kingscorpion

SAE 10W30, 900 cc. I think that's 31,5 gb fl. oz.

1.- You're right. It's a 349/4. 2.- I'm sorry, but I don't have the pic you're asking for.

You are wellcome, Monty349. I'm spanish, so I knew that there are some changes between british and continental models. If you want a shorter wheelbase, look for a 348 swingarm. It was a common change in the "official team" motorbikes.

Three major Cota 349 series. MkI (Yours) with its fuel level meter in the fiberglass tank ... but only in Spain. British law made it use an alluminum tank. MkII/III (White Wonder) with red frame and white tank. Magnesium front brake in its second series. MkIV (349/4) with closed gray frame, magnesium front brake, gray frame (and mudguards) and red plastic tank. This model's evolution was named as Cota 350.

Thanks again, friends. I won't be able to make any test in three weeks, but it's good to know the parts I have to find before opening the carb again. I'll keep informing. :-)

I've been testing my Keihin with Main 112 and pilot 52 (I had not an upper pilot jet in the toolbox), and it goes smoothly ... but sometimes it feels as if it's running low on fuel. I've ordered a 55 and a 58 pilots to continue trying. Maybe a 24 mm carb would have been a more logical choice for my 250, but the one I had at hand was the 28. :-) Thanks a lot for your help.

Take a look here: http://montesakingscorpion.blogspot.com.es/2015/09/una-de-moto-revue-y-otra-de.html It's written in spanish, but I hope the pics are clear. I use modern electronic condensers that cost around 0,5 euros.

Lighter? It's a light clutch if the cable is OK and its properly guided ... But yes, you can try.

Forget the 5%. A good synthethic oil should be mixed at 1.5-2% as a maximum, unless you want to keep your back foggy. Your motorbike has a "small engine" and that means only one kind of oil (SAE 10W30 like Motul Transoil), and 750 (when refilling) to 900 (for a brand new engine) cc.

Heat wont work for the primary gear. Both parts are made from steel, and both metals expand at the same rate.

For a Cota 330, we used a Mikuni VM 28 with these settings: Main jet: 130 Pilot jet: 40 Needle jet: 169-O0 Needle: 5F21 Slide: 2,5 Air screw, 1 and 1/2 turns. Don't ask me why, but we found a tremendous change between 35 to 40 pilot jet ... from 3/4 to full throttle! But it's my only experience dealing with Mikunis. I can't tell you if it is a general rule. PS: Sorry, I forgot to tell you that those settings are being currently used at 600 metres above the sea level.

That is the position I found the last time I opened my engine. I'm afraid I don't remember more details. :-( It's very similar to this picture that belongs to a 242 engine with a different clutch.

Hope this can be of help ...

I don't think that you have a problem with the seals. It sounds as you'd need a bigger slow jet. Do you know the exact settings you're currently using for the Mikuni? In my experience, those carbs work very fine, but can be a little tricky to adjust.

Thanks, longlegscanbeuseful, that's what I was looking for. I fact, the original Amal carb for both grippers is the same, so your settings should be a good starting point for my bike.

It's an interesting document, peterh. Thanks a lot! But it would be even easier if somebody has tried a successful combinación for my bike.

I'm trying to tune a Keihin carb for my Ossa 250 Gripper. I don't have any experience with these modern carbs, so it's being complicated. Can anybody give me a good starting point for its settings? If I'm not wrong, OKO jets are also valid for my Keihin. Thanks in advance.

17x28x7 Regards

Your problem is really easy to solve. Just clean the starter pilot that is located at the bottom of a hole in the carburettor's float chamber bowl. You'll need a 4x1 mm screwdriver.

This is is my engine seals list in spanish. Hope you'll find it easy to translate with Google. Eje primario del cambio semicárter izquierdo (lado embrague) 1 x medidas 20/30/7 Eje tambor selector semicárter izquierdo (lado embrague) 1 x medidas 22/32/7 Eje secundario del cambio semicárter derecho (lado encendido) 1 x medidas 17/28/7 Eje puesta en marcha semicárter derecho (lado encendido) 1 x medidas 17/28/7 Eje del selector semicárter derecho (lado encendido) 1 x medidas 15/24/7 Ejes del Cigüeñal (lados izquierdo y derecho) 2 x medidas 25/35/7, 20/30/7 en cigüeñales de cuello fino ó 25/40/7 en la Impala 2 Tornillos cierre semicárteres 12 x juntas tóricas diámetro 7,0 mm interior x 1,5 mm grosor Eje palanca embrague (tapa izquierda motor) 1 x medidas 14/20/6 Ruedas Retenes bujes ruedas 4 x medidas 23/40/10

Do you know the frame number? I'm not sure if it is a MkI or MkII. But in any case, it's been modified. For instance, the upper triple clamp is alloy while the other one seems to be made of iron.

Is that simple.

Sorry for the delay. I've been missing for some time. 5/30 can be an option. But it depends on the oil additives. Some of them will produce a slippery clutch. I've always used Motul Transoil 10w30. It has a specific formula for older engines.

I don't think you need a lightener if everything is working OK. If after checking what zerorev3rev4 has written the clutch is still heavy, you should open the engine and check if the bronze pusher is in the right position (it can be rotated and the bike's clutch won't work properly).

Has the clutch been disassembled before it got so heavy?