gazzaecowarrior

If your forks are sticking down either they are bone dry or bent. Your fork slider may have taken an impact and the only way you can tell is to take it off and shine a torch down it and look for any high spots. Most engineers with a lathe could restore this for you. Rolling the fork leg along a flat surface will tell you if it's bent. Again if it is bent this can easily be corrected by a specialist. Best of luck. Gareth

Hi Guys Good news. Bike started first kick. Runs sweet as a nut again. It must have been the carb. Thank god I don't have to do those crank seals as I was dreading that job. Thanks for all your advice. Until the next time !!!!!!! Gareth

Thanks Tony. just stripped the carb down and I think you could definately be onto something. The inline fuel filter seemed full of some white stuff and inside the float bowl seemed rather sticky. I have a horrible feeling that this is some sort of fibreglass residue from a new tank. Perhaps I hadnt flushed it through as much as I should have. The jets didn't seem too bad but I have blown them all through as a matter of course and reset the float hieght. Im going to empty the tank in case it is contaminated and put some fresh fuel in and see how it goes. I will sadly have to wait for a gasket as it is damaged beyond repair when I took it out. I will keep you posted as to my success.

Thanks for everybody's input. Well i shall strip the carb down and have a look. I have ordered a new reed block gasket so will have to wait for that till I fire it up. Would a blocked jetcause it to run so hot though ? I must confess I have forgottten how hot the cyclinders get on air cooled bikes having owned modern bikes for so long. It did seem rather hot considering it had been running so long. Also if the crank seals have gone. What are the symptoms ? Gaz

Right. Thanks for that. I will give that a go. But I would be suprised as there is a fuel fliter in line. I use the same filter on my beta and i have never had any trouble witht the carb. But if it saves me pulling the engine apart again it can only be worth a try !!!

Hi there. Thanks for your response. Yep, I am pretty certain the carb is set up right. I have fitted a new carb overhaul kit to it so all is as good as it can get there. The tap is brand new as I have fitted a Sammy miller seat and tank combo unit. I fitted an in line fuel filter too so I can see that fuel is running. The bike was running before I redid the gears / selector arm only this week. I had done a few laps up the street to ckeck the gears were all in sync. I am just suprised how the seals has gone so quickly ? I am struggling to work out what else it could be ?

After spending a bloody whole week getting the gears nicely synchronised with no more phantom neutrals I was so looking forward to taking my bike for it's maiden run up the woods. Fired it up ok but it will only run with choke in and when the choke is off it soon dies. I spoke to the nice chap at TY trials and he said it sounds like the crank seals have gone. I just can't understand how they have gone so quickly as I had taken it for a quick rip up the street and it was running nicely but perhaps it was a bit hot. There doesnt seem to be any oil in the flywheel. Could it be anything else ? It feels like a air leak. Does anybody put any additional gasket sealant between the reed valve assembly and the inlet stub ? I have ordered new crank seals but I was just wondering if anybody thought it could be anything else before I take the engine apart again !!!! Gareth

The Cooper rack is good. I've had mine for years with no problems. The weight of the bike stops it from bouncing out as does how you strap the bike on. I strap the left side of the bike (closest to the bumper) on first with a strap from the yoke down to the strap loop on the towbar bracket. I then strap the right side of the bike on by hooking the straps through the frame and hookning it round the other strap loop on the towbar bracket. When you tighten this strap it pulls down on the bike which in turn pulls the bike away from the car and compresses the suspension. Use good straps as if it comes loose you have got big problems. Best of luck. Gaz

Spoke to the man at TY trials. He said it could be the linkage or maybe the gear selector arm and drum. He thinks if there is play in the linkage it could be that. Just had a look at it and there is a bit of movement before it feels like you can feel the spring. But how much is normal ? My Beta has now play whatsoever.

