billyt

Class B 360nm UV light?

Digger Mikuni sells the carbs as an off the shelf OEM (Original Equipment Part) to Beta. The carbs are set at the Mikuni factory for a generic bike as they were used on various dirt bike models. If Mikuni set them all for Beta all the other carbs would be off. It is up to the OEM bike manufacturer or after market person who buys these carbs to open each one of them up and adjust them accordingly. Beta is not about to open up several thousand carbs and adjust them. They bought carbs on a bulk purchase hence the amount. This carb is basically produced now only as a replacement carb as no new model dirt bike other than the Beta comes with this carb on it from the factory. Also it is only certain parts of the world that suffers from this problem. Since they have no idea on the Beta production line what bikes are going where in the world it is easier to leave them stock ie (how they came from the Mikuni factory).

BillyT BillyT

AOHVA's Response to Quebec Trail Closures December 13, 2004 The Honorable David Coutts, Alberta Sustainable Resource Development, Legislature Office # 203, 10800-97 Avenue, Edmonton, Alberta T5K 2B6 Dear Mr. Coutts: Re: Quebec lawsuit

More power for the 125cc easy. Change the timing. Take the jug off have the base machined down approx .005>.010. Take the carb off, put a sleeve in it to take it down from 26mm to 24mm or even 22mm. Do not use Boyseen reeds as the will take away your bottom end on a 125cc big time. This is due to the reeds being predominatly made for a 250cc and the little 125cc does not have enough vacuum to open the big reed efficently. As for the removing the reed stops, DO NOT REMOVE THE REED STOPS ON ANY REEDS>>PERIOD> The pro motocrossors have their engine rebuilt every race or two therfore the engine rebuilder can check for cracks or fatique in the reeds. There by letting them remove the reed stops. Trials riders very rairly rebuild their engines so any problems with the reeds will not be noticed. The stops are there for a reason and the general guy thinks he knows better and removes them. Believe me when I tell you I have seen several trials engines were the guy removed the stops and the reeds eventualy cracked. When this happens the reed gets sucked into the engine causing very expensive damage. Trials engines do not rev high enough to take advantage of any stop removal. In all reality you will lose perfomance in a trials engine as the reed moves open further as it starts to flutter the further it opens. Cheers BillyT

Alan No changes will be noticed. This is a very simple answer. The reason these fuel blends are manufactured is to afford someone to run higher compression ratios and some other engine changes. They can then take advantage of the mechanical changes by using a different fuel blend. Simply using a higher octane purely by itself with a stock engine will not provide any significant change in HP. In fact it has been proven time after time using to high a octain can actualy rob HP on a stock engine Cheers BillyT

Hi GII, Guys I copied this article over from the General forum. It may help shed some light on what the inlet tract or reed spacer is generaly used for. Not saying this is the case with your bike, just a FYI Cheers BillyT "Here

Indoor trials = Lots of grip. Indoor trials = Angles + obstacles + Drops = balls to the wall riding style. Controlled enviornment. Natural trials = little or no grip Natural trials = slippery banks, hill climbs, slick rocks, slippy logs. running water = technique, reading a section, letting someone else go first to knock the snot of the rock, clutch control etc. Rain, snow, sand, mud, water, wood. No real venue contest yet 2 Vs 4 stroke. Lets get them out in the real world before we judge. Stadiums trials is not the venue to judge a 4 stroke debut. Let the outdoor games begin BillyT

Actualy there is/was a left handed throttle availble. I demoed a bike many years ago that had a left hand throttle tube that acted just like the right handed one. The clutch can be easliy reversed along with front brake to accomidiate a real left handed throttle. The guy had a handicap and had his bike heavly modified. The bike was a Fantic 305 I beleive. He even had the rear brake pedal moved to the other side to accomidiate his handicap. I think it is a good poll. BillyT

