andy.t

Hi, Google this part number and you will find plenty of places selling them, looks like they are mainly in the states. 315-23156-50-00 CLIP. Just find a company that does cheap postal rates.

TYjay, the RD350 inlet rubber is all that you change, the reed cage will not fit. The advantage as mentioned is that it centralisers the inlet hole to the hole in the reed cage. It also then has a connection point to connect a boost bottle ( dont go there yet ) You will have to shave off a couple of bits of rubber to make it sit flat. If you can get hold of a new reed cage then that would be a bonus, they do come up on ebay from time to time and more so in the states. There are a few guys that sell new replica RD rubbers on ebay but they are sold in pairs for about £30, just get a mate to but one and share the cost

Tyjay, just had another thought from what you last said. Have you got the correct sprocket set up ? if its still got road gearing on it (mine did have) then that could be your problem. Most people around my neck of the woods use a 12 front(11 works but bike does rear up a bit) and a 51 rear sprocket (428 chain).

Tyjay, try and get the stock engine running before adding any performance parts. The points according to Haynes should be .35mm or 0.014 if thats what your Mini is set at then its more luck than anything else, they are hard to set with any great accuracy so if you dont mind spending £200 go for electronic. I cant agree withthe piston comment other than yes it would be nice to have one with the correct port holes in the piston, mine is from a IT175 and for what ever reason it works well. So for starters get those points set spot on, if that dont improve things have a look at the carb, whilst talking about the carb, if the lube system has been dumped and your running on premix make sure the hole where the oil was injected on the carb has been blocked. A mate of mine had been messing around with his bike for ages and I pointed out that he was pulling in air from the lube hole.

The thin gasket you mentioned are often in the gasket sets, I think but not sure that the thick one was an original from Yamaha. The standard 175 should run fine with plenty of power but as time goes by like all bikes it will start to fade. There are a few things that can compromise the performance even on a rebuilt engine, as you mentioned fitting new reed valves like Boyesen reeds will help if the old ones have work hardened and do not flex as well as they should. If you do fit them try going up on the pilot jet to 27.5 or even 30 and re adjust the mixture screw. If the ignition is not set correct as you mention then that's another thing that will not help. I have the electronic ignition that Trail and Trial sells and its never let me down. Hopefully the engine is in good general order, getting few performance parts will help . I will say that after I rebuilt my 175 it was a bit flat and I tried fitting several parts to improve it..all the parts helped a bit on the way...new carb...new reed block and boyesen reeds and bigger pilot...air filter box mod....boost bottle (cant wait to hear any reply on that one...again) Electronic ignition. I have the thicker gasket fitted on mine, never bothered with the thin one that I got in my gasket set as the bike runs fine with the thick one. Hope this helps

Hi, there is an oil seal on the linkage side, remove the small gear-change cover and the linkages and you should see the seal, how easy it is to remove I wouldn't like to say, you could try picking it out. Otherwise it will mean a strip down from the clutch side (not a bad job) removing the link bar and then pull it out. I would give it a try from the gear-change first.

Hi, if it is the pilot jet/air screw mixture is causing the problems then try giving it a bit of choke when the engine knocks and see if it improves the situation. My ty175 knocks like mad when the pilot jet gets a bit of snot in it.

Just out of interest can anyone remember these bike's in the dealers,ever wondered why the British bike industry failed, is it just a Yamaha with some British bits bolted on ? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6a1a7332

The original thread is hard to find on this subject, have a look here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/32439-before-and-after/page__p__247441__hl__%2Bty175+%2Bclutch+%2Bcover__fromsearch__1#entry247441

I thought this subject was going to confuse me, so changing the angle on the yokes will only change the Trail and not the Rake, was thinking it would give the same effect as changing the angle of the headstock, the idea was to try and reduce the easy rider chopper look and in doing so stop the front wheel washing away on a tight turn.http://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/softail-models/52894d1245721553-raked-triple-tree-causing-steering-problems-raked-trees-and-trail.jpg Looks like its back to the drawing board then.

