copemech

I rub vaseline on my nipples!

Dum de dum de dum!!!!!!!!!!! Try solder and a drill!

You may need to pump them a bit to get air out the dampers. Trick to get the bottom screws to nip up without spinning is to use the rattle gun.

So, VHST opinion. Still at this point, all I can say as not ownin one is that the carb seems to have the basic design features of the well working and powerfull Kiehin. Probably just as jikky if not more, and seems out the box they ain't all that great. Require some tuning in either 26/28 version and it may work well. If that was what I had to work with, then I could probably make it work. In a quick summary, different folks want and expect different things from a bike! Some prefer smooth and progressive power, others quickness and lots o'power, with some in the middle. I think the standard PHBL works fine for most. Even Ryan Young told me he had just as well use it unless on the big rocks such as Donner and such. Seems to me the 26 OKO may be the ultimate overall tradeoff for performance, untill the time Kiehin puts a 26 into production. I seen specs on them at some point on a website, yet never seen the unit!

It is all fun in a sense I suppose. Fact is I gat my belly full of crap on a daily basis working on stuff for a living. You know what they say, last thing a mechanic wants to do is come home to work on his own crap! The bike and aircraft is just simple therapy to get my head out of the day. Little OKO was a good project don't you think! Cost me a good $75 and weekend off! I would not give you two shakes for a friggin dellorto that don't work decent out the box, no less 150 english quid things! Add the parts to adjust it ! 26/28 whateve! Las I heard, most the top riders are back on the 28K carb. This list may include Cabby and Wigg on top(Paxau), and others such as Smage in the US. We shall see. All point being, I would rather ave nother beer than chunk dosh at it!

Question is, WTF would you want to if you got a perfectly good working 26 OKO?

Another thing Chewy, you may want to set the idle up just a bit. As example, if sitting running warmed up in neutral, mine sounds slightly high, yet when in gear it settles a bit to a decent level. Set to a point that in second gear, bike will set at no throttle and chug along without stalling whilst coming up a slight incline, such as off my street and up the drive. Mind you, part of this has to do with ignition timing, as set advanced they will likely kickback stall at true chug speed.

Where you got the timing set? I think you gotta likely go back 3-4mm on the plate from standard to get it about where you want it.

You should be able to do so with good success if you keep them tensioned evenly. Worst thing can happen is you may need to have someone re-true them a bit. I have used the silecone grease on the threads as well to keep corrosion down. If yours are rusty on the outside, you may find the threads are corroded as well!

Honestly, I would not reccommend either unless you are building a shed queen. Call Marky at H&D Racing. He can tell you all the fine details.

Yea, heard that, more in relation to what they cost to produce than anything! One could probably trace that basic carb back to a time when it was true! Better than an Amal, me thinks!

I think I will need another batch o'beer to get into the VHST thing, later!

Dellorto carbs: As many others, my motto is still "the PHBL is still the best $15 carb ever produced". It just works like a AK47! I did radius the inlet a bit, not sure irf it really helps, but cannot hurt the flow transition it seems. The standard 26mm version is a tradeoff, and there is no alt. As someone else here mentioned, I got my best results running the pilot rich, at a 38, yet leaning the fuel screw down to around 1.5-1.3/4 range(on our fuel). Sorry, but I don't buy all that BS about running them 3.5 turns out on the screw with a lean jet, screw becomes useless. Just take a look at the taper of it and the screw threads! Never lost the pinging before that either! The low speed circuits are imperfect, as stated, yet as far as controllability goes, it seems to me that ones is just simply trying to overcome the limitations. There seems to be a lean spot at transition to needle, or let's say off idle to about 1/8 throttle. This is based upon the "transition circuit" and is unafected by the fuel screw yet runs on the pilot jet. (the other little hole just behind the nozzle) So basically what I am doing here is taking the pilot jet up into a range that I can really control the idle mix as best possible by getting the screw in a working range(which is also sensitive now) and getting the transition to needle to flow as best possible to accomodate the shortcomings. Properly set, and a tad(push)on the lean side(screw), the Idle is good, and low end power smooth, and transitions well with good power, still smooth. If it gets a bit lumpy on the transition(unregulated circuit) then you have gone too far with the pilot and may need to back off a bit. Needle in third groove down on the clip, so rich as well. And thats all i have to say bout that!

