fkrisztian

How much is the petrol consumption of the 4T Sherco?

The problem is the air screw. I explain why. If you go too far with the float height then the symptoms are that the engine is hunting After you go up a big hill with lots of throttle. In your case the problem is the air screw. Because the fuel level is lower, more vacuum is needed to suck the same amount of petrol. But, your engine is the same, so the vacuum is the same, so you need to set up the air screw, or in some rare cases to change jets. So, turn the air-screw about 1 turn clock-wise and you'll be fine.

Do the 4 strokers pick up rev's slower than the 2 strokers?

I read the older topics about this issue, and I understand that the Renthal R1 chain is the best. I also understand that both the Talon and Renthal sprockets are very good. My question is: The original Beta sprocket has the same strength like the Talon (or Renthal) sprocket? Or the Talon is stronger and it lasts longer?

Also, some of the Sherco motorcycles has problems with the kick-start kicking back, which sometimes end with a broken kick-start mechanism. And some of the earlier GasGas's triple clamps has broken pretty easy.

Just done it recently. Piston is

I did this. And it stops the leaking. I just jumped over this step: 6. Drill down through existing hole at C. You need to drill 28mm. I don't think that this is necessary. (Maybe the older Mikuni carbs was a bit different, and there was needed this step, too?)

I like the GG with green plastics and green rims. Just the rims should be a bit darker green.

I have some additional information to the float level mod! After you set the float level properly it's recommended to richen the mixture. If the petrol level is lower in the carb then more vacuum is needed to suck the same amount of petrol. So by setting the float level lower, your bike will run leaner (or richer if you set the float level higher). To make the bike to run the same as before, you should turn the air screw clock-wise so the mixture will be good again. I don't think that it's needed to change the jets, the air screw setting is enough.

Iris chain? (photo4) I don't think that's a good idea. But actually it's light.

All the pro riders before attempting a big jump, or something hard, they "clean out the bike" by staying still, clutch pulled, and big throttle, high rpm, wait a few seconds, then shut the throttle. And only after that they attempt to make the jump. Why is this needed? It's only needed if the bike is a 2 stroke? Or the 4 stroke is the same? It's because of the 2 stroke oil in the petrol? The oil is staying in the carb, or in the crank case or in the exhaust or what?

What's the worst thing which happens if you put too much oil? Exhaust clogging. Can be solved with burning, or repacking the exhaust. What's the worst thing which happens if you put too less oil? Piston wear, cylinder wear, big end, small end bearings gone, main bearings gone. Can be solved by buying main bearings and seals, big end bearings (needs rebuilding the con-rod), small end bearings, replating the nikasil plated cylinder, top end and bottom end gaskets, and buying a new piston. You choose.

It's scanned from a motocross (and trial) magazine. Here's the website: http://www.motocrossdigital.com. It appeared in 2007. dec. You can download the magazine in electronic format from here: http://www.motocrossdigital.eu/online/down....php?rivista=13 Unfortunately I've not found any information of the 2 stroke motorcycles. I would be interested, too, because I ride a 2 stroke Beta.

That sounds really strange. On the Sherco website the Sherco manual says that the mix ratio should be 2%. Which is 50:1. Where did you see the 80:1 ratio?

I've used them both. I didn't felt any difference between them. The feeling of the clutch was the same, the colour of the oil was the same. I'm using dexron 3 now.

I think that the Sherco 3.2 and 4rt's power are Not the same. Here is a test about the four stroke bikes: (The black line is the Sherco, and the red is the Montesa. The Sherco has 20 hp, but the Montesa has only 17 hp.) (Down, you can see the torque, Montesa 20.5 Nm, Sherco 26 Nm).

My personal opinion is that the mixture is too lean. Try adjusting the air screw by rotating it clock-wise, and see if it solves the problem.

It's not a cast piece, it can be welded. The only problem is, that I'm not sure that after the welding, the bolt, which holds the brake, will fit. And the brake is very close, too. Anyway I think I'll give it a try. I was trying to jump up a rock from standstill. I was in this position: (It's not me on the pic, I just found it on the internet.) But I loosed my balance and I tried to avoid putting down my foot, so I jumped with both tyres at the same time, going a bit sideway (both brakes were locked). I jumped 3 or 4 times, and I managed to not put down my foot, but at the 4th jump I heard a cracky sound, so I get off my bike and I saw that the brake is not okay. I think that the wheel spacers are in the good way. But I will check this. And I'm sure that I didn't knock the brake on anything.

The rear brake complete is 70 quid at Lampkins. That is not cool, especially knowing that I don't need the complete brake. Do I have any other solution? So, do you like my supermoto style rear tyre? It has a lots of grip! NOT!

My rear brake has broken off. I don't know why. Can somebody help me finding the correct part number? I wan't to order the new part, but I can't figure out the part number, because the graphich of the parts list is very dumb. I want to order only that thing which holds the brake, because the brake is in perfect condition, so I don't need a complete rear brake. Here is the parts list: http://www.betamotor.com/en/bikes/download_explodeview/12

I'm just learning the splatter technique. Can somebody tell me that am I doing it right? (I don't want to learn the technique in the wrong way, and after that to I struggle to learn it in the good way. ) Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HfsQAOtCzk

Do you use ATF oil?

Please tell me, that this is not again a typical Beta stator problem. I hope that something else is the problem.

Hopping on the front wheel is not very easy. But hopping on the rear wheel is pretty simple. Even those who are riding biketrials only for 6-7 months can make jumps from rear wheel, and they can hop on the rear wheel pretty well. So it's not that hard than hopping on the rear wheel on a motorcycle.