billyt

Mad max I agree 100% All of the other Montesa's came with the restrictors into North America and I can not see these bike being different. BillyT

JTT Think engine mapping, software, changes thru taking out restrictors. Ahead of the game. Tuning, different people, aftermarket Cheers BillyT

Mr HondaRS Trials suspension in not set up like any other form of motorcycle sport It is imperative that the front and rear suspension be set up to act as a single unit. The rider off bike unloaded sag is very important in determining the correct spring rate for one's weight. The rider should be able to push the bike in the centre (around the seat/pegs area) and the bike should move up and down as one unit. If the back goes down first or the front then the suspension is not correct. If Andy or Ian finds my old article it will go into great detail around this topic. Failing that I will try and re-write it ( about six pages long). Rons article is also a good starting point. BillyT

G4321 If Andy or Ian could repost my technical article I wrote many years ago on suspension, it was wrote around the time when Ian first started Trials Action. You may find it very interesting as it goes into trials suspensions in quite some detail? I breaks down Sag, rebound, pre-load, dampening, spring rates, oil viscocities, etc I have no idea were my old technical articles went after Andy took over? Andy, Ian any idea where they went? BillyT

Can one of the lucky few who have a M4RT describe what changes you or your dealer have made to the bike with respect to the restrictors. I beleive there are three? Are all three being removed? Any pictures or diagrams would be appreciated. And may I wish all of you a great xmas and a happy nerday........ BillyT

stevel My comment on your topic was about your statement regarding the rpms. It was a question or query as to were you got this idle number from. At no point did I knock or belitle you. You are the one taking it all out of context! I quote: "To stevel A trials bike idles at around 300 rpm and up so were do you get 1500 RPM from?" That is a question pure and simple, and not a statement.......... Nowhere in my post did I say you where talking a lot of tosh as was said to us when were discussing the 4t traction. I am still confused regarding the 1800 rpm at idle. When one says "it ticks over at 1800 RPM" that refers to its idle speed. I think or I hope semantics is at play here? I am waiting on my 4RT coming and when it does I will tach the rpms at idle and post accordingly. Idling at 1800rpm seems very high, but untill I get my bike I can not say for sure. I can how ever say that my Beta and Scorp's idled anywhere from 300 > 500 rpm. Hell even a car idles at around 900>1100 rpm. BillyT

'and clean them in a solvent like petrol, allow to dry then reassemble." MarkG You could be correct and I hope you are, but with a statement like the above using words like clean "them IN and let dry" lead me to beleive that they were going to be submerged in a lquid and the taken out and let air dry. Maybe it was being to overley concerned but I have heard of people soaking their clutch packs in cleaning solvents only to find out that they have swollen beyond recognition as the cork like material soaks up the liquid. The same goes for anyone pulling in the clutch lever and using a rubber band to hold it in overnight. This was done by a rider who thought he could solve the problem of cold dragging clutch in the morning by holding in the clutch all night. What he did was allow the clutch pack to soak up the clutch fluid and the plates swelled. His clutch pack had to be replaced shortly after. Better safe than sorry. BillyT

WOW Hold on here....... Never let your clutch plates soak in any liquid outside the clutch basket. The clutch plates will expand and swell like crazy and they will never work correctly again. They will basically swell and become thicker, when you pull in the clutch the plates will be thicker and not let the space develop to afford clutch release. BillyT

bigwig...............and you are ?????????????? And when did you become so knowledegble and why have we not benifited from your wisdom and advice before now? Please enligthen us more? We write to help each other and do not jump down each others throats or belitle them by saying like "what a load of tosh you have written" Please explain overlap of stroke to us trials neophytes here (that means begineers). It is any open forum and we write what we want free off riducle. Are you sure your name is not CHris by any chance BillyT

Neonsurge you stated "more torque at lower rpms means that it's theoretically less likely to break traction." This statement has me confused More torque at lower RPM will have enough power to break the wheel loose very easly. Proof in the pudding is that a little 125cc will give great traction due to the lack of torque. Here in Canada during the winter (ice & snow) any owner of a muscle type car with a manual transmission will take off in the highest gear possible to avoid wheel slip and get greater traction (less torque in higher gears at lower RPMs). Any good rider will take off using a higher gear in mud, again to avoid torque breaking the wheel loose. Maybe I am not understanding what you are saying BillyT

To stevel A trials bike idles at around 300 rpm and up so were do you get 1500 RPM from? BillyT

Copemechanic I think you should re read clark spost. He was refering to Scorpamans comments not mine.

