garethr

Ouch! Hope you are now fully recovered Callum and that it hasnt put you off... Something to tell the grandkids! I've looked at some of the photos of this event, trying to guage if my lad could ride the easier route. As far as I can see, there are 3 routes? The red/blue route, yellow and white (markers have a spot on them). Can you give more info about what the two days comprise of as I would love to bring my son over in August. Is there somewhere to camp/caravan?

Thanks copemech! When I was younger I used to leave everything up to my dad to sort or wait until something broke! Now I'm learning to really get in there!!! I suppose it's a bit like cooking... you can either see it as a chore or really enjoy it! I will hopefully have a go at it tomorrow... Is there anything I need to look out for or is it fairly straight forward? I can remember my old Beta TR34 had a grease nipple on the swingarm linkage... what was wrong with that then!?

Just had to post a link to this vid...

Great advice muppet! Not at all muppet like in fact!! Many thanks

I'm very much drawn to this bike from Zoo!... ZOO! Python '09 Apparently it's quite robust at the expense of a bit of weight over a Monty Kamel. This doesnt bother me too much though as I would prefer a bike to last a bit longer and I'm totally new to cycle trials so the thing will probably feel as light as a feather to me anyway! Does anyone have any comments good or bad on any of the components or the frame listed?

Cheers for the info (sorry dont know your name)! I've no doubt that Monty are up there if not THE best at making trials bikes. It would appear that the top bikes are very light and serve their purpose well for the best riders in the world. I'm ready to sacrifice a bit of weight over strength. Which are the toughest, most roubust Monty bikes currently on the market would you say?

It's a date Tom! I take it we must enter before the day and that it is ok for anyone to have a go as long as they fall within the correct age and bike limitations set out by the ACU. Is there anything else we should do or look out for before the event over a normal club trial or is it essentially the same? I read somewhere (possibly ACU handbook) that each rider can have one assistant and riders set off at 1 min intervals. Does the assistant (me in this case) get to take a bike or will I need to get my joggers on to keep up!!?

I'm 5'10, 13st 31yrs young... ridden trials bikes (injin veriety) since I was 7, but never owned a trials cycle. I am attracted more towards the 20" and I'm not looking to get too serious but would like a good quality robust bike. $1 million question: Which bike would you recommend for me!?? Many Thanks

I have been looking at a Monty Kamel 221, but am very put off by all the talk of the frames cracking / snapping / breaking and any other nasty words ending in "ing"!!! I thought that paying lots of money for a mod would result in a quality bomb proof bike... but it would appear that the more you pay... the lighter the bike. This however can result in a less robust bike! These bikes cost well over a grand and are ok for pros who get another bike if they break the one they are on! Having said that (dont know if it's true) but I heared that Monty offer a 2 yr warranty on their frames??? Also, experienced riders do launch themselves off big drop offs and make big gaps BUT ride more smoothly and precicely than a beginner. ... there's more to this than I first thought!!!

I chuckled to myself when you stated that I was lucky that you didnt "vape" my post! It was almost ironic! I just think that "young 'uns" should be accommodated and accepted in their own style to say what they want how they want as long there's no abuse, especially if they are trying to be helpful!? These young lads and lasses are the future of our sport so I dont think it is a good idea to try and silence them because they dont talk or type how we would prefer them to. We all appreciate what you have created here, the rules and the associated costs (me more than many as a web designer). The main strength of the english language is its ability to evolve (and that's coming from a taff!!) It is a very interesting topic...

I think you are right Mike... I am thinking of takin my lad to the South Shropshire round (Rd 2) as it's not too far from us in Mid Wales whereas the Devon round is a long trek to discover that it's all a bit too tough for him. I'm sorry Andy, I would reply to your comments but fear that you might ban me and my posts so I'll shut up!

I dont know how old Callum is... but I think you are being a bit harsh Andy. The post by Callum was a genuine reply and it looks like the_e1_bandit was just kidding with his dig about the post being unreadable? I personally cant stand proper text talk but the odd forum abreviation isnt all that bad. You'll get nothing else from the younger generation these days and you wont change them, so just ban them all and we'll end up with only older riders on this forum and no youth slant... Correct me if I'm wrong... or lets just get on with the post at hand?

