copemech

Plug was probably perset to that spec as the platinums are. The resistor adds another electrical obsticle to an already weak(at low revs) output system and that is why i have some reservations running that gap on it. If you have to go back to the .6mm gap to run reliably, you have lost some benifit of the application to begin with. Installed the bronze bearing for the rear pedal and works perfectly! Very tight, smooth pedal actuation now. Will try to get more ride time on it tomorrow!

Well, since the cat is out of the bag, 3 bikes of the initial shipment will be allocated to local experts for testing and evaluation. The package includes everything needed for competition at NO cost! All you have to do is show up and ride! Wheels, brakes, tires, batteries, levers, grips, mudguards, bearings, clutches, dildo, fuel, travel costs, food, beverage, fanny pack, hats, baseball shirts, black boots(military), knee pads, gloves, Wranglers and helmet! If you don't like the bikes, you or you fat minder can go screw yourself! He He He! Any takers for a full factory ride!

Why do you say it is a "GasGas"? Looks like a Xispa! This post has been up since 6:43, if it were a GasGas the wheels would have fell off by now!

Good choice!

I think those little bikes came out of Spain as well, but not sure how much was made elsewhere. Really neat little bikes for the kids too! With Ryan being peed over the big ones, not sure about the parts situation! Maybe Rising Sun Imports will pick them up! Or maybe there could be a new importer, in MO?

Excuse me Biff, but I cannot resist this one. Did you put oil back in when finished? On another note, if there is no bearing and the parts welded together to begin with, then the shaft probably annealed(lost surface hardness) due to the heat. That is why it did it again. It is a funny thing that happens with metals running at high speeds.(with low lubrication) And stop running that recycled ATF! Get new parts!

I have been a bit standoffish on the irridium plug as it is a resistor type, and stuck with the platinum. Did you run the preset gap at .027-.028?(0.7mm) Should give a bit fresher response off the bottom as well, barely detectable though. The prime benefit is the fact the electrodes are more open and exposed for better ignition and such. How the heck do you eat up that many rear brake pads? I have never replaced ANY! Of course I don't really use it much either. Current project on the list is the bronze oilite bearing to replace that little s-i-t-y roller thing on the rear pedal that makes it loose and corrodes badly. Will update on this later.

I suppose! With proper lube upon assembly, nothing will leak! It IS a very crytical process and you must be (or get) good at it! The rare excption is the tire with a casting defect that will leak at the bead area. A small dab of the selicone RTV in that area only will cure it. Most of the time, they have simply not beaded up proper due to lack of lube. I have seen many that were never properly seated from the get go! Fronts as well, they wobble a lot!

DF, I think little bro is on the right track! That is some good Texas music for sure! Them poor sots up north just have no idea bout these Texas girls! Poor fellows!

I can send you a Goat! You'll never have to mow or trim the bushes again! Cheers Charlie!

Would have been nice if you had observed that rim band closely as it came off! It is ALL about how it sets in the recessed groove, you see, and the slightest disruption can screw you, even off new! If you used the hardening type selicone RTV, you will be screwed if it is ever touched ! You will have a massive job with cleaning and starting over!

I should have said, yea, we could not print the pics untill RLracer showed up with the used headlamp off the Beta! We sent a Raga Rep on the boat, but the only thing that survived was the Marzocci forks and a pile of magnesium oxide! I told them to put the red rims on!

Now THATS funny! Don't think I have not thought about it! Them sumbiches even copied my swingarm guards and Krylon paint job!

You are kidding, ritht? Just get one of them Jay Lael special twinshock frames to drop her in! The ultimate twinshock! She may rattle a bit, but nobody will notice!

Find a friend with air tool to zip it out!

Baldi, I thinks he is funning bout us old farts again. My old friend Arthor Itis likes the quick throttle best, with a bit slower bike! He does not have to move as much to do a big section with big throttle! Always a trade off! He still gets a mental block against grabbing the double big handful and revving to the moon before you go, like the pros! I think my best throttle was the ali tube whick I did a bit of modding to. Starts off like the slow throttle, but progressively increases to standard quick design. Seemed to work well, I need to do another!

Took some photos today under the local bridge where the pidgeons hang out. It is a nice random pattern graphic that shares many of the subtile shades of the bike such as black, white and grey. When the transfers are done they will be hot s***!

Do you guys see that Zuroski fellow much? I hear he got a big Head now , doing interviews with the elite and getting paid big bucks! Thinks he is Geraldo Rivera!

Gawd Thistle, he said he put his Had Out! Its fine! Really nice needle work! No wonder its free over there! R2W must surely travel to Wales for the sex change operation now!

Melts in your mouth, not on your Ar--!

Your Pref! As far as refinishing the fork sliders goes, I have used a rattlecan automotive "silver charcoal" color with good results after applying matching clearcoat. For a professional job you must completely disassemble, chemical strip and polish scratches, then use professional automotive etching primer, proper color basecoat and urethane clearcoat. Best left to an auto paint pro who has the stuff! Even then, you must be sure critical areas are protected!

Not sure how the ones like Addict's are set from the factory, but I always did run that lower tube back up and over the intake then down so the fuel that sloshes out the overflow does not necessarily get out, yet will accmulate in the tube and just run back in. Cant do that with the bowl vent tubes(sides) as these must breathe freely. However you can run them up an back down similar to the Beta Mikuni fix and T them together, principal is the same. This was a problem with mine early on as due to the proximity to the exhaust, the tube would pinch off, neccessitating drilling out the bowl vent casting on the left side of the unit to insure good atmospheric equalization of the bowl so fuel can flow properly "uphill" as it is drawn through the jets by venturi effect only. It is all pressure differential that makes them work. Hopefully all this makes sense. You do not Have to have tubes on the bowl vents AT ALL, yet I have tended to prefer short tubes pointed downward just to prevent dirt and water entry. No fuel may accumulate in them as these things have to BREATHE, and otherwise tend to accmulate dirt and dust directly on the carb body itself which can easily be sucked or blown in, specially when cleaning the bike, leading to even more running problems once the water and dirt entry has occured. The Dellorto has an advantage on this with the 90 degree outlets. Bottom line, I am lazy, and do not want to have to tear down my carb every couple rides to clean them due to crap entering through the vents, and long tubes trap fuel, With Exception of the overflow tube on the "K" in which it is intended! Hope that helps,

John covered it well, it seems if you reduce timing beyond about 6mm on the plate it makes little difference yet you may have other adverse running problems.

Heath had a laundry bill after laughing too much!

Cheap diesel, German girls and motorhome! Sounds like a nice relaxing weekend Nige!