g4321

John Sorry to miss its debut on Sunday & will miss its competive debut in a couple of weeks as well, but glad to here you are happy with it Gordon

How does it compare to your RTL's John? Or is it too early to say. Does the Sherco have an oil pump or is it working off the same principle as the 1st Husaberg 4 stroke scramblers - using crankcase pressure to circulate oil around?

Is Pro4 the fully synthetic Silkolene oil? I tried it in my road going Honda (see Picture by my name) a few years ago but thought it was rather thin & gave a relatively high oil consumption (All RC30's use a bit of oil due to design of engine). I am now using Mobil 1 fully synthetic in that road bike which significantly reduced oil consumption. Hence I have tried NOT to use Silkolene for anything since this. I have Putoline Semi Synthetic in both TLR's at the moment and am happy with this oil - with this the oil comes out clean after each 2 - 3 trials. in the past I have used Good quality semi synthetic car oil (changing every 2nd trial) with no clutch slip problems but this will open a new discussion with many guys condeming me for this - these days a good bike oil aint that more expensive than car oil. In reality any good oil of the correct viscosity & specification will do as long as you change it regularly & clean the filter screen. The centrifugal filter, once you know how your bike 'behaves' can be cleaned probably once or twice a year - I've never found anything to wory me in it. There are pictures of an oil cooler equiped TLR in previous messages - perhaps the extra 300 - 500cc of oil capacity when a cooler is fitted is of equal befefit to the cooling effect on a TLR since the speeds the bike does are relatively low & air flow through a cooler will also be low.

Have a look at the www.jampot.com website of the AJS and Matchless Owners Club, they have an excellent club spares scheme with the majority of parts easily and cheaply (compared to modern bikes) available. I am pretty sure Johns bike is a 'proper' alloy barrel competition Matchless but starting off with a more common iron barreled G3LS - 350 or G80 - 500 Matchless or the equivalent AJS (Model 16S & Model 18S) a relatively low cost but useable trials bike could be built. The AJS and Matchless engine, frame and Gear box are all straightforward to work on and would provide hours of relaxation - even to build/restore a normal road bike, let alone a competition bike. Prices of 500 engines are on the up bcause they are the engine to beat in P65 scrambline (Motocross). the owners club started recasting 500 heads last year toi cater for this demand.

Excuse my comment but there cant be much to gain by comparing 2stroke and 4stroke carb settings. How is everyone who has bought one finding the 4T Sherco, there seems to be two distinct camps with th Honda - hate it or love it with very few people in the middle ground. As for reliability - any problems yet, given the problems that have been publisised at the SSDT.

And we all thought it was because you liked to be colour co-ordinated!!!

Isnt that a contradiction in terms - upgrading to a Scorpa? Remember the Scorpa value will drop while the Honda will rise. But if you must sell prices do tend to be quite high at the moment - big reserve of

HondaRS Unfortunately the crank I was refering to is from a 25.7cc Cyclemaster engine and most bearing pullers will not work on such a small diameter shaft & bearing - hence the careful use of a dremel. lets just say its not the heaviest construction motor in the world. I think that using a hammer/chisel would really wreck that one. As for a heavyweight stationary engine or similar then thats a different matter. Whether I could buy a Cyclcemaster puller after being out of production for over 50 years is highly debatable. There are times when makeshift methods are the easiest and most practical option, it all depends what you are working on. Glad it worked for pandelboy If as Boofont says Birkett recommends pressing the stem partially out of the bottom yoke to help remove a bearing so be it, who am I to argue. I wouldnt approach the job that way on my bike.

I personally would be a bit wary of pushing the steering stem through a yoke to remove the bearing race from the steering stem. I would be worried that this would weaken the fit of the stem in the yoke even if heat was used to expand the alluminium of the yoke. A puller is the ideal method but finding someone who has one to suit is not that easy. Carefull cutting using a dremel or equivalent does work - I have used this to remove main brearing races from a weak 2 stroke crankshaft where a puller could not be used. Using a couple of thin chisels or wedge pressed or hammered (if really rough) between the bearing race and yoke is the one method which is relatively straightforward. Once the bearing race starts moving use a thicker chissel or even screwdriver. I have heard of people removing bearing races by arc welding onto them but I am pretty sure this is really for removing outer races in alloy cases.

