gazzaecowarrior

Update. Checked with mate and he agreed that pedal felt good. He is a rider riding at a very high level. Braking pad removed and his old pad put back. Just to make this fair I put back a pad from his 2010 evo 250 which isnt a perfect match for my 08 rev4 disc but it still works. Brake worked well after a couple of pushes. So did my old pad afterwards. So to conclude, it was not air in the system , it was the pads. I work in anaesthetics and I realise that air where it shouldn't be can be fatal. Thankfully brakes are more forgiving.

The pads are 'braking'. Used these pads before and they seem fine before

Thanks. Will check that too

It started when I put on new pads. Bike was fine before that. I agree with you about how bad the brakes are too bleed. I started by back bleeding mine.

Thanks fellas for the above responses. Will try the above water trick as I did it before and it helped. Sadly the last trial I did permitted no riding before the event so I couldn't see if my brakes were good after I changed my pads. It was only in the first section I realised I had problems. Various adjustments through out the trial involving turning out the plunger thread imporoved things but were still nowhere near close to locking up. I had a look at the pads yesterday and Im concerned how much wear they had after one trial considering i had no real brakes. I will also take a micrometer to the discs today. Im going up to 'Betabonkers' house today and he's going to have alook at it too. Two heads are usually allways better than one.

Air in the brake line causes the spongy sensation. Air is easier to compress than brake fluid. My brakes don't feel spongy.

I would go with the latter. I will try my spare wheel tommorow and see if the disc on that helps

You under estimate my ocd and attention to detail. The pedal is not spongy in the slightest.

Yes i do

I've drawn a total blank with my rear brake. Basically I can't get close to the wheel locking out. Even with brake pedal fully compressed it still rotates. I think I've done everything to remedy the situation and this includes :- - New pads which are 1 trial old. - System re-bled. No air in system and good feel on the pedal. - Pads cleaned after last trial and didn't seem contaminated. - Pistons moving nicely in caliper. - Disc rubbed down and cleaned with alchohol solution. I really have drawn a blank. I had a dreadfull scorecard at the last trial as I just couldn't stop going down any of the big drops. Any ideas fellas ? Gaz

Saturday was the worst ride I have ever had in my trials career. During which I managed to bang my fork leg against a rather unfriendly rock. The scuff is about 1cm long and is more of an abrasion. The fork seems ok, doesn't seem to affect the working of it and the seal seems to be sealing. No evidence of oil on the leg. I've very lightly run some wet and dry over the area to make sure there are no proud edges. Does anybody know any good places where they do good repairs and any idea of the cost ? or is there anything else I could do to get rid of the blemish ? My bike is an 08 Rev4 and has black fork legs. Thanks gareth

Hi there May have misread your post a bit. I thought you were offering to drill it. Apologies, it was very early in the morning. It's ok, I know what the stock air screw looks like. I just don't think it's worth the risk of drilling it unless I can be 100% sure I won't damage the thread. The carb is very expensive on the 4t as you know. The engineer who had a look at it for me is very gifted with how he machines things and even he gave odds of only 50/50 of getting it out undamaged. It just isn't worth the risk as I can't afford a new carb and the bike runs sweetly in the position it is in. I'm not planning on riding anywhere low, high altitude so i think I will just have to put up with it. Thanks anyway. Gareth

Thanks for the help but Im in the United Kingdom

Hi there Been taking apart my 08 rev 4 carb. It's clearly never been touched and the bike hasn't had a great deal of use. But every screw on the carb is seized / over tightened by the factory. I had to use all the tricks in the book to get the screws out of the float bowl and diaphragm top. I'm not being a retard, these screws were jammed solid and had clearly been over tightened by whoever had assembled the carb. I have replaced these and greased the threads with nice stainless allen bolts so hopefully problem solved. But the airscrew just disolved when I put the screw driver on it. The screwdriver fitted perfectly. It too is jammed / seized in it's thread. I took the carb to a motorcycle engineer (I'm very lucky as he has a workshop a few streets away) and he said he had tried everything bar drilling and couldnt get it out. he didn't want to drill it and use a bolt extractor as I had said at least it is siezed in it's right spot and drilling it and getting it wrong could end up with me buying a new carb body. I'm gutted as I was going to fit one of those nify jitsie air screws. Has anybody else had difficulty with this carb ? I have to reluctantly accept it as jammed or risk drilling and ruining carb body which I can't afford to do.

Why not ? I'm sure at the time it was done the Beamish wasn't considered a classic. Who knew old twinshocks would become so saught after and valuable. I once grafted a TY175 engine into an XL185 chassis. Why did I do it ? I don't know but I enjoyed doing it and I was only 17 at the time. I even entered an enduro on it. It was only the exhaust and silencer that let me down as it was too narrow and smothered power. The silencer I actuallly made myself from scratch. Creating and modifying is a learning curve. I think we should respect peoples home made efforts rather than mocking them. Why don't people post more photos of their efforts on this site ?

I agree, definately blocked jets. Remove the float bowl and go to someone with compressed air and put an air line through. Holes are so small you dont want to jam any wire in them.

Nice job mate. Really like your work. Let me know how it rides.

Wd 40 is great. Carefull using it near rubber as it causes rubber to swell. Gaz

To be fair. Your first question you posed was ''Who is the Sportsman class really aimed at?''. My post was a response to this question. To summarise my thoughts in a brief synopsis 'people should ride whatever class they want to ride'. I had read what you had said and yes i did get it.

I don't know if you've got an evo or rev 4t but my rev 4t is four turns out. Hope this helps.

Im probably going to annoy everybody here but I think people should just be allowed to ride whatever route they wish. It's up to them. For god sake they are paying to ride so let them have that choice. Who cares if they win or not ? It's not affecting how you ride your own bike is it ? Trials (and sport in general) isn't just about winning or losing. It's about having fun on your bike. So if somebody wants to clean every section to get their sense of achievement well let them do so. At the same time encouragement should be given to somebody who has stepped up a class and is going round with a scorecard of 5's and 3's. It's an old cliche but 'its the taking part that counts'. Our club has a good plicy that if you win your class, the year after you can only compete in the same class on a non award basis. That way, for those people who gain pleasure from polishing trophies who didn't win, they get to have a better chance of winning silverware the next time.

New plug put in immediatly afterwards allready

Good advice everybody. I hope it is the carb as it is a cheap and easy fix. I have changed the killswitch for a yamaha one.

it's an 08. No I haven't cleaned the carb for a while. Perhaps that should be my first port of call. I would expect it to splutter with carb problems. It just died in seconds as if someone had turned the engine off. Airbox is cleaned every outing