andy.t

Was just wondering if any of you guys had ever thought about doing a bit of Motocross. I joined a PRE65 MOTOCROSS CLUB CLICK HERE. I joined the club a couple of years back and I'm now doing my second season, its fantastic fun. If you have nothing better to do you could even watch me with my helmet cam on CLICK HERE.It's not that expensive to do and the club allows up to pre74 bikes to ride in certain classes. I just ride the Clubman class on a 250cc AJS Stormer.Obviously my club is in the UK and most of the events are held in Essex at Marks Tey,if your local and want to watch to get a taste of it then look at the PRE65 website and there's a events list, its normally free to go and watch. Just a thought for anyone considering doing it.

Your right it does not make any sense, something else I couldn't understand was my bike with the SM tank on doesn't look too bad on the outside with regards to the ethanol eating into it, but have had loads of problems with the contents blocking the carb, my mates SM tank looks really bad with loads of blisters and soft spots, yet he has had no problems with the carb and the bike always runs a treat....bizarre...?

I wouldn't trust any sealer. I know several guys that have tried various brands and they all result in the same mess. I would just do what I have been doing it only takes 5mins but does save a load of hassle in the long run.

I have a sammy miller tank and seat unit like yours only mine is a fair bit older, never had any problems with it up until they started to add ethanol,then all of the problems you mentioned started. The solution is to drain the tank and leave the cap off to let the tank breath, remove the main jet from the carb and dump the fuel after riding.This is what I have been doing for about the last year and don't get any more problems.Im now running with a bigger pilot jet and a grade cooler plug because the motor was also running hotter than it use to, which I think is down to the petrol yet again.

Not sure if you are having the same problem that I had on my Ty175, the threads were probably damaged by somebody trying to use a socket on the nut that was a bit too big and fouled the threads, I removed mine with a 3 leg puller in the end and got the threads cleaned up with a thread chaser.

I think you will find its for pushing the crank out, if you want to make one just measure the two cast in holes that the two screws fit into and put a hole in the middle and tap it for a bolt. put the crank in the freezer and heat the casing and bearing as mentioned and the crank should fall back in...well it did on mine.

When you refit the crank in the left hand side of the cases as you know a shim is placed on and then the crank shaft is knocked or pressed in, it should be a tight fit so from that point it should not float. I think the other shim on the other end should be of a size so that when the other half of the case is fitted there should be minimal gap should float occur, personally I would be looking for about a 3 or 4 thou potential gap if possible, but how you would be able to measure any float with one end fixed it would not be possible unless the crank moves which it should not. I do know that sometimes you have to give the drive end a sharp blow with a mallet to push the crank across to clear the flywheel from the back plate when fitting electronic ignition, so its a known thing that it should be static under normal conditions.

Not sure of the best one to use but mine was fitted with a LONG(trade name) connecting rod kit made in JAPAN..stock no CK4152...YAMAHA DT175E/F/G...(2N4-11651-00) , My local Yamaha dealer got it in for me and then had a company press it for me. I did have to get them to re press it as it was too tight when they gave it back to me. Good luck

not sure if this info is what you want but when the crank is pressed the measurement shown as D in the book should be 55.90 to 55.96 mm which should give you the correct float and the correct gap on the con rod, if its pressed too tight or too loose then that's where you end up getting problems. I am still amazed that's the problem as my old crank and con rod and little ends were well worn and had a worn piston with a broken ring and the engine really didn't sound bad at all.

Yes this was a real knock on my bike and it was running very hot, was not the usual pinking noise, you will probably want to give the carb a real good clean theres a few air passage ways that connect with the pilot mixture.check the float bowl level and be sure the bowl is filling up to the correct level. just a thought when the bike is knocking try and give it some choke and see if it improves the noise, if it does then its running weak for whatever reason.

If the engine is running weak on low revs then it will knock like mad. You could try and check the pilot jet to see if its clear,could even need a bigger pilot jet.A leaking exhaust around the joint from the barrel doesn't help either. I had problems a little while back and fitted a 30 pilot jet, put a cooler plug in and problem solved.

Never tried it to see what would happen but the lighting coil output would be completely wrong for use on the primary HT coil. Give it a go..probably will burn something else out though. Go electronic its well worth the

Are these the kind you want. They do blanks or some with holes drilled. CLICK HERE

Hey Eddie if your reading this I had the greatest admiration for you when I was a kid and I still do.

Nope nothing at all..we just sit here and breath...most of the time just waiting for the world to end...We would go to Miton Keynes but its even worse there.

Hi, thought it could be a bit of fun to try and predict what perhaps the Mayans thought could happen in 2012. if you put your thoughts down now we be able to see who gets the closest. No prizes unless somebody would like to donate one. Well here is my thoughts. The economy will collapse mainly due to the idiots that are running things.All computers will go tits up. The climate will change to unheard of levels in various country's. Aliens from another planet will being making them selfs known to us. OK its just a bit of fun don't send the men around with a straight jacket.

I would say it depends on how much power you think you have now, probably an engine rebuild for a start would improve it, all the other bits you could do to it will improve it but getting the basics correct from the start is essential.Once the engine is spot on you could then fit Boyesen reed valves, play around with the pilot jets, fit the electronic ignition and so on,but I would say a perfect standard engine and carb from the start is the best bet before adding the extras.

Pat, the TY175 exhaust pipe on the TY175 frame is a very exact fit and sometimes it can be a bit of a struggle to get it on, I would be amazed if you could get it to fit another frame without any mods.You could stand a better chance with the chrome front pipe and the mid section, but as you probably know the original is a one piece(front pipe and mid section).I think it would be very hard to give any measurements that would be worthwhile. Sorry if this is not of any use to you.

I have the sammy miller ones fitted and a mate has the TY trials ones fitted, I would say they are the same but if there is a difference its not much. Well worth fitting them, the only problem is sometimes the swing arm bolt gets seized up and you have to cut through it before you can fit the kit...like it did on my bike. They are at most about 1" lower and a tiny bit further back from the original, and much more comfortable to stand on.

There's no reason why you can't just file out the notches. I have done it a couple of times on bikes and had no adverse problems.

Apparently the play between the two components is due to the fact that there should be some rubber cushions between the two parts and the slack is a result of them being worn, I think you will find its the same on most old Ty'S, don't worry about it. (got that info off Feetupfun ages ago)

If you fit Boyesen reed valves they don't need the original reed stops just a couple of flat bars that replace them, you will probably have to go up two sizes on the pilot jet to a 30. Lot easier then mucking about with a different reed block and it does improve the power.

Most of the public pumps( if not all) now contain ethanol and is going to get worse as they increase the percentage, one of the biggest problems is if you have a fiberglass tank as it eats into it, have a look at some of the problems these guys are having CLICK HERE

I think we all assumed you had removed the clutch arm to reveal the other end of the rod? remove lock nut on end of clutch adjuster(fly wheel cover off), unscrew adjuster,the clutch arm will rise and fall with a pin that locates in a grove which is normal, when removed the clutch arm will pull out of casing to reveal the other end of rod.

The old type push rod was a one piece item, they were replaced as an upgrade a two part separated by a ball bearing,it sounds like you have a broken one fitted,to remove the clutch end part of the rod you will have to remove the clutch springs and pressure plate as the rod that's in there has a flat washer shape end to it, so it will only come out this way.