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F5Dave

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Everything posted by F5Dave

  1. F5Dave replied to F5Dave's topic in TRS
    Any progress?
  2. F5Dave replied to F5Dave's topic in TRS
    That's a bit sucky. I'll keep to my regime of kick it in the mornings to reduce wear. Spoke to distributor today with clutch noise. A bit "they all do that sir". My '14 TXT is much quieter (started it 10 min later).
  3. F5Dave replied to F5Dave's topic in TRS
    Thanks. Starter works like a charm. Probably only 8hrs on this bike. Def noise reduces if clutch lever pulled in.
  4. Heya I bought a 2023 250 one RR early in 23 and have only done about 3 trials on it, then fell horribly ill. Fast forward a year and I'm just about ready to ride it. I gave it a warning kick, then pushed the button and it started right up. But as I warmed it a little I did note that the clutch is rattling quite a bit. Goes away when you push the lever. Rode it around the lawn a few times. Same thing. How noisy do they get usually? My RZ350 backed its retaining nut off in the 90s and I don't remember it getting noisy (just it stopped disengaging, scary).
  5. The elastic can be replaced with boot lace to stop. . . Well, use your imagination I was given a small magnet to stick on the frame of my GG . Makes an excellent back up. A friend lost a lanyard from my spare bike. We never found it. Must try find a place to stick it on my TRS, but steel is hard to find on it.
  6. Anything low mileage will be great. Google local websites to see what part supply is like in country.
  7. F5Dave replied to Tallpaulself's topic in Beta
    That's a dashed shame. But I think it is worth trying to repair that. Maybe attach a piece with low temperature welding rod on the outside. Doesn't have to seal, just attach. Then fill the groove with something square like a piece of rubber and apply JB weld to the gap. Surface on some wetndry. The outside of the groove is only at water temperature
  8. F5Dave replied to Peabody's topic in TRS
    I just got a 23 with electric. That was the main driver TBH. I was getting bored with kicking my 14 GG several times each section. I got a bit scared reading one chap here bag them for being sketchy at the front and selling it in a huffy. But then I saw reviews saying they felt like a GG, but with better suspension. And in summary yes. My GG was (is) a great bike, at least at my level. The TRS is even betterer. Bit unfair as 14 vs 2023 RR model. But push the button. Ringding. Nice.
  9. If you get desperate an Ignitech may be the solution send them an email. It would likely be a rewire and a DCCDIP2. you would have to find space for it and run a DC charging cct. This may sound difficult to the uninitiated but a pretty average auto sparky could manage it. My only concern is that you have to have enough power from the AC stator lighting coils. On an enduro bike this is no problem. Maybe road legal TXT kit means the stator could handle it. You'd fit a generic scooter or bigger dirtbike rectifier regulator and a 25v capacitor about 2200uf or larger to replicate the battery. This might be simpler model. https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/dccdi/dccdi.htm Send them an email.
  10. A rider of my skill level must have the RR of course. Largely because that's the only version the local importer brings in, but desperation demands any tiny percieved advantage.
  11. Lube is your friend
  12. Thanks. Finally got it on Friday. Love it so far. Just mucking around on it to bed it in. Adjusting lever etc. 1.2 hrs. Rebled front brake as seemed to come in a bit. Apparently they ship them with bars off in crates so air can get in.
  13. A multi meter on the terminals should increase when the engine is running. DC voltage should go up to perhaps 14.5v at mid revs. ( haven't tried a TRS but general principle is the same). If it isn't you have a problem. You can then unplug the alternator and test AC voltage I'd be totally guessing here, perhaps 30 to 50 volts at mid revs. Clearly if its bugger all, then you problem is there. If its healthy, you problem is upstream. Which would throw immediate suspicion on the battery itself, but could be wiring or rectifier regulator.
  14. My 23s bashplate covers the bottom of that area.
  15. That's encouraging to hear. I've bought a 23 250RR sight unseen so unridden. But its somewhere in shipping between our two main islands (New Zealand) during a period of shipping strife with all sorts of delays. Hope will get it for weekend. Sniff.
  16. And was it fitted to an electric start model or kick only? Starter gear will add weight unless they have a specific lighter flywheel, which I very much doubt. JJG needle on 250 or 300? Other jetting experiences guys? (Yet to touch mine. . Like physically touch it).
  17. F5Dave replied to bikerpet's topic in TRS
    Watching as picking up a 23 end month.
  18. Is that the new Alpinestar UrbanTrials range she is rockin?
  19. Date codes stamped into the rims. An 03 will have 03 or 02 rims. It won't have 04 rims. Looks like my 08 pretty much. Muffler shield changed a bit, Keihin carb.
  20. That's a point, I assume my 250RR will have just electric, no kick. I'm kinda ok with that as like my Beta XTrainer. Great system in that the sprag gear sits at the very bottom of the flywheel cavity in an indentation. A splash of trans oil in there that settles to the bottom when engine stops so effectively lubricated unlike so many of the afterthought enduro systems. I imagine Beta will implement same thing on Trials . Guess they must be due a new engine.
  21. That's like my Rev3 stand. Enormous. Now you should try park my GasGas. It has a Stiletto. Never rains in Spain apparently.
  22. Well I'll find out soon, ordered a 250RR yesterday. It's at the shop now as my timing for imports was perfect. . . but cant go get it for three weeks as the interisland ferry service has gone crazy and is booked up until then. Never seen it like this.
  23. My GG300 dirtbike has a hole drilled above exhaust port standard. Makes it easier to kick over but doesn't lose too much as it is small at running revs.
  24. F5Dave replied to AlanC's topic in Gas Gas
    They only throw a couple of mm or so. Check steel plates for warping. Also check parts diagrams for washer between basket and hub for example.
  25. Not much help, my TR34, if that's what it actually was was an 89 I seem to recall. I was told they came in both 240 and 260 at some stage. If you check the rims there will be writing stamped on them saying when the rims were made. Now a 1989 model could have been made late 1988 or with rims left over from then. Or they could be same year. But unless replaced won't be newer. So it gives you a good clue, and there's two to compare.

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