDI issue or wood ruff key issue. If you have no pre detonation (pinking) issue once the bike actually runs then then pre detonation is not an issue. The bike will kick back when it is not pushed through its entire stroke PERIOD. I had a 250cc Beta before the 300cc Beta and I had to modify or be more forceful and committed in starting the 300cc. I do not not have any kick back now that I learned how to take the kick starter all the way through. The bigger the bore the more pronounced this affect will be. Once you get the kick starter all the way down it will not and can not kick back even if the engine is running. Your are experiencing a mechanical issue (starting technique) NOT a CDI issue. Even if it is a pre detonation at start up, the force you apply through the committed aggressive long and fast travel of the kick starter will drive it on through the pre detonation. A little mind game that was taught to me is: Stop trying to start the bike by kicking it down until it starts. Instead think of a technique goal or action where you are trying to just get the kick starter down all the way and overcome the resistance in a quick forceful maner. Once you get this technique down the bike starting is just an attribute of this action. The other KEY is the speed in which you push the kick starter down. The perfect blend of force and speed is critical in starting a big bore bike. If you where to analyze the stroke of the piston to the stroke of the kick starter, you would find that if the piston reaches the firing point before the kick starter nears the bottom and the first fire of the plug ignites the fuel successfully the bike will try to kick back. The goal is to get the kick starter down near the bottom of its stroke before the piston reaches the top of its firing stroke. The other little trick is to pre load the piston with the kick starter so that it is just broke over TDC and has to travel down and then up on the next kick. In other words push the kick starter down gently until you just get it past TDC and then give it the almighty fast and heavy kick with a long travel.

Clarky I have a 300cc Beta. If you do not kick it COMPLETELY through its stroke it WILL kick back on you! The key is to kick COMPLETELY through its stroke EVERY TIME. A bike will rarely kick back when all the way through its stroke as it gets past its cranking angle once fully down. This can be proven by being able to hold the kick starter fully down even though the bike has started. The bike can be running but the starter will not kick it will just sit there and grind the crap out of the gears. NOT recommended to try, but just said to prove my point.

If you did NOT have this circular play then you WOULD have a problem. The piston has to some what float in the cylinder head as the centre of the barrel, as it bolts down to the cases will never be deadly accurate. That is also one of the jobs of the piston rings to help seal this slight non concentric play. A little bit of play left and right at the piston pin A little bit of front to back from the con rod A little bit from the piston as it fits in the rings All this equals some play.

A couple of things: The flywheel threads should be the opposite of the flywheel spinning direction. The taper on the crank shaft and the taper on the flywheel mating is what keeps them turning together. The flywheel nut is there to facilitate that tight taper relationship. Never put grease or anything else on the flywheel taper or crank shaft external taper. As for the torque settings this is easy to find by finding the size of the crank shaft size and looking up a torque spec for that size bolt. The bike manufacturers do not determine torque setting on bolts but rather there are international standards that every good engineering department uses. So measure the crank at the threads, it it is 18mm then look up the torque spec for a 18mm bolt. DO NOT USE LOCTITE on the threads as torque specs are for dry fits.

Dan All of the above you said not withstanding. One other thing I found was that the Fat Bar clamps inside diameter does not fit the outside diameter of the fat bars. Basically the bar clamps are only clamping on a small circumference of the bars causing it to jerk or wiggle when dropping off something other than a blade of grass.? It is easy to check by either using your wife's lipstick (or yours) coating the inside of the bar clamps tighten down and then loosen and remove looking for the lipstick witness marks on the bars to how much it is actually contacting the bar circumference. With a Beta 4T I owned it was not much holding the bars on and it would clunk quite a bit until I matched the bar clamps circumference to the bar circumference. A long shot I know but it was reality on that particular bike. On a side note: On any bike that has bar clamps with a small dot on them (i.e. Montesa) it is imperative that one matches up the dots on bar clamps and triple tree stanchions and then tightens down the side with the dots first. Once that is done tighten the non dot side to preference. WHY? Because the bar clamps with dots on them are not even and if you turn it upside down you will notice that one leg is taller than the other. They want one side tightened down mating to the surface of the triple clamps and the other side arcing down across the bars. Non dotted bar clamps are meant to bridge across bending evenly over the bars as one tightens them down side by side.

Anything that is subjective can not be a rule! Period. If rules are open to subjectivity then there will be many interpretations of a given rule.

Two two stroke carb does not have an emulsion tube. Emulsion tubes are for four strokes.

Françoise Claudez

Hey Mark If you do not like the first video posted then how about this one then?

I was just about to say the same thing. He is quite a rider.

Is this Bou's twin?

Seems Barry is a stand up block....... Welcome to the club.............. Us sold farts will help when ever we can if we understand the question, problem. Buckfast.......... stick that up yer bum. Send me a bottle of Irn-Bru............ LOL Cheers

Yes, pop down to CVS (A Chemist in the USA) and get some Vagisal. Could be a yeast infection. At least your exhaust port is okay? Do not let the piston get close to the exhaust port until you have blown out out the exhaust port. Lets us know how you make out (no pun intended).

Barry You wrote; "Hi there bike been running well but left petrol tap on and fouled the plug so cleaned plug and checked piston crown and it has a layer of dirty oil . piston has no lateral play eny ideas" What is there in your post that suggest or hints to you took the exhaust off to reseal it? I was not the only one that was confused by your post. You stated: I left the petrol on. It fouled the plug, Cleaned the plug, checked the piston crown it has a layer of dirty oil on it. No side play on the piston. These are all statements. We are well aware that carbon deposits form on the piston crown so what was the question, what was it you wanted ideas on? What did you expect to find on top of the piston crown, custard? Please educate us on how you could possible determine there was no lateral side play on the piston by checking through the exhaust port? Was your post a question or a statement of dirty oil on the piston crown? We dont read minds........ Glasweigians do other things with there head like given Glesga kisses Like This Quote MultiQuote

This is equivalent to: I rode my bike on Sunday parked it in the garage and I noticed Monday it had dirt on the tyres! The bigger questions why you pulled the head off just because you let the fuel tap on?

Sounds like Cope's HARD drive has a virus..... Ask a doctor for a prescription for these.....

HAM Maybe some DHMO got into Copes machine, we should have it tested ASAP

From the back... The handling must be BAD......

Real car seen in Texas car lot for sale.

Hey Mr Ham You wrote "Oh and by the way the word Phoenix is spelt so, not Pheonix Ok, you've genuinely lost me on this one, what's it about?" Your handle info below and the spelling of Phoenix. Or maybe you where on DHMO at the time "Dont Hate My Obsessiveness" With with all things Canadian period to notice? Location:N.E. England - Rund Wor Way Bike:Sherco 290-05 Club:Jurreh Sinclurs.... Pheonix Personaly I would spell it your way, BUT the vast majorty of the world spells it Phoenix.

I have never seen one of these before........... And how many did you or Bob sell LOL

www.motorspecial.it/sezioni/moto_e_la_storia_del_fuoristrada/beta_tr_35.htm This is the link to it above. TR34C Is Trials blah blah Campione or Champion.

I just verified that and you are correct. I stand corrected. I guess they did not make it across the pond as I never saw one over her.