gazzaecowarrior

Hi there In a trial today and was blasting up a graded hill climb when all power just faded. Bike stopped. Couldn't be kicked over. There appears to be a spark at the plug. Fuel is in the tank as I had just refilled for the 3rd lap. Managed to get the bike going but it would only idle on full throttle. It was enough for me to limp back to the van with me pushing it. What do people reckon this could be ? It's dark so i haven't had the chance to give it a once over yet. When it died on the hillclimb it was just like my stator failing on my Rev3 but i didn't think the rev4 had these problems. Would appreciate your advice. Carb or electrics ?

This problem was so common with TY's that my local shop use to have an exchange service for the damaged casing. From what i remember it's ok to weld. I've got a restored TY myself now and I'm very carefull kicking it over as my cases are polished and crack free. I've even set the kickstart back a few turns on the splines so that it doiesn't jolt forward. This does however lessen your kicking arc but it's beter than a cracked casing.

I agree. My practice wheel has a tube in it as I just can't be bothered to waste a tube of Dr Sludge in an effort to get a good seal. I must have ridden 100 hours plus on it and it's never slipped or burst. I accept you can't ride with as low a psi and perhaps the tyre doesn't work as well but not all of us are riding in the world champs are we.

Hi there Could anybody tell me why rear shocks often have a spherical bearing. It's not as if the shock moves from side to side in the swing arm or does it twist a bit ? They only go up and down don't they. Why not a roller bearing or ballrace ? The lower shock bearing on my beta is a bugger to get out and usually requires a pneumatic press to get it out which I don't have. It's in such a position that it is allways going to get a lot of abuse from either dirt flying off the tyre or water from the jetwash. Has anybody machined a bush system instead or fitted a different type of bearing which would give a greater longevity and be easier to replace. The spherical bearings are nearly

I think you just need to let this one go and move on. When you start riding the harder routes you will be getting loads of 5's anyway. It's all part of the learning curve. 5's are far easier to add up too. Your lucky to have somewhere to practice in all fairness !!!

No more leaky spokes. There is a god. The Dr Sludge factory will probably close down as a result !!!

Hi there. Well I got the bike to the trial and the brake worked ok. When I stripped the master cylinder down the washer behind the circlip had become concaved. I presumed this should be flat so i straightened it. I believe it was this offending part that was preventing the plunger from moving back enough. I reassembled the cylinder and I back bled the system again. Striaght away the brake felt better. I still think there are tiny bits of air in the system but I have now been shown how to get these little bubbles out by tapping the lever gently. I will do this throughout the week. Thanks for all your help. Gaz

Thanks for that. That is something I havent done yet. It would be good if it is as it would mean not having to strip down the whole cylinder. Will let you know the outcome.

Hi there, I posted on here a few days ago and had some good responses. Basically I can't get pressure in my front brake when I'm bleeding it. I've done everything I should do but still no pressure. I've also acted on all the advice that was given and still no joy. I thought it was a blockage before and now I'm certain. Decided to back bleed it with a shyringe. Came up with a huge amount of pressure that was so great I couldn't get any fluid into the system. I decided to disconnect the braided hose at the master cylinder and the shyringe was able to push the fluid through with no effort at all. I can only think that the problem is located within the master cylinder as once the cylinder is connected again, there is a blockage and fluid can't be pushed through. Do people agree with me ? So what should I do now ? I was thinking of stripping the master cyclinder down and getting some compressed air and blowing it all through. Maybe get some solvent type cleaner and clean it with this too. But what solvent is safe ? I haven't got a new set of seals for the cylinder and won't be able to get hold of some before the trial on sun. Will I damage the seals by taking the master cyclinder apart or will I be able to re-assemble with the old ones still in situ ? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks for all your advice. I will try everything tonight and let you know. I allready have a degree of play between the lever pusher and the piston so i don't think it is that but I will certainly give it a go. Thanks.