Hi alan. Thanks for the advice. Strangely enough I've put ATF in it. I use it in my Beta and it is amazing. I think it is more mechanical this problem rather than oil but you may be right. I am going to give the TY shop a ring tommorow and seek their advice. The bike is running so nicely since I rebuilt the top end. My TY 175 that I had as a kid never sounded as nice as this but at least it changed gear !!!! You can't have evrything I suppose. Gareth

Hi Andy Thanks very much for that. What they describe in that section is exactly what I am experiencing. Symptom wise they are spot on. When I was rebuilding the engine I stripped that section down and repacked it with greese. To be honest it didn't look to badly worn so I am not 100 percent sure this is the cause of my problem. Could it be anything else ? What about on the other side of the engine where the selector rod engages the gears ? Gareth

Hi there. Just reassembled my ty175 after fitting a new top end and clutch. Took it for a quick spin and allthough the engine sounds sweet as a nut, there appears to be a neutral gear between 2nd and 3rd gear and possibly another one after fourth. Before I rebuilt the top end and clutch I can't say what the gears were like as I bought the bike as a non runner so this is the first time I've taken it for a spin. Anybody got any idea what the problem cold be. I must confess I have limited experience of gearboxes. Is it just a case of adjusting or is it more serious ? Your help would be most welcome. Gareth

Bike up and runnng again. New pads fitted. Pistons moving freely. No evidence of binding. Thanks or all your help. Until the next time !!!!! Gaz

Right then. Thanks for all your advice. After a lot of pumping and clamping and bleeding and more pumping all four pistons now seem to be moving. Ive bought new pads to fit on re assembly. Do you think there would be anything gained from using a rubber friendly silicone spray to coat the pistons before putting the pads in ?

Stork. That seems like a good idea. I am off work tommorow so I will have a whole day to dedicate to the calipers. I have done a bit of reading and one idea that sounded good was to restrict the movement of the piston that moves freely by maybe a small clamp and this in effect should force the other ones to move. I think i just need to have a good fiddle with it to free them up. I will let you know my outcome. I may have welded on the rear end of my ty175 by the end of the day if I get really wound up !!!!

Cheers for that. They should all move in unison though shouldnt they ?

Thanks for all your responses. The pads have about 3mm wear left in them so may need changing. I still think the pistons are a bit seized. All four do not move simultaniously. In fact one doesnt move at all. Spoke to lampkins and they said use wd40 and just spray, push them back, spray, push them back until they free up. One of them feels bloody stiff. Any more advice ? How easy are the pistons to get out, clean properly and then put new seals on them ? I know drum brakes were bad but at least they were easy to maintain !!!!!

Hi there. Was practicing today and the rear wheel started to lock up. I thought it may just be the high temperatures and me using the rear brake a lot or that the connceting push rod into the master cylinder did not have enough free play. So I unbolted and adjusted the push rod to give it a bit more free play but the brake still binds. Took the bike home as it was unrideable and had a quick inspection. I bled the system and all appears normal with no aor in the fluid but it continues to bind. I think there may be a slight squelching sound coming from the master cylinder when the pedal is pushed but I dont know if that is normal. Could it simply be that the pistons are a bit siezed up in the calipers ? Any advice would be appreciated before I go ordering parts. The bike was fine when I rode it on the weekend so there hasn't been a gradual build up of a problem. Gareth

They are often on e bay so keep your eyes peeled. I saw them on there only this week. Just search 'ty175' and everything comes up. You can allways get them shotblast and powdercoated if they are a bit battered. Best of luck !!!

Does anybody know whether those little 12 volt tyre inflators on e bay for

That was great. I was born in that year. Lovely to see a TY in top level competition.

Fairplay Jason you did. I am just too tight to drive up to Caerphilly !!!! Cheers anyway !!!

I am probably going to anger a lot of people by saying this but I would just bang a tube in there. Not everybody has the time to spend hours taking tyres on and off, then off and on again etc etc whilst trying to achieve that perfect seal. I put a tube in my beta six months ago and have never looked back. I practice twice a week and compete fortnightly and still no punctures. Run tyre on between 3 and 4 psi dependant upon conditions. A tube in a tubeless tyre serves a different function to a tube in a tubed tyre and will behave differently.

Thanks for the advice guys. I will give the burning idea a go rather than the caustic soda. Fortunately I'm a nurse so if it all goes wrong and I end up on a burns unit at leat I should get good treatment !!! Gareth

Going to dekoke my steel TY175 exhaust. Anybody know the ratio or quantities of caustic soda to water that should be used ? Regards Gareth