F5Dave

Sadly my index finger doesn't have the power or another joint so I've had to start riding with my middle finger doing the work. Nice moccasins. My electric button is on the right. Any reason for the left?

Thanks, I did see people suggesting that. And it might be worthwhile exploring for other reasons. But thinking I probably do most trials in 2nd, maybe 1st If it's particularly snotty, or 3rd if its an open bit. The ratios are fairly close. I dont want to change in section, unless i come up to a big obstacle. It's a compromise. Gearing down makes it possible to have an in between choice, but also means your gear has a shorter usable range. Selecting the right gear at the start is important, but my issue is the current range of operation is let's say 1cm and I want 2cm. It was quite aggressive and you had to be precise, it does seem more tolerant of my more sloppy riding technique, but driveway is not tree roots etc. Might be 3 weeks till I can test it. Thanks for ideas.

Hi, thanks for the detailed response. Yes I had seen that kit but figured i hadn't even changed the oil yet (I was off riding for a couple of years or at least Trials which is hard when your balance and coordination take a king hit. Actually I have to ride two finger clutch, well 1 &2/3 as i lost a tip. I mean I didn't lose it, I know where it ended up, hospital incinerator. But I find the '23 lever light enough. My issue is my body vs head is not as sharp as it once was. I'd asked my dealer what oil the guys use and he did mention he had a soft ring in stock so I thought it was a good 1st step. On my Beta I did the usual take sharp edges off plates they seem to suffer and machined so top hats to reduce the preload. Transformation. I've machined baskets etc on road and race bikes usually to add another plate when power has been increased (like my 500 kitted RZ350). But diaphragm are new to me. I guess that's kit is my next step if I'm still a loose cannon when I'm fit enough to do another Trial. Thanks.

As title. You can supposedly get a H, M, Or S support ring.. This apparently gives a softer, well if you choose S over M which is standard. I also put GRO Rockoil 75 in. There's f all difference in the support rings. But, well maybe I can tell the difference. I've only ridden up the driveway a few times and then in circles for a few minutes. Actually it does feel easier. My GG250 did seem more progressive . After a horrendous medical event I have been left clumsy and unbalanced. My GG would have been easier to come with..Jebuz, I'm lucky to be walking. But 2 years on if can ride my trials bike. But I am bouncing off stuff. Hence the softer ring. So more updates when I actually get to ride off road properly.

Thanks for posting that alternative. About time. Electric and RHS starters will make me consider Beta again. I've had two and consider the starting dumb. Actually- why was the lever 3" too short? Actually my Beta dirtbike (ok so 3 Betas) has Electric. A couple of kilos means Im not puffing every section before I start riding my TRS which is an advantage over my Betas and GGs. For the Club rider this is a real advantage. Good on Beta.

The best fuel mix is petrol and 2 stroke oil. Most people use more petrol than oil.

4. Is totally normal. RF interference can mess with digital ignition so this belt and braces approach subdue interference level.

100% agree with above. Have a look with flywheel off (you may need a puller). If there is any scoring you should lap the surfaces with fine valve grinding paste, tyen clean, then fit Correct size woodruff key. (Only stick out a little).

Really? The master cylinders I bet have the same part numbers and piston kits and plates the same. I obviously haven't bothered to check but I cannot fathom that a tiny manufacturer like TRS would run different builds, it would be crazy.

Heya. I have a 250RR 2023. Was told that the 250 was more suited to the Average rider. I'm probably more Average than the person in the normal scale divided by the test sample. I had a GasGas250 2014. The 250RR is much of the same in the power stakes. I don't find it a handful at all. Real easy to ride. Suspension is better than the GG, but not by a lot, both were real good.

OK cool, thanks

Any progress?

That's a bit sucky. I'll keep to my regime of kick it in the mornings to reduce wear. Spoke to distributor today with clutch noise. A bit "they all do that sir". My '14 TXT is much quieter (started it 10 min later).

Thanks. Starter works like a charm. Probably only 8hrs on this bike. Def noise reduces if clutch lever pulled in.

Heya I bought a 2023 250 one RR early in 23 and have only done about 3 trials on it, then fell horribly ill. Fast forward a year and I'm just about ready to ride it. I gave it a warning kick, then pushed the button and it started right up. But as I warmed it a little I did note that the clutch is rattling quite a bit. Goes away when you push the lever. Rode it around the lawn a few times. Same thing. How noisy do they get usually? My RZ350 backed its retaining nut off in the 90s and I don't remember it getting noisy (just it stopped disengaging, scary).

The elastic can be replaced with boot lace to stop. . . Well, use your imagination I was given a small magnet to stick on the frame of my GG . Makes an excellent back up. A friend lost a lanyard from my spare bike. We never found it. Must try find a place to stick it on my TRS, but steel is hard to find on it.

Anything low mileage will be great. Google local websites to see what part supply is like in country.

That's a dashed shame. But I think it is worth trying to repair that. Maybe attach a piece with low temperature welding rod on the outside. Doesn't have to seal, just attach. Then fill the groove with something square like a piece of rubber and apply JB weld to the gap. Surface on some wetndry. The outside of the groove is only at water temperature

I just got a 23 with electric. That was the main driver TBH. I was getting bored with kicking my 14 GG several times each section. I got a bit scared reading one chap here bag them for being sketchy at the front and selling it in a huffy. But then I saw reviews saying they felt like a GG, but with better suspension. And in summary yes. My GG was (is) a great bike, at least at my level. The TRS is even betterer. Bit unfair as 14 vs 2023 RR model. But push the button. Ringding. Nice.

If you get desperate an Ignitech may be the solution send them an email. It would likely be a rewire and a DCCDIP2. you would have to find space for it and run a DC charging cct. This may sound difficult to the uninitiated but a pretty average auto sparky could manage it. My only concern is that you have to have enough power from the AC stator lighting coils. On an enduro bike this is no problem. Maybe road legal TXT kit means the stator could handle it. You'd fit a generic scooter or bigger dirtbike rectifier regulator and a 25v capacitor about 2200uf or larger to replicate the battery. This might be simpler model. https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/dccdi/dccdi.htm Send them an email.

A rider of my skill level must have the RR of course. Largely because that's the only version the local importer brings in, but desperation demands any tiny percieved advantage.

Lube is your friend

Thanks. Finally got it on Friday. Love it so far. Just mucking around on it to bed it in. Adjusting lever etc. 1.2 hrs. Rebled front brake as seemed to come in a bit. Apparently they ship them with bars off in crates so air can get in.

A multi meter on the terminals should increase when the engine is running. DC voltage should go up to perhaps 14.5v at mid revs. ( haven't tried a TRS but general principle is the same). If it isn't you have a problem. You can then unplug the alternator and test AC voltage I'd be totally guessing here, perhaps 30 to 50 volts at mid revs. Clearly if its bugger all, then you problem is there. If its healthy, you problem is upstream. Which would throw immediate suspicion on the battery itself, but could be wiring or rectifier regulator.

My 23s bashplate covers the bottom of that area.