g4321

If they are really lucky Boofont will give them his autograph

I have tried a 9 39 and 10 39 combination but found that the 9 39 was too high for me - I was tending to stall a bit in tight bends since i am not a guy whlikes to slip the clutch a lot. As an experiment I bought a 44 tooth rear sprocket to use with the 9 front (the theory being if it was too low i could use the 10 front to put it back to std). I have found the 9 44 combination easier to ride than the 9 39 and the bike is now less prone to stalling. It might be a little low in first for some riders but I do tend to ride quite slowly.

Shim out the sprocket so that there is no sideways movement against the circlip with some washers, it takes a little time to sort out but it is worth it to try and minimise shaft wear. At the same time you can use washers to ensure that the chain alignment is closer to what you would prefer.

Three alternatives 1) Head gasket leaking - ie water getting in to cylinder - is the bike running hot & is the water level falling in the radiator?? 2) Has the crankshaft seal gone on the gearbox side & is gearbox oil being occasionally sucked into the crankcases? Check the gearbox oil level. 3) no doubt you have thought of this but have you added too much oil to the petrol?? ie added oil to fuel you have already mixed

Here is a photo of 'home made' plastic pipe fork protectors as earlier discussed in this forum. The reason for the 3 cable ties is that TLR forks have a raised band in the centre so the cable ties were added to ensure that the pipe is held firmly in place.

booma & HondRS cover the main thing which is change the oil regularly and clean the centrifugal filter as soon as you get the bike. As for valve lifter I would suggest to change to a manual valve lifter by making up a canle to a lever on the handlebars. I find it makes starting the bike a lot easier than the automatica variety. It has the benefit of allowing you to 'bump start' the bike easily on even a gentle slope. The other thing to think about is widening the footpegs (or if you are really rich buying wider pegs) and widening the back brake lever, its a lot easier to get to then.

As far as I am aware There is a slight difference to the tank mounting on 250 & 200. The 250 has a metal strap which slips over the frame 'mounts' & positions the rubber 'caps' which mount the tank about 2" higher up than on the 200. The 200 tank mounts on the frame directly via rubber 'caps' on the frame 'mounts'. Hope this makes sense - its easier to see than describe. I tried a 200 tank I have as a spare on my 250 & found the difference. It would be relatively easy to make up something to suit 250 type tank mounts.

Just a suggestion - if you find that your bike is slipping to one side have a good look at the tie straps you are using, some straps, especially when they are wet or become worn are prone to slip & this will allow your bike to become lopsided on the trailer - even if the strap is tied off below the clasp.. Try a length of rope alonside the tie strap the next time you go out - just in case - if this cures the problem then the answer is simple - buy some new straps! Me I prefer to see a bike tied from both the handlebars and from the footrests to minimise risk of bouncing out of the groove in the trailer. Its all personal preferance & depends on the trailer design you have.

Each 'mob' is as bad as the other John - as you well know. The only change to countryside rules the other mob would do is bring back hunting so all the ok yah's can prance about on horse back looking like right prats following fox hounds. Not that I would be voting for the current lot i hasten to add.

Another firm to try is Silent Stainless, they have an excellent catalogue covering everything from cycle thread through to Metric coarse & fine. I have bought numerous bolts etc from them in the past & was delighted with quality & price www.silentstainless.co.uk

I was reading threough this thread thinking that using a filter skin might be an answer to your problems when I found someone else had suggested the same thing. We used to use them on MX bikes in dusty conditions & they are an excellent idea, working just as the manufactureres say they will. I sometimes went as far as using 2 or 3 skins on a filter & removing the outer one after each race during the day - that was the filter stayed clean until the final race.

Its a good idea to clean out any blind holes on your cases with a small drill bit turned by hand , the dirt, gasket cement & even swarf will be removed by the action of the drill. The other way is to use a nozzle on a tin of contact cleaner or WD40 but this is messy and sprays the dirt you dont want to get into your engine over everything. Trying to drill out a broken stud or snapped bolt can also be done by hand using an Archimedes drill and a small bit to make a pilot hole. There is less chance of going off centre by this method but it is extremely time consuming.

Are there any oversize pistons available for TLR200's - Honda dont list any oversize pistons on their microfiche.? There are also no oversize pistons listed for the XR200 - which has a similar top-end. Perhaps there are some aftermarket parts available (eg Wiseco), probably more chance for the XR in the USA, but even then the piston will probably have to be modified to lower the compression to suit.

Best thing you could do with a bike like that! Looks very good to me - whats the motor 200 Honda? How much ground clearance did you lose?

