That’s our next port of call to join Rhondda club, was speaking to Gareth from t tyres and he mentioned the Rhondda club, went up week before last to watch a trial that was being held there, we popped up yesterday for a couple of hours on our trials have a look about etc. I’m booking off in work to go to the Merthyr trials to have a nose. Thanks for replying m8
That’ll be the really cold trial - just thawed out.
look up trials training wales - acu affiliated club that organise training in South Wales for adults and kids
Neath Trial this Sunday near Aberdulais and Welsh Champ in Merthy the week after. Go along and watch and chat to officails and riders. You soon find a gang to join in with.
It will be the throttle position sensor in the throttle body. basically as they get worn the throttle sensor will go past 100% and 101% doesn't compute in the ECU so it causes the fault you described.
Easy solution is to remove the plastic cover off the side of the throttle body and put a very thin shim under the wide open throttle stop, bringing it back to with in the 0 - 100% limits...much cheaper than buying a new throttle body.
I've had this on one of my well used 4rt's and have come across it a few times.
Hope it helps,
Matt.
yep - done the same. Normal fault with that is only on flat out throttle (big climb etc). If you ride on normal throttle does it run ok or is bottom end lumpy.
As you have tried an alternative Throttle body I would be tempted to try swap tank/fuel pump assy. As maybe failing under load. Does it get worse as the bike get warmer?
Earth wire at the bottom of the coil can also corrode =- try a fresh extra earth wire from coil to engine bolt.
This isn't an appropriate time for making jokes.. this is VERY serious ...especially for people who clean their bikes .........The only water my bike usually sees is rain water and streams I wouldn't waste my time ...not in the UK anyway, by the time you arrive at the 1st section 1st lap it looks like you never cleaned it.....I clean/oil the air filter every 2 to 3 outings and that's it and I don't have any of the problems that everyone else seems to have when they are meticulously cleaning[twiddling about] and maintaining their machines every 5 minutes......perhaps its because I keep it in a warm dry place that I do not get the problems. along with not spraying water near all the seals of the bike on a regular basis.
I do all the cleaning and oiling. Clean air filter every ride, brakes out and cleaned every ride. Bikes never an issue and get good value on resale. I also service my van and cars and wash my riding gear and I also wash every day.
No issues through negligence is just good luck in my book not a methodology , If your bike is dirty when you work on it all that muck is getting in the threads and workings etc
When I swapped to the 300rr Mont I changed a load of wheel / Tyre combinations and weighed them before and after - sad I know. I was going to post results on TC but seem to recall the inaccuracy of the measuring method - (bathroom scales - the better half was out) and the minimal difference I recall meant the findings were less exciting than I had thought at the start.
basic conclusion was that the X11s are heavier tha X lights.
The Wheel on a std 260 Mont are heavier than the ones on a 2008 250 and also the 300rr.
Seem to recall there was about 1/2 to 1 kg between the worse combination and the best - with the weather looking a bit ify I may get chance to post the results.
But if you are comparing Mitas with Dunlop with X11 then I maybe the slight weight difference isn't your greatest concern - if you want the best and lightest as said above -Michelin X light.
Impressive....I usually end up crashing that heavily just riding along at 5 mph in a flat field after running over a piece of stone the size of a bar of soap.
I was there and watched that for real - looked nasty at the time .
as a btc clerk of course it’s a fine line between taking marks and hurting the top boys.
The move to no stop and no minders has reduced the severity of section I have to put on. Spectators may think it’s not as exciting but has certainly helped me sleep at night.
need to bring back it’s a knockout elastic rope and fairy liguid on plastic sheets .
lets see bou and raga hop there way out of that while sliding backwards with an elastic band tied to their waste and some northern commentator laughing more than they can speak .
You only use the cable ties to get the tyre on and off. A beader for forming the seal, although I usually use the ratchet strap method someone mentioned before.
Have used a variety of the style of gloves indicated above and are great for messing about or I find good when marking out as the extra padding / grip helps when sticking flags in but for out and out trials riding find them all a bit thick or as mentioned too grippy. I have used some of the cheaper proper trials gloves to good effect and about 1/2 the price of the branded latest ones. I treat gloves and tyres the sane - why spend thousands on a bike and scrimp on the things that connect you to the controls or the bike to the ground . Even if you spent £30 on gloves and only lasted a year it’s just over 50 p a weekend !
So I test rode the bike tonight and it runs like new. I believe it must have drawn some water in from the same ail filter that was soaked. Anyone have any idea what this filter is? It is about the size of a 2p, running down a short pipe onto the side of the carb. Also should I clean this and use air filter oil on it or keep it dry?
I always used to clean this on mine and oil as per any other filter. Seem to recall the dellorto carb on these earlier monts was different to others on the idle adjustment - adjust air not fuel or vice versa and would freeze in the cold .
The 2000 on 315s had a updated carb I seem to recall
Would suggest taking throttle body off and checking all clean. Likewise all electrical connections -split and spray with wd etc .Kill button - lead etc Check fuel tank and injector.
The 4rt is quiet durable and can cope with deep water, rain, and being jet washed etc
The Mont is also quite clever and may not spark if something isn't correct elsewhere - water in air sensor etc.
i would chose a beta 200 over a 260 4t for someone with dodgy knees.
The 2 bikes have kick start on opposite side which maybe a factor . The mont dues need a certain type of kick which can be difficult for people with fishy knees .
maintainece wise the mont is no more complex and very well made .
efi very efficient if a more trail based bike is wanted
Probably going to have this post raised against me by the media in 8 yrs time but I must be old as it’s definitely funny and also very sad at the same time ?
Please report back but be sure to let the trainer know what you want from the day. But I would say definately in trials dont try to run before you can walk
Very easy to have a house built on sand - no point being able to do splats if you can’t do a flat muddy turn without dabbing. Try and understand your flaws before going so you can have an idea what you want to get out. I had been riding for years at a reasonable ability but when we set up project 2000 training in west South Wales my riding improved by understanding body weight on footrests, increased use of your knees, correct stance etc
...especially for people who clean their bikes .........The only water my bike usually sees is rain water and streams I wouldn't waste my time ...not in the UK anyway, by the time you arrive at the 1st section 1st lap it looks like you never cleaned it.....I clean/oil the air filter every 2 to 3 outings and that's it and I don't have any of the problems that everyone else seems to have when they are meticulously cleaning[twiddling about] and maintaining their machines every 5 minutes......perhaps its because I keep it in a warm dry place that I do not get the problems. along with not spraying water near all the seals of the bike on a regular basis.
4rt running rough
in Montesa
Posted
Would just do tank first - then try injector but never heard of one .