For clarification to some: The OKO carbs are basically a copy of the Kiehin PWK. I think the OKO's are produced in Tialand or something, could be wrong there. Parts directly interchange it seems, although I seem to recall hearing some issue on slides. A budget version, the overall quality of manufacture of OKO is not as good as a Kiehin, and I think one needs to give them a good clean and inspection prior to install, as mine had some casting slag in it, but functionally, they are a good working copy at a level of build quality similar to a Dellorto I would think. Problem with a Kiehin PWK seems trifold to me. Firstly, seems they only offer it in the 28mm version.(good for some, not for others) Secondly, they are just more sensitive than a Dellorto PHBL, and may require more adjustment on the day. Thirdly, they require more phisical space and can be difficult to fit on earlier Sherco models due to space limitations. A tight fit which is a bit of a pain in the butt! OKO Carbs: Issues 2 and 3 still apply as stated above. Good things are they are available in a range of bore sizes on the same basic casting. Add, relatively inexpensive. Seem to come set up fairly well if you get one from a decent supplier. Bad things: Seems there is no left side bowl vent provision in the casting as with the Kiehin. I really dislike that due to the proximity of the vent on the right side to the muffler on a sherco. On a Kiehin, I can open up the left vent which assures proper venting.

Nothing like an old Texas storyteller! Funny! (language caution)

Now I suddenly understand it all. And find you rather repulsive at the same time!

A good shared experience there! As you always want to hear the little "click" of slide hitting bottom after working on things prior to starting the bike! Otherwise, you have only about 0.2 seconds before the kill button no longer functions! You would be lucky if it did not sieze the piston off cold!!!! . You actually gotta pull the cable to rip the top off the throttle housing on the bars!!!!! Then it will return as long as the slide itself is not stuck.

Yes, I did play with one, as they are cheap and disposable Chineese made crap.. Save your money for a standard plug!

Hummm, been waiting for this topic to come up fro a while now based upon folks experience. All basically comfirms my initial thoughts. Am a bit surprized to see what carbs are winding up on what bikes. Seems to me that although the VHST shares most the attributes of the Kiehin carb, is is simply not as well refined. Add seems they can both be more fiddly, yet I do not find the personal desire, time or money to try to polish a VHST, in either 26 or 28 version. All said, I did not seem to find a particular complaint in Rockyrider's post, so if it is working for him as well as anything, well just go on. If not, then I would likely just find a good phbl and put it on for the sake of (simple just works)and leave it alone. I got a good working Phbl here in front of me, but even though I got an OKO oon the bike, I'd rather keep the Phbl than trade it off for a Vhst, because it just works!

firmly inserted between

Well, if you cleaned the thing properly, you should know wots init! What did Chris reccommend as UK set? I figuer if it came as a 30 pilot, it will be weak as runnyshat!

Good job then, you did it yoursel?

Dan is playing devil's advocate here, and I agree with him. Long story made short, all the hype from plug makers is mostly marketing BS. I have seen some horrid designs, and results. If your bike or car or whatever specs a certain plug, you are well advised to stick with it, not another brand or style from another maker, or even the same maker in some cases. The only real thing positive in respect to trials bikes seems to be the NGK plugs which are speced for many bikes seem to work well in their platinum and irridium varients and seem to offer a better resistance to fuel and oil fouling. At the same time I say that, someone willcome along and putt around all day never cleaning out the bike or getting any heat into the motor and foul a costly plug! I have been able to run a slightly more open gap at .7mm reliably for years now, but would be hesititant to recommend it to all because the systems are limited, and may not support it. You are your own test pilot here! I do not even push my own luck here for the sake of experimentation. I let young and dumb volunteers do that work! The standard plugs are cheap! I have gone all season on one, then chunk it! Also chunk them at the first signs of hard starting and such. Seems they may give a bit of warning if you listen.

Hav said I never relly liket the boys singing to me, but I would like to see if 's bassist could sing a bit! Skinny bloke on guitar is still a fav.

which did'nt tickle