Hi Tell me the jets you have in the carb and I can help you. BillyT

G4321...As promised a while back, I have dug up the article I wrote back in 1996 on suspension & it's set up I know it is long, but it is very informative. Setting up the suspension is very important. In order to get the most out of your bike, you must set the suspension according to your weight, NOT your riding skill. In my opinion, there should be NO difference in the BASIC suspension settings, whether you are a beginner or an expert. I believe that the average weight that the factories use when they set up the suspension is 160 pounds, as they cannot possibly set the suspension up for everyone who purchases their bikes. The basic settings are as follows: First, the rear sag should be set in the following manner - lift the bike and place it on a box (be sure the rear wheel is off the ground). Next, measure from two points (I usually use the rear axle and the fender bolt.). You should get a measurement of approximately 28 to 30 inches (The actual measurement is not important, but remember what it is). Now, take the bike off the box and place the end of the handlebar against a wall (for your balance) and then stand on the bike. The rear of the bike will now sag under your weight. Ask a friend to now measure from the same two points, with you still on the bike. There should be approx. 2 inches of sag. If not, look at the bottom of the shock and there should be spring preload adjuster (two big flat nuts). One of these is a locking nut. After loosening the locking nut, adjust the other accordingly (towards the spring for less sag and away for more). After making this adjustment, you now have to check the static sag with you OFF the bike. With no weight on the back of the bike, you should be able to lift up the rear sub frame (fender) approx. 1/2 inch. If there is more than 1/2, let's say 1 inch, then the rear spring is too heavy (stiff) for your weight. If on the other hand, the back of the bike is fully topped out (no sag), then the spring is too light for your weight. EXPLANATION: If you are a very light person, you probably had to back the spring tension off a lot in order to achieve the 2 inches. Now that you are off the bike, the spring does not have enough tension to lift up the back end to approx. 1/2 inch. On the other hand, if you are heavy, and you set the 2 inches of sag, you more than likely, had to adjust the spring tension up high in order to achieve this setting. When you get off the bike, the rear spring is under a lot of tension and pushes the rear end up with little or no static sag. After setting the rear suspension, we can turn our efforts to the front suspension. On modern trials bikes, one fork is used to control the compression and the other fork is used to control the rebound. On the compression side, the object is to allow the fork to go through a complete stroke without bottoming out. This is accomplished by using the correct amount of oil AND viscosity. First, you must determine the correct amount of oil (check your owner's manual or with your local dealer). If you have too much oil in the fork, it will hydraulic lock (oil does not compress), and you will prematurely bottom out, robbing yourself of suspension. The speed at which the suspension moves down at, is controlled by the strength of the spring and the viscosity of the oil. A lighter oil means a faster downward movement. If you have the correct amount of oil and think that you are bottoming out the suspension (with NO hydraulic lock), then you may be using too light of an oil. The fork that controls the rebound is controlled very much in the same manner and the right amount of oil and the correct viscosity is very important. The desired action of the rebound fork is of a fast controlled rebound with no pogo stick (bouncing) effect at the end of the return stroke. This is controlled by choosing an oil that is of a low enough viscosity, to allow a quick rebound. Remember, too much oil in this fork will also cause a hydraulic lock. There is generally an adjustment on the top of each fork leg - one for compression/sag and the other for rebound. When choosing the correct oil for your application (In my personal bike - 96 BETA TECHNO, I use two and half weight viscosity in the rebound fork and five weight in the compression fork. I weigh approx. 140 pounds). I would suggest setting the rebound adjuster in the middle of its range before testing for the correct viscosity of oil, and similarly, if you have a compression adjuster on top of the fork. The reasoning behind this is, after you have done all of your testing and have set the suspension the way you like it, the weather could change or you may ride at a different altitude, which will have a slight effect on the viscosity of the oil or the mechanical action of the forks. If you have the adjustments in the middle, then you can reset them slightly without changing oils. There may an adjustment on the top of the compression fork for the sag, as does my '96 BETA TECHNO. This allows you to set the amount of sag on the front end. This sag should be set with two things in mind. One is that when you ride, and you have removed all of the sag from the front end, you will feel every bump and you will find it hard to steer and keep the front wheel pointed in the direction you have chosen, as it will be reacting to every little thing. On the other hand, if you have a lot of sag, you will lose some of the travel and the front end will not react quickly. After all of these settings have been accomplished, we now have the last and probably the most important test. The bike must act as if it were one unit from front to back. In other words, when you push down on the middle of the bike (approx.), the front and back should go up and down at the same time. If you can achieve this after doing all of the above settings, your bike should now be balanced and should not try to rock or bounce from front to back. I previously stated that "the bike should be set up for your weight and NOT your skill level", although some advanced riders may set their bikes up slightly different than what I have recommended. They all start from these basic settings and then personalize their suspensions. My suggestions are based on Physics and basic laws of gravity, which apply, whether you are Jordi or just a beginning rider. Type of supsension system........ We will discuss the "reservoir" oil / air separated type of shock exclusively since this type of shock is the easiest to explain. In most cases this type of shock is compressed when the suspension is compressed. It is returned to its full extension when all weight is taken off the machine. Normal construction for the oil/air separated shock features a mounting eye (or clevis) shaft, sealing housing and bushing, damping pistol, oil filled cylinder with mounting eye at base, plus a remote reservoir that houses a piston (or bladder) to separate the air and the oil. And a spring is fitted that is compressed as the shock compresses. The cylinder of the shock is completely oil filled with a separate oil/air reservoir. As the shock compresses, oil is displaced by the shock shaft moving from its exterior location internally into the shock. Since the cylinder is completely oil filled something has to give as the shock compresses. What moves is the reservoir separator pistol (or bladder) that is sealed against the oil by a nitrogen charge (normally 125 to 280 psi). This pressure creates some resistance to compression and when the load is taken off the shock the nitrogen pressure against the separator piston (or bladder) will force the shaft back out to its fully extended position. Added compression resistance is achieved by using flex washers on the compression side of the damping piston. The shaft with damping piston attached moves thru the oil as the shock is compressed. A stack of flex washers (also called shims) creates resistance to the oil that flows thru the damping pistons flow holes. The faster the shock is compressed, the more the flex washers get flexed by the oil trying to be forced thru the flow holes. Compression damping can be increased or decreased by adding, subtracting, or varying the number, size and thickness of the flex washers. A similar set of flex washers are used on the rebound side of the damping piston and control oil flow when the damping piston changes direction in the cylinder and returns to it

Folks Just caught on to something. Martin Belair knew what a Teuchter was, so that shows he has an in depth knowledge of things Scottish as does M4RT. He has been around the Canadian & US trials scene for some time. Could quite easly pass on this board for a Scottish/Canadian/USA AKA. Martin speaks Spanish, M4RT posted something in Spanish. Another thing is that M4RT is very similiar to Martin. So come clean Martin

Guys The carb adjustments and the hose attachment are all part of the same solutions that I had presented on this dribbiling problem several years ago. Both are really required to eliminate the dribbiling. Clark helped document this process very well and for that I am gratefull. BillyT

He backed off when I challenged him to a online techy duel BillyT

Everyone Look at the posting times they are smack on top of each other or very close. Ishy what are you doing to me BillyT

Andy Are you going to take that abuse from M4RT Andy the posts are to close together in time for one to log out and back in again. BillyT

At last some believers that I am not the idiot M4RT how are you with techy stuff? Can I challenge you to a duel? BillyT

bikespace How can I be logged in as both people at the same time? The system will not allow it BillyT

Quick I am online (BillyT) and so is M4RT look at the bottom of the page. Can someone witness this and post that you witnessed us both been online at the same time. Good proof that I am not M4RT. Thanks

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