Two stroke Vs Four stroke traction theory. This is an open letter placing down my curiosity as to the realty of my thoughts of two vs four stroke traction. It is looking at the theory vs reality. Given that a two stroke crank rotates (under power) with every pulse of the spark plug means that every rotation of the crank is under power and therefore no free wheeling in affect. The pulses are somewhat smooth as there is no coasting just continuous power being sent to the back wheel as long as you have the clutch out and the gas on. A four stroke on the other hand has the crank make one revolution without a power pulse and one with. Basically the crank is coasting with no power pulse for one revolution and one with. This mean that when you have the gas on and clutch out on a four stroke it theoretically pulses and coast as the crank turns. This in theory should give less traction and/or smoothness as one has lost a smooth constant grip with the ground not thru the coasting but when the power comes back on and tries to turn the back wheel. It is more of a on off affect to power in the world of trials and smooth constant traction. The two stroke is always trying to power or pulse the wheel as the crank is constantly under power. I wonder how all of this relates in reality to traction as the theory says it has less traction due to its pulsing. I welcome any input to this thought as all indications are that the bike gets great traction Maybe I have answered my own question as the on and off again is the secret to why it gives more traction. Two stoke= One bit of gas equals one power crank turn pulse. Four stroke = A bit of gas gives one power crank turn and one coast crank turn. Hmmmm........... BillyT

Leaving the spigots bare defets the purpose of what the T connected tubes peform . As Clark says it leaves them exposed to the elements etc. The only spigot to leave with no tube on it is the real overflow tube which is at the very bottom of the carb. This is due to trying to eliminate the capillary action of a tube. As for the length of the open tube at the T connection. Taking a tube down to the the swing arm would be pointless as no real gas should come out of the open tube as it there to primarly let air in and not gas out Keep in mind that the spigots (left & right) are in reality atmospheric equilisers ports, no real gas should come out of them ( unless your float level adjustment are out per my prior instructions) The point of my T connection is that if gas is coming out of one EQ spigot it will have a hard time flowing uphill and if it does it should flow back down the other tube and back into the gas bowl or in extreme cases out of the other open tube. If the gas only goes up the tube a little bit there is still air pushing down the other tube (thru the open T connection) affording equlization in the float bowl. The other affect of my T connection method is that any excess gas that comes out of the EQ tubes due to hard landing or serious incline can and will flow up the EQ tube/s and then back down again supplying a quicker refill rate to the gas bowl (ie main jet). It is important to place the open part of the T facing upwards as one wants the gas to flow back down into the carb and also lay at it lowest level if it does come up the tubes and then run over to the other side and back down into the bowl and not out the open part of the T connection. It could run out of the open part of the T connection if it is laying down. This way the chances of gas coming up and totally blocking the air flow is minimized. Meaning if one took a cross section of the T tubes as gas was coming up and down it should only consume a small cross section still letting air flow. This is due to the excess gas not being a constant flow but rather a burst if you will of gas due to the floats not being able to handle what is happening. The floats should kick in shutting the gas off. The gas in the tube should as it climbs up and goes around the radius flatten (with the float shut off kicked in) out not totally blocking the cross section of the tube. In a perfect world one could have gas and air in the tube at the same time. Kind of like a subway car in the tunnel sharing the same space, subway car and air. The bottom line with my T connection trick is that any gas level not contained by the float in extreme situations is contained in one or both tubes and air should still be able to flow into the EQ tubes whilst doing so. I am going back in to my cave BillyT

ClarkP Well said Scorpaman How about I list all of the changes to the Carb on the Scorpa that I had to do when I owned it? I owned a 03 & 04 Scorpa that I had to work on the carb to get it to run to my satisfaction. BillyT

