charlie prescott

Hi Guy's I feel the same as you ,It would have been nice with todays technology to have at least the first day leaders published. Perhaps next year we could attache a radio link to say OTF or Big John for updates, thats if they get a ride. Regards Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Yes I think Big "J" is right. The "F" engine was 1965-66 and the "G" from 66-7 this is the engine with the oil fed from the end of the crank. The "B" signifies it was one of the engines built for the British army,there were others that had different letters IE "D" for Danish army. The G"B" engine also has wide ratio gears so should make it fine for trials without modification. You can also fit a Victor ally barrel if shortened slightly. Hope this helps. Regards Charlie. PS Good luck to all you boys (and Girls) in the two Scottish trials. and to first timer OTF.

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Hi, Guy's Hi Dave, The C15T that we have, has had both fork tubes cut off at the casting, moved out what looks like about half an inch both sides and then bronze welded back on to what looks like machined blocks that have been brazed on to the casting first. A lot of work? I spent hours converting the Triumph cub swinging arm for the Scott Ellis replica bike that I am building. When I could just have used the welded framed swinging arm as on Pat Slinn's bike. but Scott used a Cub arm so I was told, so it had to be that. I will try and work out how to fit one of the later arms to a older frame when I am in the workshop today and get a few dimentions. and will post later. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's. Hi Dave, I still think the origanal frames had the same arms,perhaps the frame was modified to take a swinging arm from the later frames I.E. the C15T from 1965, or the same as fitted to the GB army bikes. It could be done? in fact I am contemplating useing one of these for my next project OIF Triumph Tiger Cub. You would need outriger plates and some spacers made to fit one to a old type frame. this arm is the same weight as an Ariel HT box section arm. so I am torn between the two which to use. See the problems when you start modifieing things. Rgard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's. Hi Dave. I think they are the same mate. Regards Charlie.

Hi Guy's. Hi Spoke. Try fitting some longer rear unit's , or even find two length's of steel about one inch longer than the unit's you have on at the moment. Drill some holes and fit these to the bike then try it down hill and see if it makes the steering more positive, it may help you to decide. I have heard of people runing the bike slowly into a wall to alter the geometry of the steering. And I am not joking but I should not try that. Hope this helps. Regards Charlie.

Hi' Guy's. Hi Dave, Sorry mate the second reading in lb's is right got that one from the kitchen scales, after thinking that the bathroom set was not to true.No wonder my weight as been up and down don't know if I should ride the 250 or 350 but it's looking more like the 500 to take my present weight. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Dave. Just weighed one on the bathroom skales for you, comes out at about 2 Kilograms (5lbs 10 ozs) with one of my stainless brake arms fitted. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Dave, If the frame is standard C15 use new ball bearings it is not worth the hasell trying to fit tapered rollers as I could not find any that were the right diameter without machining the steering head, (My opinion though). good luck anyway. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Vinnie, Is the front wheel spindle as long as the spacer tube that it sit's in, if not it is one from a road bike. The TR Cub's have a longer spindle that reaches the end of the tubes,and should clamp up tight. I made some new spacer tubes out of stainless that were just a fraction bigger in there diameter, and with a two hacksaw blade cut along the tubes length clamp up realy well. Hope this helps. Regard's Charlie.

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Hi Guy's. Thank's Pitley, for the Tel number, is there any more photos of John Draper at the Scottish that I don't know about? would still like to find Bob Light's e-mail address if anyone knows it. Regard's Charlie.

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Hi Guy's. Here Is RockShocks Phone Number (01543685430) Pete Eddy gave me this number at the Malvern Show. I would like to know how much a pair for a Bsa B40 about 14 inches long would cost. I think they are a work of art compared to some. Hope this helps. Regards Charlie. PS. And they are British.

Hi Guy's Hi Michael, Thanks for that ,that shows a much better light on the project. Just a note on the alloy barrel. Patt Slinn who worked in the BSA comp shop at the time,told me that most of the works riders bikes had alloy barrels fitted. They were imported from the USA along with a batch of alloy clutches. The barrels were used, but had to be painted black, so that they looked like the cast iron ones fitted to the customer bikes. The clutches were less usefull as they were made of to soft a grade of alloy and when tested by Pat wore out in one days use on a prototype army bike, so were left on a shelf untill the factory closed. So the nearest I can find is the one from a B25 which is fitted with a spacer under the barrel to make up the length of a standard C15 cast one. hope this is of intrest. Regards Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi "Tricky Mick". No fear of doing that mate, I have machined the spigot and crank case mouth so that it is a nice fit , and we have the Ex Brian Hyatt C15t that has had the fins rounded by grinding, and you know how nice them thin little four inch cutting blades are now a days, hope you did not throw the barrel away, as i think there is some good old stock liners about that I have seen somwhere. Cheers for the warning though. Regards Charlie.

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http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj170/l...tt/IMG_0036.jpg Hi Guys. Thought I would try and post a Picture of the "Scott Ellis" replica frame before it goes off to the powder coaters. I now have most of the bits to assemble the bike after a year trawling through e-Bay to get all the parts that were needed to build the bike. If you can open the link you will see that the photo is not that brilliant , but it was taken with the eldest's new camara that cost over a grand, so you can't expect a lot can you. Will update you with progress of the build as it happens. Regards.Charlie.

Hi Guy's, Woody's said it all realy, and take no notice of people that say you have to have a botomless pocket to build a pre 65 bike,you don't. You can have a plesant time finding the bits you need to convert the bike.I would start with a Otter type frame as it is exeptable in most clubs, and you will find that then most of the other parts are like compleating a jigsaw. And dont forget you can have just as much fun building the bike in the shed, as you can eventualy riding the bike. And you built it. Hope this helps with your disigion what to do. Regards Charlie.

Hi Guy's Yes it is the 12 tooth that is the problem. I should have thought about this before posting. With this Talon sprocket the chain sits right down along side the oil seal, another cure I have thought about is to use a totaly sealed gearbox bearing and machine of the face of the oilseal holder. May try this on the next engine. Regards Charlie.