copemech

phallic devices once

I doubt I will run out and get new bones simply for the sake of change myself. But at the same time, I see an possibility here. The bones are now thicker, so you can grind off a couple grams! Or just make them out of TI, at half the thickness and bulk of originals!

and muff polish

Ok, I suppose this may have been a bit obscure, yet I was hoping some might relate this to some of Phil Smage's videos, or himself(pun). Guess none get into Smagical Smagma!

next to the

Not sure they invited you back either!

Friend sent me the piccy for comparison. Seems obvious the new dogbones have a smaller hole to accept the thinner bearings, and a part number change on the 'bones is in order as the tophat bush seem to be the same. Seeing these new bearings in situ, I am doubting they are of a bronze base material at all as they are too thin. I think it likely they are a coated steel insert of a certain material used to reduce "stiction" similar to those used in fork sliders. Wonder if anyone has put a magnet to them?

The piston skirt seems to make no real difference, and the parts do directly interchange in this case.

Good deal. Be sure the pump seals face each other and the shaft is not grooved excessivly! Cheers,

Hummmm,

seen bigger camels

Nothing like putting a smart assed brit in there to take some p*** from the lot! Wonder if they will invite him back?

Does seem like you would have to break this down to rim vs tire. I hope the tire is fully seated on the rim, guaged by the little rubber line cast into the tire just outside the rim? I have had some of these that never wanted to fully seat on the bead and kept rolling in, almost as tight as a rear bead!

Well, that is all good, but the old standard HK bearings are probably about 3mm thick in the wall, or roughly 6mm difference in ID vs OD, no exact numbers here, and by the pic, these will not do? As they appear only about 1mm thick, so something else has to change. If the inner bushings are the same, then the bore size in the dogbones would have to be reduced to accept the thinner bearings.... If Howard cannot get a grip on this question, maybe someone can call MRS or Splatshop to get an answer?

Long story made short, there is no overflow tube on this carb, only bowl vents(higher up), so yes, if fuel valve does not shut off, or floats stuck, fuel will run up and out the jets and into the bore of the carb and into the motor. A carb like the Kiehin that has a overflow tube, well it is totally useless on a trials bike due to the angle of the carb. With the history of your bike, with water and mud injestion, you can bet it all came in through the intake and carb, and this can be a real bitch to totally clean and get everything working well, but sounds like you are on the right track. Small particles can be your enemy here, and you will never see them without extreme measures.

Does sound as though your taper fitment on the shaft and flywheel may need attention. These things will not shear a woodruff key if the flywheel is fitted properly, reguardless of other ignition problems. Not quite sure about "got the nut as tight as it would go with a scaffy bar on the end" really equates to, but to torque this properly, you need a flywheel holder and torque wrench set to 100nm. Exceeding this could damage the threads, then you are screwed, so you cannot simply drive it into submission with a rattle gun.

Old retired MX rider that just wanted to piddle, on a bike! Where are you?

I just wonder if Ham has tracked her(him) down on the Facebook yet!

into the shadow

oward is a reputable fellow it seems, as I have got stuff of him in the past. Not sure what he is onto here, as reports seem to verify that our initial thought that these are not correct as per the picture. Send him another reply, Neo, stating that he needs to ck on this!Or we shall call upon The Addict! to rattle his cage! Think he knows Howard!

Thoughts around this seem to point to a carb float valve that is not sealing properly due to poor seal or a bit of trash, thus the motor will get filled with fuel after shutoff, if the fuel valve on the tank is not closed while sitting. Worst case, new needle and seat for the carburator. Dellortos are not bad about sticking floats, as they work independantly, as compared to others. Yot you do want to insure the float arms are set parallel with the carb body when the carb is inverted.

Hmmmm, does seem a bit clunky! Probably at or near reasonable limits, mind the fact it is non Grinding or knocking means it does still run, so does not absolutly have to happen tomorrow. Still in the winter, so not a bad time to do it. About three choices here: Do it yourself and make a month long kitchen table project out of it, like Zippy, Ham, and others! Pull the motor and take it to your reputable dealer for a quick turn and get it back in a day or three, depending. Take the bike and let them fight with it, kick back and enjoy life!

without taking a

After that pick-up game of basketball at the YMCA I needed to change my shorts because they were soakin' wet with smagma.

One really needs to refer to that urban dictionary thing again. Although an intentional mis of the original word, seems as though Pax made a good attempt.