copemech

One really needs to refer to that urban dictionary thing again. Although an intentional mis of the original word, seems as though Pax made a good attempt.

I'll give you my take on this. I do not think the Morad rims start out overly straight to begin with, specially in the weld area(I think Chewy recently brought this up). The rims can distort on rocks and such, which usually produces a noticable spread section, and I have successfully used a bit of heat(not much, just 2-300 deg)and a large plastic deadblow hammer to move things back to an acceptable range. They will crack if you try to move them too much. All in all, I kinda do not beat my head against the wall on these things. If I get one within +- 2mm, is good to go, so 4mm runout. You never feel it when riding. That would be my guess! The Talon rims are supposed to be better and stronger,and expensive. And I have not bent one bad enough to go there as yet!

Caddabs, I would not panic as yet. These bearings start out with some clearance of .003-.004 in. Although there appears to be no official published service limits here, I would expect them to come in at 2-3 times new limits. Obviously this bike is not new, and would expect wear for age. Hopefully it has been decently cared for without a lot of water and dirt ingress into the motor. (kills the bearings) All point being, if the motor is smooth and quiet with smooth rotation and no ragged pitted bearings roughness, you might want to quantify this thing a bit more by taking an up/down measure of things using a dial indicator on the flywheel. Taking this logic a bit further, if one took the new limits x3, of .009-.012in then figured the added arm to the outer part of the flywheel, you may get somewhere around around .020 as a number, or around .5mm. All estimates, as I have no hard numbers on this, but hopefully you get a take on it. Possibly others have taken some measures here?

No, you have failed. Told you it was. Got to google it! End result the same, though.

Use the word Smagma in a coherant sentance! This is technically challenging for some!

Seen that, not quite sure about it. Possible they have gone with that type design with a thicker bushing. As fitment of the bronze bearing can be a bit trickey as the things basically require a ream-to-fit after installation, this type bearing witha different bush may not require that. Possibly someone needs to call DK Bikespares or Splatshop, or MRS to see whats up with all this.

You can consult with Dave on this, but I think getting the flyweight on and setting the timing bacl 2-4 mm on the plate would be much more effective, as addind one gasket does not really do all that much in my experience.

Think that true!

Oh really! Guess we have to pick up the Brass as well! Is Coyote shredding permitted, or just domesticated animals! Are there any Hogs? I am suddenly inspired to make a good trip out of this five hour drive to the middle of bum---k, and just strap on the real hardware along with the butt can! Would you think the .223 sufficient, or should I take the big iron?

Get yourself a bike from THIS decade, you will be happier in the long run! Cheers!

This is true! We shall see! I am not at all sure about these VHST carbs as yet, I was under the impressio they came in the 26mm version originally, then the 28? Not sure what is on the Economy model? Help!

Careful what you wish for with the FI thing. Can add a lot of cost and complexity to things. Will be of interist to see how this Ossa thing works, but a good working carb is hard to beat. Even though these systems are pretty basic as compered to what I deal with on cars and trucks, both gas and diesel, if out in the field, I prefer one thing, That is: Works, and is field repairable if possible! With what you have.

would I ever

massaged my big

Has a nice rear mudguard extension with plate holder, and a front mud diflector under the rad! Marzz forks! No Ohlins installed, though! Money no object, I would have one here, tomorrow!

Just for clarification, the little tophat things(inserts or inner race) should be steel I would think, and will rust with water incursion, this I would call the bushing. The part that these go into, roller bearing or other, I would call the "bearing", and I am thinking the new ones are of bronze material(yellow metal), which in itself should not rust. There are other possible material combinations here, yet normally not simlar materials.

Good trials boots are nice to have, yet I would not consider them to be an absolute neccessity as a beginner. Good hiking boots that are comfortable with a waffle sole fairly flat(no big heel) and decent ankle support will work, Just as important I think, is a good set of knee and shin guards that strap around the calf. They will likely go down to the boot anyway. I use the youth versions of the MX stuff, just about right for trials. And trust me, your knee caps will love you for it in a tip over on a rock!

Yea, as Chris said, they should idle sweet is all is good. Wit the bike been kinda sitting up for a while, you really got to watch out for water dropout of the fuel or condensation as well as particulates. Insure tank and fuel supply can are clean. The banjo screens seem adiquate, and if you have long tubes installed on the bowl vents, these should be removed. Many run without them, but I always run a short hose about 1.5 inches as a crap deflector. Once right, the stock dellorto is a pretty stable and forgiving carb, though. Hopefully there is nothing else wierd going on.

miniature collection of

Said he is 21 years old, average build, so even a 125, would be a good starter bike as they are gentile through the range yet will perform quite well through advanced levels of difficulty.

was a tad

Luverly!

Most common thing would be dirt in the jets. Recommend breaking the carb over a clear glass catch bowl to see what comes out. Pull the jets and note the sizes, and find a fine wire to pass throught the idle jet. flush well and blow out all passeges, including small ones in the bore behind slide. Clean filter behind fuel inlet banjo bolt.

had fallen in