I am also interested in any comments you guys have on this. My lad is 7 and has done a few D class conducted club trials. Pretty easy stuff really, but he is ok with most sections on the white route too (club level). I know difficulty levels vary a bit from club to club, but I've never noticed much difference between say a yellow route in one club and a yellow route in another. Am I right in thinking that D class nationals are roughly equivalent to White/Yellow route club sections and C class Nationals are equivalent to Yellow/Blue (Inter) club sections? Also... do the D class small wheel do the same route as the D class medium wheel riders? C'mon Dads (& Mums!) and youth riders... give us ur thoughts!!! :-)

This is the new link!

Shows how much I know!!!

I happened to spot the little overflow hose on the floor next to one of my favourite rock steps! I've clicked it back into place, but wasnt sure where the overflow pipe should be routed (or if it really matters)? It doesnt seem to be a very good design as it fell of by itself leaving a hole in the top of the filler cap! Not sure how long it had fallen off for, but no coolant seems to have been lost.

Ok... cheers copemech! The forks appear to have a groove around the top, which is about 7mm higher than the top of the yoke. Should this groove be flush with the top of the yoke or is it just to show the max setting?? I probably need to strip down the rear linkages and regrease as they have not been done yet. I've had the bike from new but havent ridden it all that much (Still on original tyres & pads etc). I weigh 13st (~185lbs) and was wandering if I should just wind the spring down a little as it feels a little bit soft. I havent looked yet, but is there a damping adjuster on the rear shocker too? If so... what do you recommend? Lastly... (for now!!!) when standing next to the bike and lifting the rear end to take up the sag in the suspension, it feels like there is a bit of play in one or more of the linkages when I get right to the top - or is this normal? Would it be an idea to replace any of the bolts or linkages or would regreasing suffice? I have some white putoline grease... is that ok to use? To think I've been riding for years... I sound like a complete novice in the maintenance dept!!! Oh well, I'm learning! Thanks!

Hi, Just changed the fork oil on my '07 250 Sherco and was wandering what settings you guys use for the forks? According to the Sherco 2009 manual (http://www.sherco.com/service/2009manual_ST-2T.pdf) it recommends damping screw out all the way then in two clicks. I previously had the screw almost all the way in. The preload screw should be flush with the top of fork. Any comments?

U sure ur not flooding it with the throttle wide open from the word go? I would go for closed throttle for a couple of kicks then try full throttle! Next try bump starting in 3rd. If this works then leave it running for a while... but dont ignore the reason why it wouldnt start in the 1st place, otherwise you will turn up at a trial with no bike to ride one day!

STOP THE CLOCK! I've just managed to add the thicker (2mm) clutch plate in place of one of the thinner (1.5mm) plates. Thanks to a few pointers and an exploded diagram of the clutch assembly from Kev & Luke at GasGas technical. Wasnt too tricky really in the end. The bike is much improved and the clutch engages earlier and smother. It's biting a bit and the bike wants to creep forward when it's on tickover which isnt a big problem. I'll try and slow down tickover to see if I can get the balance right. I've also added a Talon 60T rear sprocket and the bike really has been transformed. These mods are musts!

Thanks Spinner... I've taken the kickstart & casing off, but cant see how to get at the clutch plates! Sorry for being thick, but I havent done anything like this before. How do I swap over one of the clutch plates for the new one please??

So instead of 2 x 1.5mm plates and 1 x 2mm plate, you have 2 x 2mm plates and 1 x 1.5mm? Would 3 x 2mm plates work or is this too much?! Was the diference with this mod quite noticable?? Are there any negatives to this mod? The little gasser seems to need quite a lot of revs before it bites, and then it takes off! I'm looking to increase the rear sprocket to 60T and hopefully change the clutch plates as mentioned here. Are there any special tools required? Cheers!

Hi Guys! I'm looking to change the rear sprocket for a 60 tooth talon from the 52 tooth original sprocket. I take it the chain wont fit once this has been replaced? If so, which chain have you used instead? Those that have made the changes to the clutch and airbox... can you give us a bit more info as to exactly what's involved? It's such a neat little bike... I cant wait to get it running a bit sweeter and more managable for my 7 yr old! Many thanks