B & Q also have a website - for those who prefer the inexpensive methods for fork protection. B & Q

I had a set on my TLR on Sunday John - must have looked good if you did not notice- glad I did after all those falls. 40mm waste pipe (white colour) does the trick - about

Top speed depends on gearing & power. If you gear up your bike it will go faster IF it has the power to pull the gear you are using. I would put a guess at 45 - 60mph on std gearing but anything up to 80mph on raised gearing. After that wind resistance & lack of power at high revs will make your quest for higher speed pointless. I geared up my TLR250 for an enduro - raising the front sprocket by 4 teeth from 9 to 13, (39 back) this gave a significant increase in speed - the other riders reckoned it was topping out at around 75mph on a long forest road (I was catching some MX bikes on the road) but to be honest I dont think it would have pulled a higer ratio. Given the bikes power I think this would have been an reasonable maximum speed.

A man after my own heart but I would have to eat a lot of humble pie to lower myself to competing on a 2 stroke! Two strokes may not be banned in the UK (I hope not I have some odd 2 stroke bikes in my shed) but production will stop because of pressure from our ?friends? across the pond ie in the US of A.

There seems to be a bit of confusing information going around in this post re MOT regs. I was pretty sure about a couple of things which have been missed out & have just checked with my friendly local MOT tester re 'Modern bikes'. Number Plates By the sounds of things (some testers may be leniant?) you will need to fit a legal number plate vertically or near to vertically on the bike - IT IS PART OF THE MOT REGS. What you do once you leave the test centre is up to you. Reflector This is missing off that MOT regs site (I used that site to prepare an old bike for an MOT a couple of years ago but checked the reflector regs before I tested it). YOU WILL NEED A REFLECTOR, again vertical or near vertical EVEN FOR A DAYTIME MOT. Brake Light - If you have lights you must have a brake light from both front and back brakes(only need one pre 86). If you go for a daytime MOT - no brakelight required BUT it is a legal requirement on the road apparently - I am just quoting what I have been told. Sorry to be bearer of bad tidings but for the

Have a look at the results for the BAMCC trial the guy with the lowest score overall Alan Crayk was riding an elderly twinshock Montesa - dropping 13 overall which shows it is not the bike but the rider that counts. his score is significantly better than the majority of the other competitors. Pity about the weather - on a dry day it would have been an excellent trial.

TLR200 has 35mm forks & gold alloy rims with red tank/seat/mudguards Reflex has thinner 33mm forsk, steel rims & white tank/seat & mudguards. Weakspots Wheel rim corrosion on gold rims - look at previous posts - gold rims rot from inside & out. Noisy top end - from lack of oil changes. Worn 'splines' on output shaft where sprocket fits - check for movement on sprocket There are guys out there who know a lot better than me what to look for - have a search through previous posts and you will find reflex & TLR pictures. Otherwise its a Honda & is built to last not a Gas gas! - just wait on the comments Then again its going to be 15years old or so & there is bound to be some wear.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...item=4537931326 Not what you expected then is it! I always was told the TLR was a bit of a truck to drive.

If it was me the condition of the bike would be more important than the age. Think of the cost of changing 'consumables' like brake pads, fork seals, wheel bearings, chain & sprockets - here you are probaby talking of upwards of

I suffered an intermittant missfire during a trial at the weekend. Bike started first kick as usual - nothing seemed untoward. Disconnected kill switch then changed plug but to no avail. Finished trial and decided to investigate further. The plug was extremely black & sooty which suggests either weak spark or rich mixture but since bike starts ok the second route was my first thing to investigate. The carb aint brilliant, there is a fair bit of wear on the float valve & float pivot so these are being replaced as a matter of course. The 's;low running jet' may have been partially blocked - hard to really identify but there was a small bit of petrol pipe rubber lying in the float bowl. Nothing to clearly explain the symptoms of the bad running but might be the source of problems. On investigating the wiring the 1st connection I checked was the main feed from the generator, here the connector rubber was perished and it is clear that water has been causing a bad connection & probably weak spark - ie ok slow running but poor performance under load. The reason for writing this is to suggest that the connections in your TLR wiring loom are now going to be up to 20 years old so if you notice any rubber perishing or splitting when under the tank do something about it now so you dont have a frustrating day like I had. Heat shrink works wonders!

I'll likely have a marker pen or even some insulating tape in the boot of my car so if you are unsure how to apply your SACU licence number I will be happy to lend out the requisite equipment! I better check that the bike I am riding has the correct number on the front!