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The needle that is in the center of the throttle slide, its held down by a big spring and a flat clip, remove these and the needle will come out, check that the clip on the needle is on the 4th position down from the top, this is a standard setting. the pipes are vents and over flows. If you still have problems check the two very small holes in the bore of the carb as they sometimes get blocked, stick some carb cleaner through them and make sure they are clear.
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Try the mixture 1 1/2 turns out for a start, its worth checking the float bowl height it should be about 21mm from where the gasket sits to the top of the bowl, this is measured with the carb inverted and the float tang just rests on the float needle. Check the floats not letting in fuel as this will weigh it down and give a false level, just remove the bowl and give it a shake to see if theres anything inside. Check the clip position on the slide needle, it should be ok on the 4 th one down from the top.
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Sounds like its fuel starvation, best bet would be to remove the carb, remove the float bowl remove the pilot jet and check its clear, check float bowl level and the action of the float needle. Get a can of carb cleaner and make sure all the air/fuel passage ways are clear, if you can blow through with compressed air this will help also.
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Just a thought, I had a similar fault, I thought it was the plug but in the amount of time it took to push the bike back to my car and change the plug the engine had cooled enough for it to start, nothing to do with the plug it would of started even if I didn't change it. It was a fault on the source coil, fitted electronic ignition as mentioned by majesty.
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Just to be different I will say a torque wrench is not essential for tightening up your nuts/bolts, its good to have one, but its sometimes better to just nip them up by feel, if you know what your doing. I have in the past stripped a thread using a torque wrench that was set to the correct pressure.
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You know you can use a small adjustable spanner to tighten the nipples or even a small pair of mole grips if they are very tight.The spoke spanners are fine to use but you dont have to. Yes I'm out to play this sunday, expecting a lot of mud. Good luck with the wheel anyway.
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If you want to make a cheap bike stand get hold of an old office swivel chair, ones with the hydraulic ram are OK, or just the standard one, unbolt the seat and chop off the back rest, stick a bit of wood on top. Some do require a little messing about with but hey its free.
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Kinky wheels..what ever turns you on...the biggest problem with trying to straighten them out is rusted up nipples, I had this problem with mine before I re-laced them, you can get them to free up by removing the tyre and then soaking the wheel a bit at a time in a tray of penetrating fluid..if you have that problem...good luck
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Spokes loose...you should be able to play...wheels keep on turning..if not then they are out of tune and will require attention.
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Would anyone know of another suitable kick start that would fit on a Stormer/Starmaker, the shaft is splined and looks to be 3/4" diameter.
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Brown muck should be fine, I would give it another oil change fairly soon as whats in there now will probably get dirty quickly.
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If its one of the nuts on the front near the exhaust, its possible to get something down there to lock the nut, if its one near the back of the engine then they dont look so easy. I would hold the head of the bolt and drill out the head, then you could either get the nut bit re welded or get some captive type nuts.
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If you take the sump guard off then you wont have to get into the diddy hole, then perhaps you can grip it with some mole grips.
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As far as I know one of the older type GASGAS kick starts will fit and they do look nice, also one of the RD350 ( I think) will fit but they are a bit on the long side. The other problem is that the GASGAS ones do fetch good money, you can get a RD one easy enough off Ebay.
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Yes, just do the bolts up so the bottom of the clamp touches the face of the barrel. You should have a couple of spring washers on the studs but I normally use a couple of 6mm Nyloc nuts and they don't normally melt ( the nylon bits inside).
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The two studs should be in the head then just pop the nuts on when its in place,they do take a bit of jiggling to get in place . If the gasket does not stay in place then a little silicone sealant will stick it in and will give a good seal even on an old gasket.
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Yes that's what a broken ring would do. If the bike runs ok with that head then just ignore it, pick one up cheap off ebay when you can if it bothers you.
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Hi, it sounds like the remains of a broken piston ring at some point in the past has been bouncing around the head ?
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Theres a Ty175 for sale on Ebay and the guy reckons its a Majesty. I cant remember myself but I thought there was only two.. the mini Majesty with the straight down tubes and then the one with the bent down tubes which I thought was the original Majesty, anyway the guy selling this one thinks its an original...anyone know any better..have a look... HERE
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Just to add to the checks with regards the too much air, where the oil lube system connects to the carb, if this has been removed I have known the pipe not to be blocked off as it should be. This would cause the high revs.
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If you ain't seen this yet its well worth a look..HERE
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I saw this on EBAY and the owner is trying to find out some history on it, have anyone got any Ideas, look HERE
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Hi, will the mixture screw on it not give any adjustment ? not an expert on these carbs it was just a thought, perhaps even adjusting the float level could help, Ok now tell me to shut up as I dont know what I'm talking about.
Regards Andy.
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