Nice one jason. I am certain Ive got a blockage though somewhere. Im going to have a good look at it tommorow and saturday. If I've got no success I may give you a ring saturday. I've still got your number. Gaz

Please help me as I've drawn a blank. My front brake felt a bit spongy so I thought i'd bleed the system and get any air out. I've bled hundred of brakes but just can't seem to get any real pressure back in the system. It just about starts to apply the pads when the lever is pushed right in. Also what comes out of the nipple doesnt seem to be as big as usual.The brakes were fine before I bled them so I'm certain it's not the seals. I havent adjusted the levers at all. Could it be a blockage ? Usually when I bleed the front brake you see a few little bubbles in the resevoir but I havent seen any. Could there be a blockage here ? I have compressed air and was thinking of bowing it through from the nipple end and clearing the system and starting again. Would this be a good idea ? Just to confirm I'm not doing anything really stupid when I bleed the brakes I do the following : - Put pipe on nipple and release nipple. - Remove master cylinder cover and pump brake. - When no air bubbles appear in pipe I keep lever pushed in and tighten nipple. I also tried to do it as I would my hydraulics on my mountain bike i.e. from the nipple up backwards. I didn't seem to be able to push anything through at all. It does seem like a blockage. I'm sure Im doing things right but I can't get the pressure up. Your advice would be much appreciated. Thanks. Gareth

A blindfold makes it quite interesting !!!

I use putolene 10/40 fully synthetic. Change mine every 3 trials. Change my filter at the same time. Don't forget to blow out the the little mesh filters at the same time with some compressed air. regards gareth

The 08 Rev 4 is a great bike but why doesn't it have a rear disc cover ? It's not like it's a road bike and it's never going to hit a rock. Anybody know anything that would fit. Disc is on the right hand side. Lampkins can't help. Someone suggested a montesa may fit ? Any ideas ? I've ruined one disc allready.

Hi there I fitted a DRC exhaust guard to mine and it fits like a glove. Cost about

Hi there Your fan running sounds fairly normal. Trial bikes have small radiators and dont have the benefit of air / wind rushing through the rad fins like moto x and road bikes do when they go fast. We spend so much time almost stationary that the engine temp will rise. If it kicked in 5 mins from cold, that sounds about normal. You will know when the engine is about to over heat as steam will start flying out of the rad cap. Altitude will certainly affect the carburation of the bike too. Hope this helps.

Well I am going to have to disagree about risers as they did nothing for me except make it hard to keep the front end down on big climbs and steps. After snapping my rear mudguard I took them off and have had no more flipping incidents. I must admit that they do make a very nice riding position as I am six ft 4 also but i don't think it is coincidental that the front end issues stopped after they came off. I had them on for six months. Why not use your height to your advantage ? We can take great dabs with our long legs !!!

Shame on you Jason for even thinking about buying a gas gas. Doesn't the Dr Sludge work any more ?

I use DR Sludge every time I change my tyres. Most of us haven't got the time to be taking tyres on and off trying to cure a minimal leak from the spokes and rim tape. You can scoop it out and stick it in the new tyre too. If it fouls your valve then just blow it through with the air compressor.

Hi there I'm six foot four and built like a racing snake. Bought some bar risers to help eleviate the problem. Raised the bars about 18mm. Since fitting them I have noticed that I am really struggling to keep the front end down on steep banks and hill climbs. I bought the risers as it helped feel more comfortable and especially nicer when dropping off banks etc. I am certain my front end prblem is to do with the risers as they must be making my body geometry lean back. My fork legs (excluding fork caps) sit about 2mm proud of the top yoke. Should I drop the forks in the yoke more to compensate for the risers or not bother ? If I keep flipping the bike I'm going to take the risers off. Your ideas would be most welcome.

Hi there. There is a frame on e bay ref 180504564531. I am intrigued as to whether it is a home made effort or something better. It's definately started off life as a ty175. It looks like it's got adjustable rear shock positions which would have to be bolted as there don't appear to be any shock mounts. Interesting. Any ideas ?

How do people cut their grips to fit bar ends ? I've bought some hebo bar ends and would appreciate some advice before I butcher my new renthal grips.

Just intrgued as to what width people have their handlebars ? I know some people chop a bit off their bars. I never have chopped mine but I feel a slightly shorter bar would make some twisty sections a bit easier. 1cm either side obviously would make it 2cm in total which would make a big difference. Get the tape measure out and measure end to end length.

I wouldn't worry too much about the neutral problem. At least if it is difficult to select you shouldn't accidently select it whilst in a section. There is nothing worse than hitting neutral when you think your in second and you just tipple over to the side. As previously mentioned, use your hand to select the neutral. If you are trying to find neutral because you want to park up, just switch off the engine in gear and then find neutral when the engine is off. It is much easier. Hope this helps.