gazzaecowarrior

Thanks james. Nice Mont by the way.

Many thanks for that great advice. After reading your other post about the conical hub I'm hoping I can keep the bearings in situ as the hub paint is immaculate and the bearings are brand new. I just need to powder coat the flange. Do you still have a mont then ?

That helps a lot. Many thanks. Is the non spoked flange the part that the speedo lugs fit into ? I'm amazed it's only those 3 little nuts which hold the hub on. Gareth

Hi there. Been looking at the wheel bearings in my conical hub. Just wondering on the best way to get them out in case I send the hub off for powder coating. There is a rubber seal on both sides which I have removed. There is then a circlip on one side against a bearing but no circlip on the other side. There looks like there is a spacer between the bearings. Just wondering which would be the best way to tap them out if I do have to take them out. Would one go one way and the other the other way or do they both tap out in the opposite direction of the circlip ? Regards Gareth

Hi there I'm just about to send my front wheel off for a re-spoking. I was just wondering if the front hub is in two pieces or one ? The non brake side which has the longer spokes appears to be made of steel and the rest seems to be alloy. Is this the case ? If so and the wheel was de-spoked would the two parts seperate easily? The only reason I ask is because the steel part is rusty and the alloy side is immacualte. I was going to have the whole hub powder coated but if it comes into two parts I would just send off the steel bit as it would save me having to remove the bearings on the alloy side as they are brand new. Regards Gareth

Thanks for that. Yes I agree. It is an orangey red but I need to be a bit more specific. Gareth

Well it looks like I may be going down the powder coating route on my Montesa MH123 restoration. Can't afford chroming. Does anybody have any idea what colour the frame should be with reference to a ral colour code. Rocky Mountain Montesa say it is a St germain red. However poiwder coating companies only seem to use the ral colour scheme.I am not very good with colours but I think the closest colour seems to be code 2005 which is an illuminous orange. A link to the colour chart is below. I accept the actual colour may be tottally different to how it appears on screen too. Would appreciate some assistance. http://allral.com/color_tables.php

just been looking at the maldon shotblasting and powder coating site. Turns out they do a chrome powder coat. This may be the way forward. Has anybody used this company ? Their prices look competetive.

That does look a cool mont. I really don't know about the leather though. Just been giving my new bike a good look over. I'm convinced the paint is original as it has many of the original stickers on it. It has just been touched up badly around the footpeg area on one side. Maybe I should get these areas resprayed to keep it's originality. But I do really fancy a metal finish. Is the nickel cheaper ? Could it be electroplated ?

Thanks for that. I will have a look. Im just not a massive fan of powdercoating. The bike is only ever going to be polished anyway as my injury six months ago means I'll never compete again.

That does look nice to be fair

Ive never heard of that. Have you had it done before ? Any good ? How much does it cost ?

Im restoring my Mont mh123 and I would like to go down the chrome frame route. I know the frame should be painted 'saint germain red' but I fancy chrome. I had considered powder coating but I've had mixed results from this in the past and fancy something different. I Know nothing about metal treatments. I've just had a quote for £800 from Ashford chroming to do my frame and swing arm. This involved sandblasting, chroming and polishing. I'm sure the finished article would have looked amzing but this is way beyond my budget. Are there any metal treatments out there which will give a nice chrome or silver finish without the expense ? Also does anybody know any companies which wil do such a process and roughly how much will it cost ? Has anybody anodised their frames too ? Gareth

It was the throttle cable all along !!!

Upadate. Stripped carb. Put airline through it. Rebuilt it according to above instructions. rerouted throttle cable. Bike runs sweet as a nut. Many thanks. Gareth

That is a fantastic bit of advice and many thanks ineed. I've got monday off work so I'm going to dedicate it to the carb and get the bike running. gareth

Thanks for that info. I suppose it will be trial and error with the throttle stop screw. Any idea how many turns out the air screw should be on a mont 123 amal carb ?

Thanks for that info. What about the gap at the bottom of the slide and the carb body ? Should it be as much as 2mm ? Gareth

I'm trying to work out why my Mont is over revving. It could be so many things so Im just going through each possbibility one at a time. Cable routed well and moving nicely. New carb rubber to cylinder. Throttle body moving well and not caught. Just taken carb apart. I've never had an amal carb before so Im not use to their seting up. The slide seems to have about 2mm gap at the bottom. This seems a bit excessive. Am I right ? I thought the idle jet alone would allow for it to idle with the slide shut. Does the slide require a gap and if so how much ? Also, Im worried that the slide may be worn. Should there be any play at all in the slide or not ? gareth

Thanks for that Big John. That is good advice. I will stick with it then. The guy I bought it off kindly gave me about 2 litres of the R40 so that will keep me going for years. I sadly am recovering from knee surgery so there is no riding for me anyway. The Mont is just a little project to appease the sadness of me having to sell my Evo. Just couldn't bear not having a bike. Apparently this oil smells great when it's running. Once I've sorted the amal carb Ill be able to comment on it. Gareth

Just got a Montesa mh123. The guy before me had been using Castrol R40 in it. I would like to change to a modern premix such as comp 2 or mx5. He said if I do this I must remove head and barrell and clean small end, rings and piston etc as a non castor based oil will not adhere to the residue of the R40. Is this the case or is this a bit of over kill ? Can I just switch to the new oil ?

Thanks for that. I will give it a good inspection this week. I'm hoping it's not the crank seals but it maybe as the bike has been stood many years. Is it possible to replace the ignition side crank seal without splitting the cases ?

Just picked up my little mont mh123. The guy I bought it off said that the revs build up without you touching the throttle to the point it's about to go bang. He thought it was an air leak so he had bought a new inlet rubber from carb to cylinder head but still the same problem. He had also bought a new needle as he thought the original was a bit scarred. I've literally just brought the bike home so I haven't even had time to look at it. Any ideas ? It does sound like an air leak to me. He also said that the motoplat ignition system won't cut out with a kill switch when the revs build beyond a point and you have to pull the plug cap off. Is this the case or do i just need a better kill switch ? The current one looks like an old bicycle bell. I want to be able to kill the engine as I don't want to be over revving a cold engine.

You'd probably have to chat it over with the DVLA. I probably shouldnt say it but you could try and get a 125 frame and log book and put a 175 engine in it and nobody would be the wiser. On future posts, be more specific with your title i.e. 'ty175' and you will get a load more posts. Good luck with the project.

Hi Tony Ive had a few ty's. Just put a ty125 cylinder and piston kit on. The bottom half of the 175 engine is exactly the same as the 125. My first ty175 was originally a 125 with a 175 cylinder. The front exhaust pipe of the 125 is the same as the 175. Only the silencer is different. hope this helps.