You welcome BillyT

!00% Pilot jet to lean & possible to much idle air adjustment. When you ride for a while and the shut the bike down the heat at the cylinder etc rises very quickly as there is no moving air to keep it cool. The cylinder temp always climb once you turn off the bike Once you go to start it again the bike could be very warm and making the mixture go very lean. Just like the problems old turbo cars used to have. In the older turbos you could not just turn off the engine as the heat would rise and eventauly fry the turbo bearings. In some of the older turbos when you shut off the ignition switch the fan keeped running untill the bearings had cooled down. The evidence here is that you have to use the choke to get the bike started. When you use the choke you are giving it more gas. Also try some of DFWilson suggestions, but my numerious expierences with this same problem of starting a very warm bike always ends up that the jetting is way to lean. BillyT

Craig Some question about your bike. What oil gas ratio do you run? Are you using the bowl extender? What is the jetting in your bike? What were the symptoms when you say sluggish? What was the weather characteristics? What kind of Beta? Have you changed the timing spec? Was the bike sluggish before you made the mods & did it clear up after you made some other mod? BillyT Stealth Is Best

Craig My honest opinion on the protrusion from the float bowl! Spend your money on a new rear tire or something. Some history: Float bowl modifications have been around for years on carb

Clark The VERY original looping that I peformed was with a small "T" . Both ends of the hoses went into a "T" over the carb. The actual outlet was the third part of the "T" that had a small hose attached to it and then vented down ways to prevent water and dirt etc from getting into the carb. The picture you show make me very concernd that water or crap can and will get in to the carb tubes through the cut you made in the tube.. Go to Home Depot or somewhere and find some very small plumbing fixtures that afford a "T" like connection from the two hoses and then turn the third hose down and away from outside crap. This way no water can get in and the dirt is kept out. The joining of the tubes must be in the above the carb method with the thrid tube going down. Cut the thrid tube at a very steep angle to increase its surface area. This will alleviate mud collecting on its surface and blocking the tube opening and also it will break any shiponing affect. Back to being stealth BillyT

Note to all: You can, quite successfully connect the two hose without cutting them with one VERY IMPORTANT POINT. If you choose to connect the tubes ..then.. The connected tubes must go over the top of the carb and not down below it as many have done and created anomolies in running and starting. . Putting them below the carb creates a potential to trap gas and thus preventing atmospheric equilization. Some thing like a "P" trap on a toilet bowl.. BillyT

DMX84 E-mail me @ williamtraynor@hotmail.com and we will get you fixed up. BillyT

"2-stroke R&D recently particuarly in the area of fuel injection so once the dust settles we might see a 2-stroke renaissance." Mmmm.............Fuel Injection = Mikuni= Lots of MI5 Cloak and Dacker ????? BillyT.......................................

Try a rocket run. Wait untill it is dark. A scout heads out in to the woods, hills , rocks etc and takes an object like a bright red flag. When the scout gets to his destination he lets off a flare every ten minutes or so signalling his position. The group of riders head out at the first flair (all wearing approved head lights on their helmets (like campers wear). The first person to retreave the flag and bring it back to camp is the victor. Beleive me this can be very intesting (and dangerous) all riders must have the trials marshall approve their camper lights attached to their helmets. In the past some did not make it back to the camp for hours and search parties had to go in after them only to find them with the lights crapped out and them sitting there waiting on rescue slugging back cans of bud. You do not have to be the clubs best trlals rider to succeed at this but rather one who rides carefully and can keep a sense of direction in the woods in the dark. Speed here does not really play as a large factor, one can put their feet down as many times as they wish (who the hell is going to see it in the dark anyway) this is a blast to try Steve. BillyT

Charlie I agree, let the postings flow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But I am keeping out of it! Oil Ratio Mix opinons is like ass#$ls we all have. Hell here is my thoughts anyway. Get a hold of a little black plastic film canister that 35mm film comes in. Fill it with oil and pour two of them in to one gallon (US) = 64:1 That makes it easy, you never have to figure it out, you do not need a ratio right, they are free to be had by just going to any film developing place and asked them for some. You can thow them away when they get dirty. Each container hold approx 1 ounce of oil. It works out to 64:1 Perfect no oily black smoke no carb problems, no pinging, bike runs great. Okay every body's elses turn. BillyT