copemech

Well, whatever happened it does seem they have come to their senses. As I stated this is a spotty issue, but the importer has seen it as well, and no fault of your own. Push start the friggin thing to see if it runs you puss!

I wonder if we in the states will ever get a chance to see one?

Agreed. One of the big things on a Sherco is the fact you need to keep the muff clean and free of excess buildup of oiley residue. And excess oil usage is not environmentally friendly either. Unless you are running a high speed road trial event, I cannot figure a reason for it. Neo, heard from TFT?

Say NO to Crack!

All good to insure these things are well greased and such, but back to original post. If the rose joints get a bit creakey, a shot of spray lube(WD)usually settles them. Hit them after washing along with the other stuff! And TFT needs to clear out his messages!

One of the lads found THIS It covers most everything, clear as mud!

All good then. If that was the case, there may have been a tear in the boot where the rod goes into the MC. Packing underneath with silecone grease helps as well. A little lesson for others here, as this is often overlooked untill ultimatly fails.

like the phallus

Dere you go, Steve in snow! Good to have friends in places that know!

So there you go, OK iI was generalizing here and Jon caught me at being off by approx .0003 or so. He can be such a pain sometimes! But long made short, if you can pass .009 between the skirt and the bore within normal piston travel, there is an issue. There are much better ways of measureing all this, but basically what you have said means it needs to go to a reputable shop with a boreing bar and a decent tech. There should be someone local. Good news also is the RL and enduro pistons were the same as I recall, so oversize should be readily available in factory of aftermarket I would think, and not too pricy!

Sounds as though you may have other issues, but many here run lean and clean on 80:1 with full synth oils on the pro bikes. The excess just bogs things down and dirties it up. 62.5 for 5L. Mant punters run at 100:1 with no issue. Now admittedly, this experience is limited to probably less than a couple thousand riders over the last decade or so, but it seems to hold true. We are still waiting to see if one will actually blow up!

Not sure exactly what all you had apart during the repair, but normally if things lock down when engageing a gear, it either means the mating gears are incorrect or there is more than one set of gear elements engaged at the same time. This could be caused by something as simple as a shim washer out of position not allowing one set of gear elements to disengage fully(as can happen with a bent or misplaced shift fork . Hopefully you can spot the problem by removing the left case half and rotating things in neutral detent as there should be no sliders off center and no elements engaged and the gear clusters should rotate freely independantly! Hope that helps

Gold ain't bad!

Should come off after loostening the grub screw. Swing the lever out halfway so the ball is not in the detents. Might be best to remove the entire assy. and do it on the workbench so as to not loose the ball and spring!

Call Marky Boy at H&D racing. He can give you the lowdown on all this, but bottom line is it is tricky, and possibly not all that durable with benting mudguards on modern bikes. Get a good look at plastic bumpers on cars as example! Good paint is extremely expensive.

I find this good to see TFT and Neo have managed to do a bit if riding. Still waiting to hear Tim's reports on the new bike. Spew it out mate! And the "who topped who"

Not having run the IRC, Icannot comment on them, although seems to me the South UK guys riding in the nud seem to swear by them. I just throw on a Dunlap, and seems I can run them as low as needed without probs. Other thing I was going to point out was after installing the 24 OKO and taking the bike to some limits on the big mountain hills in TN, I kicked the timing back up a bit, to about a -2mm rotation on the plate, as it just seemed a bit lacking under load, and a bit too slow. An entirely different perspective on the running as compared to flatland running, when you gotta pull hundreds of yards of long hills at mid throttle. Had to adjust the main jet quite a bit. So current setting, smaller carb, better progression, still good power and relatively quick response. Still has a "kicker" in the mid revs when needed whick I think has to do with the dual stage reeds. Onse again, I could do with a bit heavier flywheel I think, but this is another issue!

