copemech

Beer cans! Just tryto hop that Beta over a few (one)

Might also be a good lesson that they don't need all the oil they are putting intothem now! Have stated many times that I can easily run at 100:1

One of our local SR Expert riders has one and states he likes it over his 4RT ? I have not had a go as yet, yet want one!

I really do like these things, yet due to procrastination, do not have one, primarily because I(duh)want one in BLUE!!! Friggin Vince does most everything black and at best I would have to call him to pull one off a batch just to get one plain so I could have it blue anodized. I have put this off forever, now, !!! I just need to do it! Big thing here I think, If you do kick off a chain in a section, breakage or not, it is likely possible to wad up and take out a slave cyl at best, worst case, youre gonna wipe out that and break the bolt fitments on the case anyway. Big thing here is This Should Not allow the chain to wad up, which is a good thing, and possibly well worth the investment if it were to occur. Having seen extreme cases of this type damage on many bikes over the years, I giv it a as cheap insurance. Add, no you do not have to worry about the clutch when removing screws, unless you are a bit git and pump the lever with the bolts loose.

Call you Eltin John!

C'mon mate. Takes 5 min... maybe/ Remove three screws from cover. Then, if shifter is not knackered, you choudl likely be able to depress lever down fully as putting into first gear. With a bit of wiggling you should be able to sqeeze cover out and off. Firstly, the flywheel retaining nut should not be loose or hand tight. If it is, one can bet the keywak has sheared, as this nut is supposed to be at 73 lb/ft as I recall. If it is totally loose, you might pull off even without a puller(same way as the cover).

O good then, having fun! Clutch is golden parachute ! It really does help if you got some mates to explain tecniques a bit, or find a school, got to make a few brain adjustments!!!

Seems to me there is a fair amount of science behind all this, rather complex, but long story short, getting things to seat in properly can be the best solution and in the "Run'm hard" theory these things happen. "Hard" running in itself is more an indication of high engine loads, not RPM. So in the case of a trials bike as example, I might opt for some trails and wood where I was able to put on a good load in gear 4 or 5 on a dirt road at high throttle loads, varying it through the rpm range, then tuck into the wood trails and get on it a bit. Varing throttle and high loads pulling the gears. If anything, I do not use more oil than normal on a 2T, as this defeats the principals of high load and friction doing the job. Just let it run in under loads without revving the p*** out it! All most happens in the first tank o'fuel!

I think I might have a flask of whiskey in the backpack. Crap runs fine in a bike. If you mix in castor oil, will give a good cleaning out as well!

Clutch basket indicates Gasser motor, simple brake pedal, not sure the have a M/C for it yet. Cross between Gasser, Beta it seems

Think I would ck the flywheel first. Clutches always seem to drag when the engine is not running(pushing the bike), so noot too unusual.

Deja vu!

This is an interisting question? Obvious answer being a LARGER capacity(and size) battery will last longer. When you change voltage, you gotta change other things such as the coil to a proper rating to accept the higher voltage input. With current battery technology, the question presents itself the possibility of using something like a rechargable Li ion battery pack as compared to a lead/acid cell. One can build packs of just about any size/ voltage combo. Standard shargers as used in motorized hand tools/model aircraft/ cars and such are readily available and the batteries really last a long time with lots of power and spares are leightweight also. Might be worth consulting a specialist about!

Good to see you on here mate. I am glad to see you posting up info and help for others. It is sometimes difficult to diagnose things long distance, but all input is appreciated, even if one can never be correct at all times! Keep it up man, as it seems there are a good lot of bright lads on here trying to pitch in. I for one would be interisted to see your views on the standard PHBL jetting for UK, and with what fuel, as this seems to vary a bit as compared to US pumpgas! Feel free to share comments on VHST, if you like? Cheers, MC

Funny, as I just seen this thread and was about to suggest you at least try one. Good price and seems decent bang for buck!

Good to have you, matey! You gotta get into them forume before they tell them secrets! Have some fun with it!

01-05 should interchange, latter available in silver with holes if you like. Ck the Splatshop website for info. '05 was a good looker chrome silver rattle can to toutch up rusty spots, re toutch as neccessary.

I think so when used in ally. Best to stick with grease in engine bolts, although the ali based anti sieze in a mix probably fine. The problems come in the presence of electrolites(water).

Great job Cody!

Andy and Bigfook!

May well indeed if it supports the plug. This pic is an example of some the designs I was referring to. Just how you gonna gap that thing properly for a bike?

Jeez man, you got any UFO's flying around your house? Too much wierd stuff going on. Firstly, high idle-- I think it likely the cable was slightly out of position where it goes into the adjuster at top of carb and under boot where you cannot see it. Proximity of wiggling anything can correct this, or just vibration. Lesson here, be sure you audibly hear slide "hit home" before starting(after messing with stuff). Second-- Float arm should be parallel with carb body when disassembled and inverted. There is a measure to this, 19.5mm or so as i recall, but PARALLEL is the base. .5mm dont change much here. With the change in running after what we may call a "heat soak" here if the bike transferring more heat into the stator assy. after some run time, I am thinking that direction for ignition problem, yet it seems there is no absolute pattern to these things. You can try ohming these things out, but the spect don't tell everything and we have no way to functionally test them in the field other than swapping compenents, CDI being cheapest and easiest, then proceed to other.... gotta love electronics! Chris has some specs on the Splatshop UK website, so does Steve at UK Motoplat. I am sure Ryan will understand the situ and help you as much as possible.

So you have the 00-05 forks, 330ml per leg is the number from dry. Figured they would settle after stroking air out. Easier to do before stuffing springs back in. The air caps will provide a bit of adjustability. Providing the sealing o-rings are good(most not) you can put full weight onto front , crack them and re secure, which provides a slight vacume in the forks at running height. Drops the front and improves geometry for tight knarley sections. I always had to put slightly larger thickness american o-rings on the caps to get them to seal well. The air caps, just sit on the bike and crack them to bleed off any pressure build then re seat them normally.

Look ahead and keep moving, probably second gear. Don't hug the bike, wide feet, low stance and let the bike move under you. Steer with the feet! Practice!

Waht are you on about when you say "spinning", lad? You mean hopping the front or rear wheel to position the bike? This was recently covered in a good video of Ray Peters at TTC. Follow the thread about a dozen down the list called "The Hoppy Thing"