andy.t

Cant remember which MP it was that was trying to get it pushed through but there was talk of having to get all off road bikes registered in an attempt to stop illegal off road riding, like it would have stopped it what a dick head, anyway i think it was the ACU that managed to get it squashed, but rest assured the subject will be raised in the future especially if the government thinks they can get some money off you.

People gone mad, what credit crunch,

Glad you like the AJS, sorry to hear your ride was cut short, most people do say that the Mk 2 Amal is the best way to go. I have still only done the one scramble on mine but am looking forward to doing as many as I can next year, still need to try and improve my clutch though and a modified clutch pressure plate that fluff sells is on my Christmas list...thats the only thing I like about Christmas is the presents... and booze.

Not a 100% sure but its probably the same as the TY175 and just a perforated plate with no packing, the packing should be in the tail section.

davieboy, I do know the owner of one of the bikes he is the bloke that got me interested in doing the PRE65 Scrambles (its not the one with the Fluff extras) yes the other one does look a bit like mine however I have a Greeves aluminum tank on mine it looks good but not 100% sure If I would rather have the original.

davieboy, completed the Scramble on Sunday, the old AJS was brilliant it really did fly and handled like a dream, must give credit to the previous owner as he had all the work done on it like the Fluff Brown rebuild and all the Fluff extras. The only criticism with these bikes is the clutch as they do tend to drag. I took your advice and just stuck to a speed that I was comfortable with but still managed to get my foot stuck in someones front wheel at one of the jumps when a few riders collided, thank God I purchased descent boots. There is a Stormer on Ebay dont know if you have noticed it, starting bids at

I will be riding the bike this weekend for the first time,in fact first ever Scramble. I think the clutch is a bit better now as I pulled the clutch apart and cleaned up the steel plates. Still not sure about the oil in the gearbox as it smells like Castrol R40 so for now thats what is going back in. Hope I survive on Sunday must refrain from seeing the red mist.

Got myself an AJS 250 Stormer and going to do some classic scrambles, anyone an expert on tips for reducing the clutch drag, my gearbox tends to crunch and the bike lurches forward when put into gear, not to bad when its warm it just annoys me. (have cleaned out inside cases and changed the oil) Also does anyone know the best way to check if the gear oil in my gearbox is R40, I think its R40 just not sure and would like to change it to an EP mineral, if it is R40 anyone got any tips to flush it out. Regards Andy

Play around with the fork height, its what suits you best is the correct height.

You could look at this another way, with any luck the animal wont die in prison at our expense... dying a life of luxury. Lets hope someone will stone him when he gets out.

Would say go for the 360mm and try and leave about 18mm sticking above on the forks, it works for me. PS mine came from where you mentioned.

Hope you have managed to fix it, just Incase you haven't I would like to point out the method you used would only work on a normally closed switch so when you push the button it breaks the circuit. As your switch is a normally open it is used to short out the coil to earth which is just another method of stopping it running, I think the problem that confuses some people is that some kill switches have one wire,which is the type that shorts out to the handle bar when pressed and the wire goes to primary side of the HT coil, or the type which you have with two wires, one wire goes to ground and the other goes to the primary side of the coil.

I know its not exactly a pre 65 but thought perhaps someone would know some info on it. As far as I know its an AJS Stormer with a BSA C15 engine and what looks like a mod for oil in the frame. any info would br appreciated. have a click HERE

The details do say this example is for an engine without the reed valve, but in principal they should still work similar, as fuel air rush in and at the point the reed closes the mixture bounces back, which will cross the jets yet again, then when the reeds open again at this point you get the double rich mixture which is pretty much the same as the example shown. These are fitted to engines such as the Yamaha Blaster which has a reed valve with good results look HERE

Some of you may know that I have a boost bottle fitted on my TY 175, and some doubted whether it does anything to improve the performance, anyway I came across this info and thought it would be of interest , click HERE

ausy300pro, I ain't no expert on the subject but its my understanding that the small carbs provide higher air speeds which are more suitable to the low speed of a trials bike, not sure if going big is the answer, I think I would try bigger pilot jets on the original carb for a start. must admit I did think of trying one of those flat slide OKO carbs with a 24mm bore, I don't think anyone would complain about mods like this in the trials that I have done. My personal opinion on mods like sticking two shocks on TY mono is just pushing things too far.

Glad you have the piston sorted. I will say the electronic ignition that I (and my mate) have got fitted came from HERE and would say its been spot on, and their after sales service has been second to none.

Well I think its obvious who's the Canadian, its the 7th one to the right.

Have look HERE for your pistons, don't know why but the bigger ones are cheaper, just for the records my piston is a IT175 and the port window is not matched as per original but the bike runs well, perhaps one of the two stroke experts out there will explain the maths of where it might fail. I don't think the cage has enough metal for you to remove enough to make any vast difference although I do know it has been done by others.

subanator, You are correct in what you said about the position of the carb, but I have had mine fitted for over a year now with no problems(so has a mate of mine),if it does look a tad close you could always put a few washers behind the mid box fixing bolt to push it out a bit. with regards the air box, to date at all the classic trials I have done not a single person has mentioned it being a problem, its a home made item that could have been made back in the 70's. I think if you start to rob bits off modern bikes and fit, then thats not really in the spirit of the sport.

looking at the other side of the engine you could check the condition of the selector drum pins and selector arm, there is some useful info in the Haynes manual showing how the selector arm should be set up and checked, If I was you I would just keep riding the bike for now and try and work out how to flick the gear change to get positive changes.

It doesn't help with gear selection if there's slop in the gear change to the splines,the shaft where it goes into the housing and the connecting parts, worth having a look at this HERE ....They do tend to have the odd false neutral

the one i fitted was from a 350 lc but you will have to shave off a couple of bits of rubber that would have protruded into the reed valve, not a problem, just shave off with a Stanley blade.

when you fit the Boyesen reeds change the pilot to a 27.5 for a start, could even go higher but will have to experiment, the miss match on the inlet can be improved with an rd350 inlet rubber which will also give you a point to connect a boost bottle, dump the old air box and make a new one with improved air flow.