check chain tensions and also the rear cush drive pins in the rear hub -they can become worn and and give play - also swing arm bearings if worn can give play .
C'mon Dan, I think the rabbit's out of the hat, you do R&D for Beta !!!!!!!!
Guy
Shows all the factory bosses and top tech guys are fans of Trials Central and read of all the developments going on in sheds and garages and then stick them on the following years bikes
The Mont clutch is not I believe known for being heavy - but it does take a little bit of getting used to action wise -I think as much the torque of the engine etc. I find setting very steady revs and keeping it constant and then use the clutch -not possibly the 2 stroke blipping throttle and using clutch together - if that makes sense.
As you say the bike is new to you then would be worth having a few more hours on it before whipping out the spanners but if still not to your liking then tweaking the spring would be an option - either take a couple out as you suggest or possible grind shorter or look to put a spacer in to make free length longer but check clearances etc.
On the early 2005 bikes the master cyl swap for a 315 was the way to go - different diameters of piston I believe - this has not been necessary since the 2006 bikes and even the switch to the Braktec ones has not been detrimental but you may gain by a different ratio that would ease the pressure.
As with all mods there are drawbacks - less spring pressure can induce slip - if riding easy /sensible stuff not an issue but if doing big stuiff /big climbs/ road or moor work then maybe an issue in 5th gear .
Likewise altering ration of master cyl bore to salve cyl bore ratio may give excess travel.
Bike prep - read some of the SSDT bike prep articles written by John Lampkin and John Shirt - especially keeping mud out of rads and air box etc.
The monts are sturdy beasts so a good general fettle - check fluids, new brake pads, spokes, linkages etc - a larger bash plate f not already fitted or the SSDT type protectors etc.
I found last time that the enduro / motorcross type donuts on the grips helped reduce blisters .
Would suggest getting the bike sorted a week or 2 in advance then ride it to make sure everything bedded in and tight -then just a good once over the week before.
If you can find a bit of land with stream sections and a biggish lap with moor work or similar then just practice ridding it for several hours without stopping - when you can do that for a few hours and still feel ok youl'll be ok to the first petrol stop ..
I do know for a certain rider that cleaned the inside of the airbox and left the paper towel in - bike ran fine on tick over but stopped abruptly when the throttle was opened sufficient to suck the said towel into the inlet tract - I've heard of cleaning your carb but thats
I might be off the mark here but I remember a TMX article about Martin Lampkin who was going for an SSDT win and had a rear puncture. Of course then the rears had tube's.
The news story said that Lampkin had the wheel off and back on with a new tube in 10 minutes flat, **** it usually took me at least 3/4's of an hour in my garage !
I might be off the mark here but I remember a TMX article, from years ago, about Martin Lampkin who was going for an SSDT win and had a rear puncture. Of course then the rears had tubes.
The news story said that Lampkin had the wheel off and back on with a new tube in 10 minutes flat, ffs, **** it usually took me at least 3/4's of an hour in my garage !
It's not an answer to the op's question but even a tubeless tyre will take a tube ............ when on the moor !!!!
Priobably changed wheel bearings too - he did that in Allan jefferies trial many years ago !!
The old ssdt 15 mins in a morning fettling time made you focus when av tyre change was due - non of this 30 mins and a spare wheel nonsense ???
I remember reading a post where there was a little play in the PTB and when shutting off the throttle it would go past 0 and stall out, a small drop of super glue under the stop was used to diagnose the issue.
I don’t remember 100% what the final fix was , but there was some talk about a washer as a shim and a few other options talked about.
not sure if that will help but good luck figuring the true root cause out.
Had that on full throttle but not at zero throttle - I think there maybe a screw for zero position ??
Hi there just wondered if anyone has experienced a problem like I’m having.
my 15 repsol starts fine and runs away fine, but after a bit it starts dropping the engine speed on shutting off the throttle and it goes below idle speed and stalls. It will immediately start again and idle away fine, but drive the bike again and it will drop the idle speed and stall.
So it’s happy idling from start up, but drops off from shuttling the throttle off. Seems to be once it’s warm. While running it takes full throttle and seems fine, but once shutting off it will stall.
I have cleaned the throttle body main venturi butterfly passage and the air passage that is in use when idling. There had been an alteration done to the bike prior to me buying it and the head breather oil catch tank had been moved to under the seat and wasn’t doing it’s job and oil was getting into the airbox then going through the throttle body. I have put a small breather filter up under the headstock.
Its my first montesa 4rt so not really that well read on the injection setup.
I’m sure any Honda dealer will sort you out. If you have a part number they won’t care what bike it’s on . The beauty of owning a major manufacture made bike.
As an acu coach I do a first aid course every few years to get my licence. As a national clerk of course for a British champ we ensure we have first aid cover . As a manager in a manufacturing company we make sure we have first aiders but in reality all any body needs to do is stop anybody getting any worse until an ambulance can get to them - so cpr/ recovery position/ clear airways / diabetic shock / stop a major bleed etc are all you need to know. And make sure the officials and riders know where you are if they need to call 999 - bobs farm doesn’t help much - makes sure you have map coordinates and know if an ambulance / air ambulance can get to you. Sprains , strains even broken digits pack them off to local a&e which you have displayed at the start area. Triangular bandages and slings are for scouts in reality .
i think a defib at £700 odd is worth owning by every centre if not club - with ever increasing average age this is going to be the best life saver as us old git push our bikes out for a 3. The youngster with a big crash will probably jump back on and blame the observer
Evidently we invented football but will see later where that gets us too ???
I think last night was a bit Honda HRC and also a bit CZ with some Oset, bantam, tiger cub and MZ thrown in and a Vertigo just after the restart for extra time (couldn't get started )
No, CZ had two separate ignitions that fired at different times, i.e. independently. Yes, the honda has the ability to vary the timing between the two sparks, but hardly cutting edge when as i said CZ were doing this in the 60s
Think that's a bit like saying you had tv in the 60s so a modern voice activated, internet linked LED wide screen TV isn't cutting edge -just my take on it
Come on, twin spark is as old as the hills!!!! CZ were doing that in the 60s
Twin spark maybe but firing them independently and changing the relationship of the timing to alter engine performance to make to aggressive or soft dependent on throttle demand is a bit more than CZ did I think
???
300Rr Road Insurance
in Montesa
Posted
It that time of year again
Anybody found a standard road policy for the Honda 300RR
Still wasn't on the insurance companies list when I checked recently
Cheers