copemech

Cheers and welcome, Might see if you can get that swingarm to a (good) qualified welder!(been done before) Or if nothing else, sign up for the classified section on here with a want ad! Never know who may have one around! Cheers,

Yes, but this is only neccessary in extreme cases of damage due to a slip and shear to the point that the hard metals of the crank and wheel have been damaged to the point they no longer fit together. Any "smearing" of the softer metal of a keyway should be removed to hopefully prevent the need to perform this, yet all in all, it is just a re-polishing of the original surfaces, by hand.

Note the positioning of the screws in the slots exactly(gaps at either side) and you should be ok I would think. Good luck!

on their big

Yup, that just about makes them seals clear as mud, Jon! Seems a new video may be in order!

There are some BAD issues with this approach Neil. What Ryan will teach is applying and maintaining inside peg pressure, inside arm straight, lean the bike and maintain untillyou need to straighten up. ALL situations! If you get accustomed to transferring weight to the outside peg in a turn, you will suddenly find yourself pushing or wheeling right out the tapes on an uphill transition,and the front gets light. Only way to maintain the turn is with the inside peg! And this transitions perfectly into the floater! Keeping the bike in balance with the feet just lets the front follow and flow, as it will just roll over all sorts of stuff.!

I might suggest an alternat method, all depending upon the hill,and the run-up. If one has a bit of a run area, accelerate as hard and quickly as one can at the bottom, getting high revs and storing some energy in the bike to carry you up without spinning or having to apply power over slippry roots and such using then steady power or none at times. Momentum can get you a long way toward the top! And with less effort!

Nothing sounds artifical here! Sounds like he blew it all the way back to the gas tank! Double ck that fuel supply can! Oils can separate out in cold weather.

down feather pillows

You really only need the coolant to cover the fins in the rad. Hard to see in there, use a mirror!

All about the money for them, trials dont pay! They are not (re-tired)!

Said he got a 250 Gasser now and off the kids bike. Now if Bigfook can just manage to get a couple pints per day down his gullet, he wil be a lot more relaxed. Then some real sausages or fried Spam for breccy! Not even sure the lad is putting real eggs in all that tofu crap he is eating nowadays! He need a bit o' grease! They got a McDonalds in the Fort?

This topic usually sparks(pun) similar experiences accross the board. Fact is one must be very careful when changing plugs nowadays, specially when changing brands, as they are not all equal, and some will simply quit running! I could tell you horror stories about all this in automotive applications. They can do some jikky stuff with the computers and such! Long story made short, if the bike was speced for say a NGK BP5ES(non resistor), and you went with an Irridium BPR5IEX or whatever it is, they cost a lot and even though I have heard no complaints, I doubt you would gain much except some resistance to fouling, given they are set to the same gap. The bike seem to tolerate the resistor, but I would not push things here as trials motors have no excess ability to produce spark, which is why most limit the gap to .5-.6mm range to begin with. Adding the resistor potentially nullifies any excess spark availability you may have had. Where as if you went from the standard plug to a BP5EVX Platinum, it would cost less, you would have similar properties, and without the added resistor, you might just be able to take advantage of the better electrical properties of the conductors and(within the limitations of the system) open the gap slightly to a true .6-.7mm range to gain a bit beter flamefront propagation and cleaner running off the bottom. One must be careful here, as under high engine loads, it could flame out once you have reached the limits of the little ignition system to produce reliable voltage, specially at low revs and high throttle loads. All said, I am still running the same VX platinum I installed in '07. Worth the money? Not sure, as I still carry a spare!

Once good and warm, they will spit out excess from expansion. (self adjusting) Need some airspace in the rad.

Do you know what system is is for sure. Thoughts being you may well need a regulator tied into the lighting circuit to keep from popping lamps at revs, but I cannot figure you need a rectifier with no battery or fan. Could be 6V lighting? Most regulators ar e just a simple "T" shunt to earth for the excess voltage. Just got to get the right one!

The Mont is a stady steed, but heavy and slow as compared to that year Sherco. The Mont is easier to learn on for a novice, and the Sherco more agressive in the power delivery. Much here depends upon what you want, and your level of riding.

Seems to me that many tires will go on without the "mousse" , but on occasion you get no choice, just that tire.

Did Billy Craig get in? Damn tenner = 15 or so here! Only way I'm going there is if a fiver goes toward beer!

One cannot centipede that next 2-3 ft rock in the section, he is done, even if he gets to it!

Oh God, now I got you to deal with on these! Well there you go matey, but I still think I would break the carb over a collection bowl to see what comes out. Nothing like a fresh start! Am a bit jealous BTW, like that bike and want one, maybe later, let us know how you get on with it!

Well you got to ck it again. It should not have sheared a key. If it has then, you gotta get that part right first. If not,then on to the rest. I would try a CDI unit first, before going to the stator. But I am lazy. And Cheap, so I would borrow one!

to ream the

Thought you were leaking around the spokes? Just a couple thoughts here. Even though getting them onto the rim may be fairly easy, then getting them to seat onto the outer beads of the rim when applying air, you should get two distinctive "pops" as the beads pop into position, usually requiring at least 30 or so psi, even with good lube. Good pop it is too, usually, as they are tight. Not sure about the IRC, but on a Mich and Dunlop, there is a little fine line moulded on the tire just outside the bead that one can look at to insure it is seated evenly all around. Seems to me in order to get a good measure on these, you would need to do it yourself in the same spot, and with the same tool or rule to be accurate enough.

How the hell would you know! Duh!

Not road racing here Pete! Like Lineaway said, I also have witnessed a few incredible feats by some on practice tires that I may have trashed long before. However , flipping a tire or putting on new is Always good for the ego! I have sold perfectly good used sets of Mich for $50 that others disguarded!