gazzaecowarrior

If the problem is acute in onset you may have dented the fork slider. This will certainly make the action of the fork very stiff and may even make the slider stick on the leg. A bent fork leg may give a similar stiff action. Why not take off the wheel and compress each fork seperately and see which of the fork, or maybe both, is causing the problem.

I use ATF is my TY175 forks too. Nice and cheap and it makes the gearbox and clutch nice and smooth too.

Right then. I have just started to strip the bike down. There is a carb breather going from the top right hand side of the carb and it goes up the frame of the bike towards the fuel cap. Then there is a pipe coming from the left hand side of the carb down to a t-connection. There is a short tube and a long tube connected to this t connection but the short tube is not connected to anything and I am sure it should be. The long tubing from the t connection appears to be going down to the swingarm which is where I imagine it should go. Am I right in thinking that the short end goes to the black plastic elbow which is on the right hand side of the carb. Currently this black plastic elbow doesn't appear to be connected to anything so am I correct in thinking this has come loose from the short tube from the t connection ? Also could this be a cause of my backfiring ? Finally at the front left hand side of the carb just above the float bowl there seems to be a hole which I am sure may house another plastic elbow which may be missing. Should it have anything in it or is it supposed to not have anything coming out of it ? Your help would be much appreciated. Gareth

Hi there. Just downloaded the parts diagram from Beta Uk. The page with the carb is so small when i try and enlarge the image it just blurs to the point where it is unreadable. Does anybody have a diagram of the carb and it's various breather / overflow pipes ? Also I saw a thread on this site which showed the direction of all the breather /overflow pipes. Have tried searching for it again and can't find it. Could someone help me find this thread please ? Regards, Gareth

Thanks guys for all your help. I am going to run it through the workshop this morning and give everything a good overhaul. I will silicone the mid-pipe and see if that helps. I wil have a good look at the inlet rubber too.

Is this a normal thing then. When i fired up the bike after washing it there was a bit of frothing between the flange of the front pipe and mid pipe so I suppose a bit of gas could have been escaping / drawn in. Does it dissapate as the bike warms up ?

Just bought an 08 Rev 4. Literally just got it back from buying it. It seems to have a bit of a backfire after it has been revved hard. Is this simply an over rich fuel mixture ? I hold my hands up and say I am tottally new to four strokes. It starts fine. A I said, I have literally pulled the bike out of the van and gave it a good wash. Haven't had a chance to check the colour of the plug or see how many turns out the air screw is. Am I barking up the wrong tree with this being an air mixture problem ? Your opinion much appreciated. regards Gareth

Hi there. Just bought an 08 Rev4. Seen a few threads on this site about gearbox oil. What is the concensus now as to what suits the bike best ? 15/50, 10/40, 10/50 ? Would appreciate your opinion as I like to buy 5 litres worth at a time to save cash and I don't want to buy the wrong one. regards. gareth

Bought a 08 rev 4. Pick it up saturday. Will keep you posted as to how it all goes. Very excited !!! Also have any of you guys had trouble with the kickstart rubbing the frame. The guy who I have bought it off said that he had to file down the kickstart to make it a good fit. This is despite it being a modified kickstart which beta supplied. Any other things i need to be carefull with ? Gareth

Thanks guys for all your advice. I really don't know which one to go for. i've owned Betas recently and have loved every minute of my Beta rev (except the stator problem) so i am very tempted to try the beta. I don't use a lot of power in sections and I think the sherco may be a bit of a brute. I will keep you posted. Any more advice will be greatfully recieved. Gareth

Hi there. Decided to give the four strokes a bit of a go. I think it would be a good choice considering the forthcoming welsh winter mud fests that seem to plague most events. Was just wondering whether the 08 Beta 4t is better than the 08 Sherco 320 4t. What are their strengths and weaknesses ? I've heard the Sherco clutch is a bit of an on/off situation. I know I have left out Montesa in this comparison but I simply can't afford a recent one.