While hitting on the rules and such, the other "thing" is the (BACKING UP)rule. When taken to the stricktist limit, I feel it is a bit much, and not in the Spirit of the trials. A bit of settling of the bike, rocking when stuck in a hole and such, bouncebacks, is a lot different that moving back for advantage. Settling back into a hole is a good example, don't know I can put a number on it, but backing out the hole for another attempt would be the kicker for me. All point being "for advantage"!

On second thought, at those prices you can ship them to me and I can reproduce them in CF and send them back!

Jeez that sounds loose! Best I recall, air cooled 2T is set up a bit looser than the watercooled bikes , but not too much. I am thinking the clearance on a new piston should be about .002in, wear limits about .006 or a rebore is needed(if it is steel)and first oversize piston. PM Jon,(JSE)to confirm my impressions if he does not pick up on this thread.

Wonder if any these work? My link

A Bikers story of assisted suicide! > A tough looking group of bikers were riding when they saw a girl about to jump off a bridge so they stop. > > > > The leader, a big burly man, gets off his bike and says, "What are you doing?" > > > > > "I'm going to commit a suicide," she says. > > > > While he did not want to appear insensitive, he didn't want to miss an opportunity he asked "Well, before you jump, why don't you give me a Kiss?" > > > > So, she does and it was a long, deep lingering kiss. > > > > After she's finished, the biker says, "Wow! That was the best Kiss I have ever had. That's a real talent you are wasting. You could be famous > > > Why are you committing suicide?" > > > > > "My parents don't like me dressing up like a girl......" > >

Looks like a job for Addict!

Carbs and sizes, The ellipse! Ironically, these bikes all came with a 26mm Dellorto PHBL for years, in 125,250,272 range. Same for some other brands. It is a versitle carb, and runs well in most applications if well jetted. I am not going to get into theories of volumetric efficiencies here, but it still remains a big carb like the 28mm Kiehin will flow more mix, and deliver more power if the motor can take it. This carb does seem a more precise metering device, delivering smooth power down low, yet still lots of it. Problem here it simple fact it is a larger bore carb! Thus, for a given mm of tug on the slide movement, you get a bigger "HOLE"(ellipse)as the thing opens up!!!!!! So for a 1mm movement on things, on a set idle opening, the larger carb simply reacts more by allowing more air in as there is a bigger bore...... This same effect applies throughout the range till the ultimate flow rates are reached, and limiting total power based upon flow. All this basically translates into two factors it seems. The Kiehin seems a better mixing device, and the smaller the carb, the better progression. As Kiehin does not seem to produce it's carb in the smaller versions, the OKO copy seems the only available option throughout the range of sizes depending upon what you want. The OKO is also CHEAP! By comparison, and if I ad my wishes, I would likely be on with the OKO 26, on a 250, rather than choking down the 272cc bike with a 24mm, yet at the same time, I cannot really tell any top end loss from the 26 Dell, must suppose it just flows a bit better, which is not hard to imagine if you take a look at the inlets!

Ormplus could well be right here, although this is one teknique I have personally stayed away from over time due to the fact that it is more labor intensive, and less easily reversed. The Max number is 3, btw, and if my measures are roughly correct, the standard gaskets are 0.25mm thick each, allowing a change of .5 mm. I recently did a somewhat quick refresh of my '07 2.9 with a cleaning and inspection and a fresh ring set. It came from factory with ond standard gasket plus one 0.05mm shim gasket. Having the chance to experiment a bit, I just went back with 2 standard gaskets, so it is in the middle here. Difficult to determine here due to fresh rings, but yet as things have seated in a bit over a few riding sessions, I am really unsure I can tell much difference at this point, and may still recomend doing external mods as the Boyeseens first. Cheap mod, and easily changed if needed. I think if I had to summize things in my personal taste, I do not mind riding a fairly quick and powerful modern bike, I simply like it a bit more controlable and progressive, and find little need for more, only less power, if anything. I still like the quicker throttle tube, yet with a smooth bike.