fkrisztian

It's strange, that you say the bike hesitates. Because in a GasGas video the mechanic said, that if the bike hesitates, then it's running too lean and not too rich. Anyway I would say, that it's easier to turn the air screw, and leave the jets as they are. Try what's happening if you turn out a bit (anti-clockwise) the air screw, so you will get a leaner mixture. Also, it's a good idea to clean the carb, because this can also cause hesitating. And don't forget, that it is important that how much oil do you add to the petrol. More oil -> leaner mixture, less oil - > richer mixture. Some jets can work good for 50:1 petrol-oil ratio, but they are not working good if you use 80:1 petrol-oil ratio.

I ride biketrial, too. Here's a video of me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCLtkR5-y-0 Of course, I also have a Beta Rev3, so I ride motorcycle trials, too.

26"

It will be most probably the water pump seal. Easy to change.

My opinion is that this is most probably piston slap. If the carb would make the bike run lean, then it doesn't make any extra noise. If it runs lean, then after 30 mins - 1 hour, the engine will be too hot, and detonation, preignition occurs, which really makes sound, but I don't think that this is the case. It's a false economy changing the rings and top end bearing. It will make the compression a bit better, but the engine noise will remain. Some engine noise is normal, but if your's is making really excessive noise, then you should drain the water, and open the engine. The best way is to put the piston Without the rings (!) in the barel, and see if it's loose. The piston has a very bit of play in the barrel (because the piston expands when hot), but the clearance should be less than 0.1 mm. If the clearance is big, say 0.15 mm or more, then your problem is piston slap. You need to buy a new piston. (Of course check the barrel, too, for scores and scratches (which can occur if you have a problem with the air filter), and be sure that the piston is worn, and not the barrel. But anyway it's uncommon that the barrel to be worn.)

The standart front pipe's weight is just 800 gr (1.76 pounds), so I don't think that the Akrapovic could be much less.

The spring change need to be done by a professional motorcycle mechanic? I mean this is not the job what can be done at home, is it?

Yes, it is necessary to drain the oil.

How is the 08 Rev3 carb? Is the Keihin good? I mean no more downhill starting problems, and no fuel leaking through the overflow pipes?

What gear are you guys using at splatters? I have a Rev3 (stock gearing), and I don't know which to use, 2nd or 3rd gear?

I disagree, I believe that for making it leaner you need to turn it out (i.e. anti-clockwise).

The carb leaking is a typical Mikuni carb problem. The solution is the drilling modification. You will find information about this modification in the sticky "New Rev3 Mikuni Carb" topic. It's easy to make the mod, so don't worry.

I don't really understand. The flywheel is not needed for the stator to make the electricity, and in this way to appear spark at the plug? I don't really think that after completely removing the flywheel, the bike will start, because there will be no spark. Or I am misunderstanding something? Or you want only to machine some weight off, and to leave the flywheel on the bike?

You can ride without the flywheel, until the impact wrench arrives.

I think it's not recommended to use fully synthetic oil in the gearbox, because sometimes the clutch will slip. The synthetic oil is very "slippery". I think that a mineral oil would be better.

Would a gasket solve the problem? With a rubber gasket, it would be water proof. What do you say? Sherco motorcycles have rubber gasket and they do not have any stator problems.

I'm an absolute beginner. I've set up my suspension (both front and rear) with more spring prelod, and almost zero dampening. I'm a bit heavier that's why I need more spring preload and I set the dampening almost zero, because in this case the motorcycle jumps better. But this setup has drawbacks when it comes to steering and in many other cases, too. I repeat, I'm an absolute beginner.

I'm using BP5ES, and it's fine. But I know nothing about the other plugs.

I made the drilling mods, too. The fuel leaking problem solved. But I don't see any differnce about the engine stalling downhill. So, I've set the fuel tangs a bit even higher, and I think that now it's ok. Still not perfect, in some really steep downhills the idle speed still decreases, but most of the time it doesn't stall. I saw a picture here about a float extension bowl and a main jet shroud. From where can I order theese, and how much do they cost? And are they making the carb absolutely perfect?

Hi! All the bikes has an amount of engine sound. (I'm not talking about the sound of the muffler and I'm also not talking about piston knock or something like this. I'm talking about the normal sound of the engine itself.) Brand new bikes are pretty silent in the engine area. But with time somehow this sound can increase. Is it possible the reduce the engine sound? For example a new piston makes the engine more silent? Or new bearings, or what?

I have made the Billy T modifications, so the tang level is correct now. It's way better, but sometimes on decline, the engine still stalls, and the bike can't be started facing downwards. Should I make the drill modifications? Will that solve the problem? Or the drilling method only solves the fuel leaking problem, and has nothing to do with the engine stalling on decline?

Motorcycle Trials DVDrip. Download from here: LINK DELETED Balancing Act 3.avi 250 mb 32 minutes Super good video. It's a must. Footage from Adam Raga (and many other riders, too), huge jumps, trialshows, burnouts, and many others. It's a must see. ADMIN Content is copyright and therefore illegal to copy and distribute without permission therefore link has been removed