copemech

You see, same intent, different approach, specially for the guys that want and need the BIG third gear!(Steve is an ex-pro) The pure velocity of that bike, with that gearing, in 3rd at WOT is scarey! That is why I just lug the 2.9 around in 2nd with stock gear, it seldome hits the uncontrollable state needed to pop up the 5-6 footers! It is not the going up that scares me, just the coming down if I don't make it!

Gee Chris, you know what happens once you go black! As Ishy stated, the 44 tooth off the 125 bikes may be a good option! I have done this on a 2.9 as well. Dropping the front one tooth is a bit too much it seems, not unlike the Honda though, most I know changed to a 43 or 44 on the rear for comfort. The Sherco has a better clutch is seems. A simple change to the SHORTIE clutch lever can make a difference as it has a longer pivot arm than the medium length stockers! Just a thought! I can assure you it IS a 320!

Just hitch a ride with Biff, put all the bike parts in the back of the Volvo or whatever it is and he will probably make you drive 15 hours and sleep on the ground! Everything is normal!

Based totally on your report, which i cannot see everything, I would stick with the original plan, let the RYP guys look at the bore and proceed as neccessary. Looks like a good fixer on the break though, and Al has already offered his services. He is as cheap as it gets I would think. Weather or not to go with a new ring or hone it and fit a B piston is TBD i would think! If the studs have plenty of metal left, clean them up, and leave them alone, coat with corrosive prentative grease on asembly! There are many different ways to skin that cat! M2C

Zipper, You guys need to pack up and make the Octobertest in OK, I think it is the 20-21'st, should be getting thoroughly crappy weather up there by then. With any luck, there should be some new bikes there to play on! Never know what Pro's are going to show up for the purse!

Atom, interisting input on the new one! I have not seen one as yet, sure was interisted in a smoothie, we shall see! The Beta is nice, and they are very proud of them! It has always boggled the mind why more dont choose a nice docile 250 in most all cases, yet complain about the bigger bores having too much power!

This has been a fun thread, but for those that may not understand it totally, it is all just in good fun ! Les (who rarely checks what he started) is a good sport, as well as his fat minder! All I know is that RYP has indeed withdrawn the Xispa logo from their website, so I know ov no importer at this time, but nobody tells me anything anyway! And even though I may have a Sherco tattoo on the bum, all the US importers are top fellows, most of which even myself as a small time sportsman rider have come to know on a first name basis over time and involvement in the sport. As well as the fact that there really are not any "bad bikes" they all just have their own traits! It Is a funny world of trials, but Xispa will have a tough go I think! On the other hand, it does put pressure on other manufacturers to up their game!

At least we are keeping the random ramblings all on one thread!

Good deal, keep us posted!

I'll send you one, but the post will exceed the 2 quid for the part with the new postal regs. PM me as I have 5 of them for r&d and feedback. Purely nonprofit!

My first thought would be B&J racing or you can call RYP and ask if Ryan knows someone local that can do it! Or if there have been problems in performing that specific repair! 800-607-8742 Maybe Al B. can chime in ? Or even do it for you as he has the stuff!

Steve, sounds like a good outing, trials is trials! On the Sat. week before last, we did this Gate Trial thing in Ok! Total different concept, lots of fun! Unlike the typical gate trial, where one dab is a bust, you start out with 30 points, each dab is -10(3 max), and each gate cleared(of different points and difficulty) adds to your points, so it is a + and - situation. I think you even get to keep your accumulated points up to a normal fiver, which is then a bust. I had no 5's so not sure. Doing a tricky line to add points to add a 5 pointer, which just cost you a 10point dab to get to it, well you get the idea. Everyone loved it! But the trialsmaster, who went fromsection to section for three loops as observer! Took us a long time to get round, with a lunch break after the second loop, but no time limits and no pressure made a good day of it! We plan on doing it again. This concept was originally proposed by Tommi Ahvala, it works!

Good'un Biff!

Sorry guys, but as you are not LOCAL, I have no way of monitoring the wear and tear on the Chinese goods, yourself, or the minder to see which one lasts the longest!!!

I am not sure where you are located, but I would think a proper weld repair and re tapping of the thread would fix it. It is a tricky repair, as the weld process can induce distortion in the Nicasil coated bore of the cylinder. I have not done it! But there are specialists about ! A repair should be at least half the cost of a new one, which is probably around $500 US i would estimate. However if the job has done in the bore, requireing a re-chrome, the cost would be near a new one! Worth a repair attempt though!

Steve, I missed the response on the chat if there was one before Ish and K took over, how did the US trip go?

Even after polishing , you can still see the chitting marks where the little rollers on the standard bearing "dig in" to the bushing or "spacer" as it is called out in the parts book. This one is certainly reusable, it is relatively new, but I have seen a few that were much worse. The little rollers in the bearing itself simply do not have sufficient load bearing surface area to do the job without distorting the opposing surface.

The Boyesens do have a smoothing effect on the mid range Hit!

It's the D-40 that was chatted bout on the photography thread! Had not really noticed till fondling it the other day, even the Nikon is made in Thiland now! The japs cannot afford to produce their own without outsourcing! Oh well, it works!

Try ebay!

Well, a bit of riding today with the new bronze bearing installed. All I can say a this point is that it seems to work REALLY well! If anything it may be TOO sensitive, as there is no longer lost motion in the wobbly pedal! Might take some getting used to after a number of years of the wobbler! May give it a bit more free play, yet there seems to be no more friction in the action than in the litle rollers. You could lock it down with one finger, just like the front!

Slapshot, thankfully she never reads this stuff! Atom, there is a US co. named Haier or something that do those guards. I suppose like anything else they have their pros and cons. May have saved me a finger or two! Jon, David is a HOOT! "Watch This!" he says! I already sent him those pics, now you can tell him he is internationally famous! We will have the umbrella girls for him next! As this was the first real outing with the Nikon, I still like it! All these are just medium res pics on full auto mode, some in tricky shaded conditions. Not bad! I am hoping for some good Central Regional pics this year! Yea, we got ROCKS in Oklahoma! Cannot officially comment at this point, but there will be a BIG trial there next year it seems!

A small hole in the choke lever with a ty-wrap through it may help in retracting the choke lever as it can be difficult to reach withthe fingers. Twisting the carb in the mounts prior to tightening the clamps should give just enough clearance for the choke lever to operate.

Just kidding John! I do have a few of the brake pedals if you need one! Found them on the loop! Next to the footpegs!

Spousal unit still prefers the hard way round!