andy.t

Depending on how deep the scratches are you can start with some very fine wet and dry (wet), then try some fine paste chrome polish,finish off with some normal car polish. Well that method always work for me, dont blame me if it goes wrong.

Looking at the listing i think the bikes being sold by a female, perhaps she likes a nice long fork.

Is it one of the new stainless types you have? the old stle chrome ones fitted inside the the old exhaust after it had been cut, all be it not very well, and required a bit of hose to seal it. I think the new stainless was designed to fit into the WES mid section, I would try and make the original fit over the new front pipe rather than the other way round, the original mid section is very thin and would prbabaly crush if you tried to clamp the new one over it. Hope this makes sense, probably not knowing me

It could be the slow running mixture or the ignition timing

Hi, your bike looks nice, just done something similar to you with the top yolke clamps.I had to resort to hand saw and file. Not tried mine out yet in anger, but it does feel much better. Thought I would ask if the fibreglass tank has been treated against ethanol as it will start to dissolve and cause you problems if its not. Regards.

Sorry not the kind you were thinking of. I wanted to strip some paint off a gearbox cover and it looks like the old Nitromors containing dichloromethane has now been banned. I think its an EU thing, anyway I have tried some of the new type stuff and can confirm its crap. Do any of you still play around with your chemistry sets? could you point me in the right direction so I can make something like the old stuff. Cheers for any replies.

Thanks for the replies so far. Could anybody let me know what they think... when a bike has static ignition at what point would the optimum efficiency be for the fixed setting on the points be?.If for example on my bike at 2mm btdc, if the best power would be at 5000rpm then I'm kind of thinking that the electronic ignition would probably give benefits lower down the range. Just trying to figure out when the bike was designed what made them come up with the 2mm btdc as the best setting and if I fitted electronic at what point would that improve things. I know you can play around with the static settings pending on the state of tune of the engine but would like to go electronic unless there's no great advantage.cheers for any more advice

Just wanted a bit of advice on Electronic ignition. I'm thinking about fitting some Electrex World electronic ignition on my AJS Stormer and was looking for a bit of confirmation as to whether it would noticeably improve the engine pick up from low revs. The bike is fitted with points and set up 2mm btdc a the moment and does actually run a treat but I keep telling myself that static ignition like what I have can't be getting the most out of the engine. Any advice from any two stroke experts out there, I know some of you must have been motocross stars at some point. Cheers for any replies.

Could somebody please give me the info required for getting a bike road registered. If the bike has matching engine and frame numbers and every part of the bike is as it was made. No evidence of a reg number or old tax disc is available. (this would be a UK reg) cheers for any info.

I'm still having some problems with my Sammy Miller tank/seat unit dumping crud into the pilot jet and was thinking about giving it a coating of Caswell's GTS 1750 sealant. Anybody know where to get it in the UK? I know people have used it on fibreglass tanks in the past has anyone got any updates on how good it is in the long-term. Thanks for any reply's.

You sure he said he wanted to show his sheep

That's a great project, shame you haven't got more pictures

It's a Mandy Warthole picture called...I would rather poke me fingers in me eye,it's worth about 2 million pounds.

All adverts have subliminal messages,not sure what they are on these add's. I did have my own little fantasy. Happy Christmas to everyone, don't feel the same this year for some reason. Remember to make the most of this one as it could be the last, well that's if the Mayan calender is correct.

What Yamaha engine is it? If its a ty175 then its easy to just replace the shaft by removing the small cover.

Are you saying the yellow wire from the coil is broken off? if this is the case then you will need to take a close look at the windings to find the end where it broke off from, you should be able to pull a bit out and then remove the lacquer from the copper and then solder the wire back on. looking at the wiring diagram it looks like the horn shouldn't work either as this is fed by the same wire. hope this helps.

Could somebody confirm something for me please. A chap told me something about a Beamish 250cc barrel having a sleeve that could be pushed out to enable it to take a 325cc piston. The way I understood it was the sleeve came out and the bigger piston went in, not a re sleeve as in you need to take a smaller sleeve completely out and fit a larger one. Cheers for any replies.

When I made the air box it was done around a cardboard mould covered in duct tape. I then repeatedly placed on layers of fibre glass on the outside, the cardboard was pulled out and then just finished off the box where required. The box its self was not to bad to make the aluminium section to hold the filter was a bit of trial and error. I did think about knocking more out but didn't think for the time they take it would be worth it. Perhaps I should give it some more thought though if I thought there was a potential market.

if you check on the history there is some info on one that I made some years back and photos. It was made out of fibre glass and had a top filter like on the ty250 mono, and the carb to air box is straight in to aid flow. Still fitted and works well. Bit of a pain to make though.just found a link CLICK HERE

put the engine on a bit of carpet,sump to the ground, and a sharp tap on the end of the crank should get it started, no need to hold anything, just don't go mad.(100% SURE ALL THE BOLTS ARE OUT?)

I would try taping the cases with a soft mallet, could even try a little heat around the joint with a hot air gun, have the cases not parted at all?..is it completely stuck. I did make a tool for pushing them apart but the main reason they didn't want to split in my case was the screw behind the gear change mechanism which was covered in grease and didn't realize it was there, once this one was removed mine came apart.

I have the 12 and 51 set up,works for me. A mate did try the 11 front but the bike tended to rear up on occasions on steep hill climbs.

Have you checked the bolt that is above the selector drum on the outside of the casing, it holds a ball and spring that holds the drum in neutral. if its faulty then it wont help with selecting neutral. just a thought.

CLICK HERE Pre65 Race Calender

That looks fun - i'd love to have a go at that, but i think my wife operates a one in, one out policy with bikes I see its AMCA - i guess the next one would be on their website? I'm just up the road and wouldnt mind coming to watch one day. Nice vid too - love the guy taking a "comfort break" before the start! Nice Ajay too. Cheers Caddabs Caddabs, yes my wife would probably be the same with the one in one out theory...but I just dont listen. How does that work with her handbags and shoes anyway. Please do come and watch, its a day out, theres toilets to use and a burger van and if your real keen you could marshall for the day and get paid