I would love to get a copy of that book but the last few I have seen for sale are rather expensive to put it mildly -

The word you are looking for is improvement - disk brakes alloy swinging arm lighter and thinner tank lighter exhaust All items a standard TLR is badly lacking. Just think a TLR200 which is lighter, runs better, stops better and is easier to handle. If Honda produced a trials bike would it sell today - I suspect it would.

http://zorki.hmc5.com/bike/TLR-nikki/20040...LR-20040516.htm have a look at the above website where a guy details the restoration and improvement of his TLR. It is in Japanese but if you use Google and languages tools you can translate each page of the website into pidgin English. There isn't really a picture of the completed project but the detail that this site goes into is well worth the visit. there are several other Jap specials detailed on the web - when I remember the locations I will post a link

I was using a Pentax *1stD (6mp digital SLR) with either an 18 - 35mm af lens or a 28 - 70mm af lens using a 1/60th second shutter speed because of the poor light, hence a little more camera shake than I would prefer. I refuse to use a flash gun when taking bike sport photos since I know from experience that flash distracts the rider. It was my first time trying my new camera at a bike sport event and I am pleasantly surprised with the results.

Carlos Here are a couple more from Alluminium Works The Rider is malcolm Smith from Ardersier in Scotland, and Inverness and District Motorcycle Club stalwort on his 250 James.

Zommed in on the motor & did a few trick to make it easier to see. Is barrel a 1off ? Whats the head - tL250? more importanly whats the Jap website to look at???

Note the word in the title is resistant and not petrol proof, in adition note the small print on the can very carefully - it will resist petrol but you are recommended to wipe off any spills immediately is how I read it when I looked at using this for something else..

What are you using for paint? If you are using acrylic based paint - ie the rubbish that is sold as paint these days in places like Halfords then you are correct it will run with petrol. I had the same problem with an oil tank of my AJS - I made an excellent job of painting it then cleaned out any final remnants of water or dirt with petrol about 10 days later. The petrol lifted the paint. I ended up using petrol to strip off the paint it was that bad. Try to get some cellulose paint or alternatively get it lacquered with two-pack lacquer by a proper paint shop.

A little further on!

Carlos as requested - This is Davy Morewood from Beighton in England on a 250 Royal Enfield. I have some more photos but unfortunately due to the weather none of the top riders like yourself, I spent much of the day at pipelinein the rain so the camera was in its bag!

Does this mean you are selling your RTL? Gordon

To save confusion HondaRS picked me up on this when I mentioned the same for a TLR200 You should find that the TLR250 has a circlip holding the front sprocket in place as standard, its the TLR200 which uses a mounting plate. The only drawbacks of a 9tooth sprocket is increased chain wear & low top speed. If those are original Honda mudguards I would suggest that you take them off and store them carefully then buy a cheap universal set to use on the bike. Original Honda guards are like hens teeth and are now fetching silly money so replace the original ones rather than snapthem if you intend to trial the bike. Well done Panomphaean in posting the details of the other TLR model - its the sort of information that will be usefull to many people. Gordon

Carles Unfortunately due to the weather on the Friday I did not take the camera out as much as I hoped to - new camera which I wished to try out a bit. So the answer to your question is not really, I might have some more pictures - I will have to check the quality!. Congratulations on an excellent ride in both P65 and main SSDT - the only other rider I recognised as doing this is Gavin Johnston - who got best newcomer award in the P65. Gordon

Since you are unlikely to find a brace new or in useable 2nd hand condition the simplest answer is to make one out of suitable alluminium. Unless someone is really 'clued' up on tLR's they will not know that the brace you have is not original. All that is required is a little patience and something of large enough radius to bend the curve over.

Excellent Andy, I was speaking to one of the riders last night who dosen't have a copy of the results, the organisers offer a copy of the 1st days results to the riders on the 'platform' as the set off on the 2nd day so many dont bother since there is no way of keeping them clean. Gordon

Andy Nice to see pictures of the midfield riders as well as the top stars. Keep it up. Gordon ps any further forward with the P65 results?