If it starts OK then you would think that the slow running mixture is fine at that point but as the engine gets warm the mixture could then be a bit too rich, perhaps the choke remains partially open because its seating seal is worn or perhaps the slow running mixture screw needs adjusting. Check your choke and play around with the mixture screw.

Just been giving my forks a go over as they felt a bit knackered, stripped them down to find the left fork bottom was binding real bad on the stanchion and after a few hours of poking at it with a bit of wet and dry on the end of a wooden curtain pole it looks like the things sliding nice and free now. Put it all back together and the suspension is now so much better. I noticed whilst playing around with the forks just how much rake there is in the yokes alone and was wondering if anybody has thought of a way to pull back the rake so that the stanchions are more parallel with the stem. I have a few ideas of my own buts perhaps you guys have a better idea and perhaps an opinion.(I know about the frame cut and shut to adjust the rake but I'm more interested in adjusting the yokes) Cheers for any replies

I'm thinking about trying out some of the Magicals front fork springs on my TY175 as the old ones feel a little tired. Has anyone fitted them and noticed a change that would justify me buying some. Cheers for any replies.

Amazing what a bit of spit and polish can do http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a770d1332

I don't know if anyone has ever tried to check the operation of your ignition without the engine running, can be useful if the bike wont start and your unsure of whats causing it, especially if you have electronic ignition. I thought I would share this video on UTUBE with you as its a easy way of testing without annoying the neighbors and gassing yourself in the garage. This method will work on points and electronic so long as you have a drill or something that will rotate the engine. Don't say too much about the idiot doing it....its me.

There is another answer to this. Some people know exactly what they are selling and find it a little amusing to go along with the banter that comes with the advertised description of the item. I do think some of the items that sell for stupid prices are sometimes down to the guys mates bidding up the item just for a joke . Should have figured it out sooner as its the kind of sick humour I have.

I found a chap who has a few (old/new) stock ty pistons in the uk. These are the Dykes ring type with the correct window size in the piston, some are Hepolite and a few other brands. He has them for the 175 and 250 (twinshock), the 175 are only available in .25 and .50 sizes, don't know about the 250. If your interested give him a call on 01829 261641.

Its the same as when an advert mentions the word Majesty, some people just latch onto it. What ever makes ya happy.

If this is of any help the Haynes manual covers from 1974 to 1984 and I have never noticed any big changes mentioned, I think the only one that comes to mind was an improvement on the clutch push rod that changed from a one piece rod to a two part with a ball bearing. Could be wrong though.

I had my eye on a petrol tap on ebay, just coudn't believe how much it sold for.http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649

You could try and re fibreglass the lugs or use a two pack metal filler. Both are sold in Wilco's car parts. You should sand back the resin around the fixings to give a good key. If it was me doing it I would use the two pack metal filler as I have had some very good results with it.

I think I would drain the oil remove the cover and have a look at whats going on inside. Did you set up the selector arm as described in the Haynes manual? Just had another thought, if you have renewed the selector cover and linkage parts there could be a problem with those parts. I think somebody did mention they had a problem with the hole in the cover not being drilled straight causing the selector to bind. Have you tried to loosen the cover screws to see if it improves the return of the selector shaft.

Just out of interest, the Mini Majesty frame in question that Ausy300pro is trying to get registered for road use, was this not a frame that was made from scratch and never intended for road use. If it was not then the SVA should still apply. Good luck getting it on the road whatever way its done.

I think you are going to have problems getting it registered. If the frame is of a type that was never intended for road use then it will have to be single vehicle type approved. If it was me I would try and get a frame with a log book and either restamp the frame or cut the head stock off and reweld it to the new frame. If the police found out you would probably get locked up. Like I say thats what I would do. I could be talkuing out of me bum also

I noticed this on Ebay, do you think he's serious http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43aede449e