Hi there. I've got to take the flywheel off to get to my stator as there is no spark. I am still hoping to discover it is just the woodruff key thats sheared but I think I am being optimistic. Just ordered a flywheel puller. Was wondering if one of you could offer me a step by step guide to taking the flywheel off. Does the main flywheel nut unscrew anti-clockwise ? Can I do it without a flywheel holding tool. How do I use the flywheel puller ? I have searched this forum and it seems I need an impact ratchet to do it which I don't have. All your help would be greatly appreciated. Regards Gareth

I wish it was a plug problem. I carry a spare plug, levers and mini tool kit whenever I get on the bike. I've ben caught out too many times before !!!! The first thing I did was try a new plug and check for a spark. When I realised it wasn't sparking I knew it was something I couldn't repair at the bottom of a pit. Got a day off tommorow so I'm going to check all the connections one final time before i order a new stator or get mine re-conditioned. But i think it is the stator for deffo sadly.

I don't want to give Beta a slagging off as I have had this bike over two years and this is my first stator problem. All bikes have a weakness I suppose as do their riders. I have been in contact with West Country Windings and they will test and rewind my staor for

Hi there. Bloody bike died at the bottom of a pit. Just stopped. No spark. I have checked everything and all the conectors and kill switch look together. I iamgine this is the stator that has gone. It was running perfectly before it stopped. Do people agree ? Why didn't it happen at the top of the pit. It took 3 of us to drag the f*****g thing to the top !!!

Cheers fellas. I will consider these and give them a go. Probably opt for the petrol one as it's cheapest. No flames this time though. Gareth

Hi there. Just finished decoking my front pipe and silencer and the bike sounds and revs so much better than it did. I did it by soaking the pipe in petrol and throwing a match at it and running like hell. The pipe burned for ages and after a light tap with a rubber mallet all the old carbon came out. I was wondering whether I could use the same technique on the aluminium midbox or is there a danger of it melting ? Am i correct in thinking the mesh inside the mid box is steel rather than aluminium ? I was wondering whether anybody has used this technique on the midbox. I don't have access to oxy-acetelene or a propane burner. I know I can't use anything caustic as it reacts with aluminium. Apologies if someone has allready posed this question but I couldn't find an appropriate answer on the forum. Regards. Gareth

I've had my Gaerne boots for about a year and a half. Allways oil them and dry properly. Do about 1 trial a month and practice once a week. Noticed that the stitching on the left boot has broken and the leather is starting to come away from the rubber sole. Taken the boot to a couple of cobblers and none of the say they can repair it. Apart from this area of stitching breaking, the boots are in really good condition but it looks like they are going to be chucked if they can't be repaired. This seems crazy as I had my last pair of boots for years. Was wondering if anybody else had had trouble with Gaerne boots and how long do people tend to get out of their boots ? I doubt I can take them back after a year and a half either. Gutted !!!

Ha ha !!! Nor were we. We just invited ourselves. It rained and rained and rained. Fun trial though.

Hi Jason You riding tommorow for the Team Trial ? Me and Dave are riding together to fly the flag for Merthyr. Looking forward to it. Havent done a trial in 2 months for various reasons. It's going to p*** down !!!!

Did all that. Used the broom handle. Couldn't tighten it up any more. When I put forks back together and in the triple clamps with wheel on it still rotates. I think I am just being over fussy. When I say it rotates I am really pushing hard on the allen bolt for it to do so. I think it is satisfactory. Would anybody mind having a go at turning their left fork drain bolt and seeing if it roates under pressure ? Regards. Gareth

Thanks for the advice. I am on my own tommorow so wont be able to get anybody to help me. Would I be able to get the same effect from strapping the bike down with ratchet straps till the forks bottom and then try tightening it up ? Obviously this would be with spring in and fork cap screwed in.

Hi guys, this isnt on the damper side. This is on the spring side. I realise it is turning inside.

Hi there. Just changed the oil in my 04 Beta Rev 250 forks. Upon assembling the forks I found that the allen bolt which is the drain bolt on the left hand fork seems to keep rotating. It has tightened up to a satisfactory torque feeling but it rotates when you try to really tighten it. The thread is abseloutely fine. Is this normal ? It is certainly tight enough to not come loose but the right hand drain bolt tightened up to a point it couldn't go further and I expected the same of the left. I appreciate the left and right are tottally different with one being a damper and the other a spring. I am sure the last time I did the forks I didn't experience this. Is it ok to leave it like this ?

You can gain a bit more adjustment from the cable itself. There are adjusters at the top of the cable. Then if that is still not sufficent, take off the flywheel cover and you will see a nut with a little cross headed bolt sitting inside it. This is situated roughly below where the clutch arm goes into the crankcases. This is the clutch release mechanism. The Haynes manual has a good section on how to set it. Best of luck. Gaz